Well Gang, thanks to Darren for posting the pictures of the the modified Howard Hill broadheads. Note the picture of both modified and the original Hill broadheads side by side. First notice on the original the ferrule stops short of where the Magnus ferrule ends, giving more strength to the head. Next notice how slim the modified head is on the 5/16ths carbon arrow, I used the small diameter shaft to show how small the ferrule and combination are. Next I would like to point out, before installing blade into the ferrule, sharpen the head razor sharp, there are many methods of doing this, it is your choice, however I use a cratex large wheel and buffing rouge on a large fast moving buffing wheel. Using light srokes back and forth, turning head to keep things even, until satisfied with the edge! Next to this is most important, I use a black magic marker to color the whole blade, especially the sharpened edges, as this helps prevent the rust from starting. then it is instaledd in the Magnus ferrule, Now this for me is absolute, I install the whole assembly so the blade is inline with the string when arrow is nocked,I am an instinctive shooter, if the broadhead is mounted horizontal and the sunlight hits it, my eye is drawn to the broadhead and off the the intended spot I want to hit! Note that using the black marker it covers the trailing edge of broadhead, so that at full draw the thin black line is not visible or distracting from my spot, I am going to hit. My focus is uninterupted by the flash of the broadhead in sunlight. Well guys the you have my rendition of a Howard Hill broadhead for carbons and aluminum alike. Also note the trailing edge of blade is approximately 1 inch longer than the ferrule, so you will have to have your arrows 1 inch longer, so you will have finger clearance between back of bow and the trailing edge of broadheads. This make this set up so strong and wont twist while in use on game animals large and small. Good luck, shoot straight,Jacques