"perfectly stiff" while tuning

[MnFn]

Daniel,
Very good post.  My experience as well, although with wood arrows.  With my 53# Blacktail I started climbing in spine to get rid of "weak" indications.  I went all the way up to 78-80# spine and it shot ok at times. I am now convinced I was getting false readings also.

I started shooting some other bows at the time.   I was shooting quite often, almost every day.  After a while I got the Blacktail out with the 78# arrow.  At about twenty to twenty five yards I could see it drifting left.  I picked up that from the Ken Beck video.  I think with all the shooting my form was just getting better.

I started going weaker and weaker with spine.  I ended up shooting a 62-64# spined Sitka Spruce with my Blacktail - about 15# less.   A CE150 with 260 up front also worked well.  Both of which shot well out of a 51# Shrew.  I should have figured it out sooner, I guess.

[Jock Whisky]

Daniel I ran your setup thru Stu Millers spine calculator and as you discovered the .350 showed too stiff. It didn't have Black Eagle Outlaws listed so I used BE Carnivors.
You might want to try this tool to get you in the ballpark for new arrows if you go that way. It works well for me. After I come up with what Stu considers the correct setup I fine tune it with bare shaft and paper tuning. I usually don't have to adjust very much at that stage.

Good luck

[pdk25]

Well, Daniel and I talked about this some. I just got an RER LX that scales 61# @ 29.5", and I draw just a little over 29".  I figured that there was no way that 400 spine would be too stiff.  I finally got a nock set on a string, and the bow was noisy, no matter what I did, and I could actually smell the rest after the shot.  Started notice wear on the rest and the shelf.  I had to back it down to 500 spined shafts bareshafted with 275 grains up front to get it not to hit the shelf.  Then the noise was gone.  Still got a little work to do, but I sure am surprised with the results.  

I have another story now, of a recurve that I killed some animals with a few years ago before retiring it.  It is a pretty high performance recurve cut 3/16" past center and 63# @ 29".  Back then, I was shooting 31" 300 spine shafts with 300 grains up front.  I took it out the other day to bareshaft it, and I was all over the place.  Thinking that my form may have changed, I intentionally overdrew the bow to 30", and still all over the place and stiff.  I had to back it down to a 400 spined shaft with 250 grains up front.

I know that I have to go back to the drawing board with some of my other setups now, but it I hard when you have had a lot of success with them.  Guess I need to quit crying and get to it.  Should have taken Shawn Leonard's advice years ago.

[screamin]

I have had bows, all around the same weight, that shot 500 spined arrows like bullets, while the next bow with that same arrow it was flying nock left sideways by the time it reached the 20 yard target. Needless to say these arrows miss the target completely to the right. Some liked a 400, 350 and even 300, it just depends on the bow. I do think it is in everyones best interest to have a few of each spine laying around so you can test from the beginning.

[Jeff G]

Now you got me thinking about it haha.

I agree with screamin. I think next time I will pick up one of each spine to have around. Leave them full length and have on hand for testing purposes to see where to start.

[Al Dean]

Coach B,  No you are not getting a false weak.  You are probably weak with a 400.  I shoot a GT trad 55-75 31" standard insert 145 point out of a 46@30 Tiburon and a PMA 46@30 with a 30" draw and yes it is perfect bare shaft, no false weak.

[CoachBGriff]

Thanks Al!

My next dilemma is that I'm getting ready to order a new bow and I would love to be able to shoot the same shafts, but I doubt if it'll happen.  

I may just have to go to a different point weight - I hate to wasted a bunch of good arrows, but I know that it's not likely my new bow will shoot exactly the same as my Dorado.

[hybridbow hunter]

I discover that few years ago as well. I draw past 31" and use .300 with 300+ gr point on full length shaft out of low 60# recurves.
Out of my toelke Lynx longbow 60# at my draw I use .400 and 250 gr point, with the recurve limbs 58# .340 and 350 gr point, as bow window with the pad is little out of center. Along with spine reduction i lowered my knocking point.

[Caughtandhobble]

Daniel, I have to ask; what type of tuning (paper, bare shaft, broadhead) were you doing with the heavy spine arrows?

[Broken Arrows]

So I am shooting a Super Shrew 62@29" what spine shaft would you say will work I do like the skinny shafts. I do get good flight but not every shot which is more than likely me. I am using 340 cut to 29" with 100gr inserts and 150gr up front. from what is here they are to stiff.

[Caughtandhobble]

Originally posted by Broken Arrows:
So I am shooting a Super Shrew 62@29" what spine shaft would you say will work I do like the skinny shafts. I do get good flight but not every shot which is more than likely me. I am using 340 cut to 29" with 100gr inserts and 150gr up front. from what is here they are to stiff.

Nobody can really tell but you. Try paper tuning, bare shaft tuning or broadhead tuning and then and only then will the guess work be taken out of the equation.

[tracker12]

Originally posted by atatarpm:
1st my thanks to Moebow, Bisch, And others to numerous to mention.
1st arrow 175 spine 33 inches 315grs. up front
2nd arrow 300 spine 30 inches 315grs. up front
There have been no bow adjustments. Both arrows hit exactly the same;  bare shaft the same and paper tune the same. The only thing I can think here is that the dynamic spine is the same for both.  Any thoughts.

I have found that you can put together all kinds of combo's to get good flight.  Kind of drove me crazy.  Now start with the brand and model arrow I want figure out what finished weight I want then figure what spine will work.

[DanielB89]

Originally posted by Caughtandhobble:
Daniel, I have to ask; what type of tuning (paper, bare shaft, broadhead) were you doing with the heavy spine arrows?

I always bareshaft first