khard, here is a forgiveness test that did. I got me a 52" recurve, I always liked the idea of having a bow that I could shoot easily from any position. I found that, after playing with the nocking point all over the place, would get one good flying arrow and then two or three bad ones. I tried many different arrows, and to get good predictable flight, I absolutely had to strait wrist the handle with no finger pressure at all. then just to find that if I tried a faster shot, my arrows would whip out of the bow off the mark by more than just a few inches at 18 yards. I tried three under and had to push the nock up a ways. then I added a feather rest, I thought i had it. Then, when I went to shoot with a little better tempo and backed up to 25 yards, about 20 degrees up and right of my garage there is a hole up by the power line leading out to my garage, about 28 degrees that same direction there is a hole between the two windows on the second floor of my house. The problem was I pulled too hard with my middle finger, lifted the arrow off the rest and let go. Frustated, i went in the house and got my 68" whip ended Half Breed from a Hill blank. I shot wood arrows from 55 to 75 pound spine, 1916, 1918 and 2018 eastons, and some carbon Alaskans, they all flew. Then I tried extremely rapid fire shooting and by accident, I snagged the string with my ring finger and ended up with just a ring finger release. The arrow flew pretty much the same as the others. Then i shot with the ring finger on purpose and found that it made virtually no difference in arrow flight. I grabbed that little recurve put the nock back to the split finger mark and shot with the ring finger, the arrow hit the rain gutter of my garage four feet above and right of my 7 foot by four foot target. One other forgiveness point. when I shoot with heavy gloves in very cold condition, all I need to do is to hold the grip lower and bridge up on the grip a little and the arrows still fly the same. If I am shooting with soft gloves and the squeezing of the bow makes the arrow ride up to an 1/8" or less, that makes no difference in where the arrows go. there is a lot of talk about that just perfect form, I am OCD about it myself, however, if you have a Hill dvd and play with the slow motion and the stop, you can catch Howard occasionally letting the arrow lag out a couple of inches from the bow before the arrow snaps out of sight, and he was still dead on target. Draw length forgiveness is important, we are not arrow drawing machines. My Grooves Spitfire recurve is very fast for its poundage, but changes in draw length from shot to shot are more visible with it than with my longbows. I should be out hunting this morning, my farmer friend gave me a bunch of doe tags, but I got no sleep, so i am up typing instead. i need a nap.