HH bug got me ... Part One!

[Berliner]

Well David, fortunately the German language never got a universal language.....

Back to topic:
I have the opportunity to buy a used Jerry Hill Wildcat. With the specs 68" 65@28 (around 70# at my draw). Would use it primarily as a strength training bow.
I do shoot a Jerry Hill Stalker deluxe and it`s fun.
Any thoughts / opinion on the Wildcat?

[louislucido]

Does any one know if any of the shultz boy's are building bows?  

[Brianlocal3]

Question,
Is the toelke super d a straight limbed AFB or a mild d/r.?  I ask because I don't think I have seen one on this thread.

[WidowEater]

The Super D is a Hill style bow.  A few will be bringing them to the Hill Hog Hunt.

[WESTBROOK]

Have you tried nocking above the nock point?

Thanks Matt, it just solved my nagging issue.

My never ending problem has always been getting just the slightest kick tail up, barely noticeable most of the time, but with a BH on the front it will drive it about a foot low.

I was out tweaking some arrows today and they are getting near perfect, but every once in a while I would notice one bumping up  just a hair, although  they were shooting great otherwise(I knew what a BH would do). Figured I'd try tweaking my nock point, then said what-the-heck, and moved my Frog tape nock pt down below the nock and Viola..Perfect. So I think I'm a nock over guy from here on.

Eric

[Brianlocal3]

Widow, thanks

[Overspined]

Hey Eric,

   glad you found what worked for you!  I tried to resist it, but I just get cleaner arrow flight nocking over the nock point.  I make my strings so the nocks fit snug and it helps to ease into it.  Another thing I found useful is shooting cock feather in (I shoot RH and RW).  There have been very long threads on both of these issues, but with my Hill bows I find these especially useful to get perfect arrow flight.

[dragonheart]

I also have found that the arrows shoot better with  the nock set below the arrow nock.  On my current bow, Sunset Hill, the bottom of the arrow nock is 1/2" above center and shooting clean flight.  I believe that many archers do not get the tail end of the arrow up high enough to get the quills to clear the shelf.  Nock set height is a personal thing, the goal is getting the arrow flying and hitting where you are looking.

[30coupe]

I've tried the nock on top and just can't seem to make it work for me. I guess after about 50 years of shooting with the arrow under the nock set, I don't really need to change. If it works for you, go for it. Traditional archery is so personal, there is really no wrong way as long as it works.

[dragonheart]

Originally posted by 30coupe:
I've tried the nock on top and just can't seem to make it work for me. I guess after about 50 years of shooting with the arrow under the nock set, I don't really need to change. If it works for you, go for it. Traditional archery is so personal, there is really no wrong way as long as it works.

On recurves I shoot the arrow under the nock.  Go figure, it is what works for you.

[swampthing]

Read "HTHWay" the other day, again. Reading the part on broad heads. Howard explains the BH should be a MAXIMUM of 150g.          
       Now, as he aged and settled into 75# bows think about it for a minute. 75-80# cedar and a 150g head. Makes a 600g arrow. That would be a reliable middle of the road weight for that spine class weight. 8-gpp
       If one shot, say, 45-50# with a 150g head they would be lobbing 525g shafts. 11-gpp rainbow brights
    The shafts are a bit lighter in this spine range so to keep arrow balance in line with this weight class say we drop down to 100-125g heads for approx. 450g arrows, lighter spine, point, still tail tapered, etc etc..
   Now I know 100g equals 1/4oz, an absolutely humungous load, I still would not let anyone shoot it at me!
   Well I did it, custom Dremel tool 100g heads. Much, Much better brush arrow. Nice and flat, plenty of smack.   :cool:

[Brianlocal3]

I love the post you just made Swamp. I do not care for that heavy load up front in my arrows. I shoot 125-145 grain head and I love the trajectory, nor am I worried one iota about if it will penetrate or not. I know it will.

My single bevel Hills with the back cut off makes them 145 to 150 grains and barbed, depending how often they have been resharpened. My super heavy arrows for whitetail deer days ended the day I shot a 420 grain cedar tipped with a 140 grain Hill head through a large doe with a 37 pound Hill longbow.

[Ben Maher]

My arrow weight varies depending on material and/or species of wood ... but i sure have shoot through an awful lot of critters with 500-520gn arrows

[toddster]

For me, I have experimented a little with different weight shafts and heads.  I am shooting mainly my sunset Hill at 49#.  My arrow weigh's in at 530 grains, with a broadhead at 125 grains.  I know it is plenty to penatrate, but put on some 165 grain broadheads and the arrow flight was alot better.

[Bob B.]

Toddster,

I agree with your post.  I shoot woodies and have a long draw, hense my arrows are a bit heavy.  All my hill bows really like shafts between 10 and 11.5 gpp.  My shrew hill loves my arrows the weigh in at 597 grains including my 125 to 145 grain broad heads.  I am shooting 55 pounds, so that comes in at 10.8 gpp.  I still find it is pretty flat and my flight is very good, with speeds in the low 160's.  I know I could boost my performance if I shot a 520 grain carbon arrow.  I am very happy with the heavier slower woodies however.  I guess it just depends on what makes a guy happy.

Bob.

[swampthing]

It's all about spine. Get that right, arrows fly great.  If your "light ones" are spine'ed right, I think you would like how they fly also. With a 125g tipped woodie at 500g.... adding a 160g head makes a 535g arrow, doesn't sound like much, but go look at what happens to your point on, and midrange trajectory, more than the 3-4fps loss would suggest. If they fly better you were to stiff to begin with.

[Magwa45]

Anybody out there have a Howard Hill Archery take down bow? Just wondered if those pull apart sleeves work well. I am thinking about getting a shorter bow and maybe moving up 5-10 lbs.

Also, how do you get those Howard Hill Broadheads sharp? I was working on a few last night with a file and this is a bit of a job.

[Ben Maher]

Don , I have had several Hill T/D's ... it is still my preferred method of making a 2 piece bow ...strong as a bull and will last forever . I like several of the others but the brass sleeve is still my fave !

[David Mitchell]

Ditto what Ben Maher said.  That sleeve system works perfectly and is bomb proof.