I had an idea tonight to help retain points on woodies.

[bowhuntingrn]

This has probably been done before, but I've never seen it, so I thought I'd share. First off, I believe preparation / cleaning of the field tip / broadhead is the most important step in keeping them where you put them. Followed very closely by quality hotmelt. That being said, I'm always trying to come up with a better mousetrap. My thought was that inserts for carbon and aluminum have grooves that gives the glue a place to get a good hold on an otherwise smooth surface. So why not put a couple of shallow grooves on the taper. I know technically it could weaken the taper, but with a steel sleeve over it I wouldn't think it would be a huge issue. Just to be sure, I coated the grooves with water thin super glue to seal / reinforce.
 

[calgarychef]

When my heads come loose it's always from the metal never the wood because it's rough and porous and accepts the glue well.

[Bud B.]

I have gone to two part epoxy...just so I have more time to true the points/BHs. Heat still loosens the epoxy. It stinks when hot, though.

[Orion]

I've used a file handle tip to scrape/cut circular grooves on the inside of  field points.  This helps, too, but not really necessary if the points are cleaned first.  Agree with calgary.  Wood is already porous enough to hold the glue.

[monterey]

My points stay on with no problems.

My only prep is to heat field points very hot to clean them up.  Broadheads, NO!  Too easy to harm the temper.  They are only shot at foam or game and none have ever come off.

With utmost respect for your search for perfection, I'll suggest that if you have a problem keeping points on it may be a glue issue.  I use ferr l tite with no problems.  Once I tried the crafter type glue used by hobbyists and it didn't work at all.

[CRS]

I have always used sandpaper to score the shaft and point.

Do not know if it helps or not, seems losing points is part of the game.

[Dale in Pa]

Like you mentioned, I think the prep is key and like Calgary mentioned, it seems the glue bonds well to the shaft, but not to the metal point.

What I started doing was taking my dremel with a small stone or diamond bit and running it around and around inside the taper to rough it up before cleaning and glueing. Really seems to make a difference.

[joe ashton]

Good idea... thanks for sharing...

[Vintage45]

I just run a 5/16th tap inside a 11/32 point. It scores it nicely. I very seldom lose a point.

[kat]

Hey Marty- Never heard of that before. I like it.

[Jmatt1957]

Good idea..

[TSP]

1.)  Clean inside of point with a Q-tip dipped in alcohol.
2.)  Make sure the wood taper fits the point well, then rough up the taper a bit with a file for good surface adhesion.
3.)  'Dry spin' the point TIGHTLY onto the taper first to true it up to the shaft.  Then remove it, put glue on the taper and 'spin' the point on for good.  Spinning the point as you mount it helps distribute the glue evenly.  I prefer to use 2-part epoxy...very strong, easy to apply.  BTW, don't wipe off the extra glue that squeezes out when spinning the points on.  Just use your fingertips to smooth the glue an inch or two down the shaft below the point as you slowly rotate the shaft the shaft.  This avoids wasting glue and strengthen's the shaft considerably just behind the point...where it is mostly likely to break.
4.)  Optional...once point is mounted and dry, drill a tiny brad-size horizontal hole through the base of the point and completely through the shaft.  Insert a snug-fitting brad through the hole so that it protrudes on both sides, to pin the point to the shaft.  Cut the brad flush on both sides and finish up with a dab of epoxy around the brad ends to provide a smooth finish/transition.

With this method I doubt many of your points will come off.

[Pat B]

Also, if you run a tap in the point socket it will help hold the head on. When I have heads come loose it is from the head and not the wood.

[M60gunner]

A good idea. Looks like it will help. I use one of those brushes from 3Rivers to clean inside of point. Wish the screw on field point system from Germany was not so pricey. Screw on with hot melt, wonder if we would lose any points then?

[Sam McMichael]

I have never worried about it, because I don't have many points come off, even in cold weather. Using regular hot melt allows me to easily remove points when I choose, as opposed to using epoxy or super glue. However, it seems that slight grooves might give more surface area for the hot melt, which should make a stronger bond. I might try it.

[bowhuntingrn]

I've always used a bore brush and 91% alcohol on the inside of tips. Very rarely had an issue unless impacting a hard object (which I'm generally NOT shooting at). I did just get one of the point brushes from 3Rivers that chucks up in your drill. Man it will clean up a point in a hurry. Not to mention leaving some fine grooves for the glue to grab hold of. Like I said...just always trying to build a better mousetrap...I have been accused of overthinking things occasionally too.    

[Caughtandhobble]

I don't shoot wood arrows much due to the points are always coming off in my targets. Seems like a very good idea to me, I'll give it a try.

Thanks,
Ben

[snag]

Be careful with the tapered brushes. If you apply to much pressure or leave it in the field pt too long it can burnish the exsisting lines already in the pt.  It will buff it up real smooth. Not good. The biggest thing is to remove the oily residue in the pts.

[NY Yankee]

Never needed it but, whatever works best for you.

[tod becker]

Like Monterey, I heat my heads first. I use a propane torch and have both hands free. One heating the hot melt on the shaft and the other holding the tip with my nocking pliers. I think the flame burns out any oil or paint. I have never had a fail using this method.