Arrow Selection

[tsimo25]

Currently my son is using a red oak pyramid bow i made him that maxes out at 20lbs at 24 inches and mine is a maple mollegabet short bow that maxes out at 47lbs.  I have maple and ash to make longer bows and that is on the horizon.  He is working on  the finish sanding of his next also pyramid style which should finish out close to 30lbs.  

I want to be able to make sure that we are safe as we move forward and try new styles and lengths.  Though I am tall and can use a big bow with a heavy draw I gravitate towards a smaller bow.  I want something that can be used for turkey and goose.

[Bladepeek]

I think you will find that distance from center of the sideplate will have a huge effect. If you have no shelf and are shooting off your thumb, you will need a really weak spined arrow. If you get a cut closer to center with a shelf, the spine will need to be a bit stiffer.

I'm currently shooting some full length (30") CE 75s which are spined around .670 with 145gr points out of a 46# longbow and .600 spine GT1535s out of most of the rest of my bows with 175gr points. All of these bows are cut very close to center. If I go up to .500 spine 3555s @ 30", I need at least 200gr up front.

[tsimo25]

I do cut in the handle to get as close to center as possible and add a shelf.  I see your point though and never thought of it from that perspective.  This is only year 2 for us so it has been a learning experience.

[tsimo25]

Thanks all for the help and advise!

[Sam McMichael]

When I make an errant shot with wooden arrows, I hold them lightly near the end of the shaft and tap the arrow on something solid like limb or rock. Usually, if it has a crack, I will feel a vibration or hear a rattle in the shaft.