HH bug got me ... Part One!

[mikebiz]

New question guys.  I want to switch from carbon to wood.  Give me a hand.  I have a Miller Old Tom that I'm going to use as an example.  This bow is 40@28, but scales 35# at my 25" draw length.  I want to have one inch of clearance on the arrow.  So I guess I need a 27" shaft that, once tapered, will be 26" BOP.  What spine shaft do I need?  I figure 40-45 will work.  That seems to be the lowest wood spine range anyway.  I'd like to shoot around a 160 grain field point or broadhead.  And I would consider Surewood Douglas Firs or Hildebrand Sitka Spruce.  If you think one or the other would be better out of lighter weight bows tell me.  I have several bows in the 35-45 range and that's all I can handle with bum shoulders.  

If anything I've said doesn't make sense or is just plain wrong let me know.  Here to learn from the seasoned vets out there.  Thanks.

[emt137]

Mike- I shoot a 43# Cheetah at my 28" pull.  It likes a 40-45 spined arrow with 125gr point.  They are 29.5" BOP just because that's what I prefer. So I would think a 40-45 with that heavy of a point might be in the right ballpark.  Might have to fiddle a little this way or that way, but I think you'd be close.

That being said I'm sure someone will come along with all the proper +5# for this and -5# for that.  

Hope that helped you out.

[hvyhitter]

call your shaft supplier and explain what you need just like above and they may be able to send some test shafts. They all usually have shafts heavier and lighter in spine than whats on their website but dont list as there is not much of a demand.......

[Bud B.]

Check with Green, a sponsor here on TG, for his kids arrows. He has some spined in the 30 to 40lb range that just might be perfect for your bow.

[Overspined]

Anyone local you can get a shaft of the # you are looking for to monkey with?  I find that if you estimate spine using a formula, you will be close, but sometimes it's hard to get a shaft to be the exact length you want with the head wt you want.  If you are not opposed to a longer shaft, start a little conservatively on one spine grouping higher, and cut in increments as you tune to a head wt.  Or get a baseline and make educated guesses.  Basically experience helps and you will have a general understanding of what you need.  Buy a 1/2 dz of what you think will work, you can experiment and figure out what you really need.

[bicster]

I find with my HH bows that arrows with the spine range of my draw weight work great using 125 grain heads. My bow is 50# at my draw length and my arrows are 45-50 spine group. I always wind up cutting them to 28-29" BOP and using a 125 grain point. One other thing is I use tapered shafts. I may be wrong but the way of testing spine using the 26" and 2 pound weight method was developed using a 28" BOP arrow with a standard 125 grain point. As someone else mentioned, you need to do some experimenting to find the formula that works for you. My hardest decision is deciding what shafts to buy because I fall on the edge of two different spine groups.

[Overspined]

I really like the tapered shafts too, they just seem to come off the bow so smoothly.

I tell you one thing I've really been frustrated with lately, getting shafts that have grain runout.  When I buy tapered shafts from certain suppliers, I know that wont be an issue.  I have decided on one or two suppliers, and any others I have to purchase in person.  They bend too easy, break easier, and I'm wasting time and feathers and resources making shafts not good enough for hunting, and barely for punching paper.  I guess the bad shafts need a home, but not at mine.

Funny, the butcher shop found my griz broadhead and 6" of wood arrow in the shoulder of my deer.  They thought it was really cool and wouldn't give it back. They said "oh, you were the one with THAT broadhead".   I guess it's still quite uncommon for wood shafts to come through their shop...

[Ralphie]

Originally posted by mikebiz:
Any of you guys use a Howard Hill Archery Deluxe Armguard?  It's the one with the metal speed hooks.  I was wondering if it's easy/quick to cinch up and how you actually tie it off to keep it from loosening.  

   

I have and used for awhile, the deluxe HHA guard. It is only a piece of leather with holes,hooks, and a lace. After the string hit my arm once, leaving a welt, I had my shoemaker attach a length of leather to it to make it longer up the arm.
It is slow to take off and put on.
 I now use a Steve Catts/Leathersmith guard. It is made of a heavier and finer grade leather, is quicker to put on and take off, and covers more of the arm.
 
I use the HHA guard in the summer when I am putting it against a bare arm.
On mine I asked Steve to put vent holes.
Could not be happier !

[Overspined]

I make my own arm guards and just use the holes on the ends, and speed lacing on both sides for the rest of the eyelets.  Quick and easy on, off, and adjust.

[mikebiz]

So I think I'm going to try some Hildebrand tapered Sitka shafts in 11/32 (tapered to 5/16) or parallel 11/32 as my first foray into wood arrows.  Since I shoot lighter longbows I don't think I want the mass of Doug fir, so Sitka should be perfect.  Anyone shooting these from their Hills?  Anyone prefer tapered to parallel?  Let me hear the dirt on them.  Only heard good things so far and that Hildebrand is an A++ company.

[JohnI]

If you can get the weight you need Sitka is hard to beat and Hildebrand is the place to get them. Tapered should and probably do fly the best but personally parallels seem to fly just as good for me.

[mikebiz]

So I was fortunate enough to purchase an original John Lee bow from a TG member the other day.  Thanks Ralphie!!  It arrived on Tuesday night, but I finally got to shoot it this morning.  Working on form at 10 yards.  I'd say it's a pretty sweet.  Maybe my form is improving as well   :D  

 

[gio tundo]

Just bought a northern mist shelton from a member went out and shot it yesterday. Wow zero hand shock and a great shooter I can't wait to get in the woods with it.

[Brianlocal3]

Good job in the robin hood!!!

[Ralphie]

Mike,

The Robin Hood is with the Lee ?

I want it back !!

regarding arrows;
         I like Port Orford Cedar .... tapered
you will hear many different opinions about arrows. none more valid than the rest.
Good Luck with the Lee !

[JCJ]

Originally posted by Ralphie:
Mike,

The Robin Hood is with the Lee ?

I want it back !!

regarding arrows;
         I like Port Orford Cedar .... tapered
you will hear many different opinions about arrows. none more valid than the rest.
Good Luck with the Lee !

Ralphie:

I want the Miller Old Tom back!

Hah!

Jay

[Mudd]

I wish I had my Miller "old Tom" back as well.

God bless,Mudd

[Overspined]

I checked into Hildebrandt arrows, they are intriguing!  I think I'll get some for my next couple dz.  Sitka spruce  sounds like a great arrow material.

Also, I noticed they offer arrows down in the very low spine range and they are not kids arrows, but still very top quality.  I saw a few posts back folks were looking for low spine arrow shafts.

[WESTBROOK]

Matt, Hildedbrand's shafts are great(spruce & fir), you wont be disappointed.

Eric

[Ralphie]

There's an Old Tom, very beautiful,  on classifieds now