Re-fletching aluminum arrows

[WhitetailHtr]

Would somebody be kind enough to walk me through the proper steps in re-fletching aluminum arrows.  They currently have old vanes on them, but the shafts are in perfect condition.

I'd rather do it right the first time, so advice from you experienced craftsmen is much appreciated.

Thanks.

1. Use a knife to scrape off old fletching and all the glue you can.

2. Use steel wool to get rid of any glue residue left.

3. Wipe down shaft with 91% isopropyl alcohol or acetone.

4. Get feathers that match your fletching jig (right wing to right wing, and left wing to left wing)

5. Put feather in fletching jig clamp.

6. Put Shaft in jig.

7. Put glue on feather quill.

8. Put clamp on jig so that the feather rests on the shaft.

9. Wait about 20 minutes (if using Fletchtite Platinum glue) and repeat the above process for feathers 2 & 3.

Bisch

[WhitetailHtr]

Thanks, Bisch.  Really appreciate the expertise.

Removal and cleaning is what I needed clarified.  Thanks again!

[Archie]

Bisch forgot #10:  Shoot!

I do the same as Bisch, except I scrape off old fletching and remnants with a knife, then soak the fletching end in a dedicated can of acetone until clean.  I wipe them with a paper towel, and if they squeak while wiping, I know they're clean.  Have been doing exactly this for 20+ years.  When fletching aluminum, I use Fletch-tite, and I dip in Fletch-laq before doing the fletching process.  May be unnecessary, but by doing this I absolutely never have problems with feathers coming off.

[Bowwild]

Same as Archie for me.

I only wish carbons were this east for me.  Aluminum are a piece of cake.

Be sure to:
1. Keep glue area clean and free of finger oils.
2. The isopropyl must be 91% - rubbing alcohol has other ingredients and will leave white film and poor contact.

I use 15 second setting glues because I'm impatient but they work great.

Been fletching and reflecting since the 1970's and used to reflect my local NASP school's arrows until the job got bigger than I could handle.

[The Whittler]

Also remember after you clean your arrows do not touch the arrows where you are applying feathers.

The oil from your hands sometimes makes it impossible for the feathers to stick. Good luck it's real easy.

[WhitetailHtr]

Thanks to everyone!  There is nothing like the voice of experience to help a guy get on the right path.

Really appreciate your time and thoughts here.  I'm looking forward to this project.  I discovered about 2 dozen shafts in great condition that I had stashed away from "days gone by"!

Who the heck doesn't need more arrows?!  Never have enough!

[ron w]

I don't know how old the shafts are.....but check the nocks to see if they are brittle. If so replace them first. Then proceed as stated above.

[Pete McMiller]

I agree, clean up, acetone, etc.  After you have fletching attached and glue is dry then put on a dab of glue on the front and rear of the feather.  After that is dry run a bead along both sides of each feather.  Yes, it might be overkill BUT I never have fletching come off - aluminum or carbon.

[M60gunner]

I second what Ron said about the nocks. If the vanes are that brittle I would bet the nocks are brittle as well. I keep a small can of Fletch-Laq thinner on hand to remove old glue. I use 0000 steel wool and the thinner. I like bright colors so bought a bunch of wraps in the bargin bin at box store. Makes refletching easy for me. Glue comes up with the wrap when I apply my heat gun to it.

[BWallace10327]

Sometimes arrow wraps will improve feather adhesion.  Aluminum isn't porous like carbon and I don't believe as strong of a bond can always be had.

[mike g]

I do the same as Bisch.
Except I use fletching tape.

[Downwind Lefty]

I also put a little dab at the front of each feather so it holds better when passing through a target.

[Hud]

I would soak the fletch, put in a large bucket with water and Liquid Dawn, wait for the feathers to fall off.

Dry the shafts and clean any glue off with a knife, or drywall knife. Careful not to damage the shaft.

If you want to paint, use Bohning for a cap dip
but first clean shafts with Ajax powder and water to remove an hand grease. If you are not going to cap dip, still clean with Ajax. Aircraft industry uses it, and Easton recommends. Bohning requires their thinner, it is not the same as ordinary lacquer. Use in a ventilated area. Per their instructions. Don't use regular lacquer to paint. An enamel might work.

Fletch using Bohning Fletch Tite with or without paint.

[NY Yankee]

A really sharp knife will dig in and scratch the finish on an aluminum arrow. I use a "dull" utility knife and just work a half inch section at a time. Dull slides on the surface but still cuts the glue. I have an arrow done in 5 min.