HH bug got me ... Part One!

[threeunder]

Well, thanks to you guys, this thread, and the Hill gang hog hunt thread, I bought a Northern Mist Classic off Limbolt about a month or 6 weeks ago.

I was getting frustrated with it.  The sideplate had a built out section on it.  One day I thought, "what the hay", and removed the build out material from underneath the plate.

What a different beast!  Shot and shot.

Fast forward to today.  I've been working out of town the past couple of weeks.  Today is my first day home.  Headed out to shoot.  I've got a few bows.  Several R/D longbows, couple of recurves which include a sweet new Kempf Kwyk Styk.

So what did I take out the door first?

You guessed it!  LOLOL....my NM Classic....WHAT HAVE YOU GUYS DONE TO ME!

I do have a question though.  Forgive me if it has already been covered, but I'm only to page 100 of this thread.

Question:  I hear many say shoot a heavy arrow from these bows.  I've got 3 setups worked out.
643 gr arrow @ 13.1 gr/lb
591 gr arrow @ 12.1 gr/lb
499 gr arrow @ 10.2 gr/lb

All 3 of these setups are flying great.  The lightest one is a little noisy on release, but the other 2 are whisper quiet.

When people talk about a heavy arrow for a Hill style bow....are we talking about greater than 10 gr/lb, greater than 12 gr/lb, greater than 15 gr/lb?

[David Mitchell]

Normally around 10 gr/lb up to maybe 12 grs.  No need to go higher.  That's a sweet bow....enjoy!  

[khardrunner]

I like between 9-10gpp. I know others like heavier, but I'm happy with the physics, the flight, and the quietness.

[Brianlocal3]

I'm with khard, 9to no more than 10gpp for me

[Ground Hunter]

If you are shooting from a tree then a heavy arrow may be your friend - thank you Sir Newton.  I stay on the ground and too heavy of an arrow does not suit me.  9 -10 gpp is all I'll go.  They still are stuck in the dirt on the off side.  I do shoot a heavier bow 70lbs.  So at 10 gpp I've already got 700 grains.  They come off the bow a bit angry.

[Rossco7002]

I'm down at 8 - 8.5 gpp. I really like the flat trajectory and I've still got more than enough weight for whitetails and turkey.

I'd even use this setup on our local black bears - but would probably bump up the weight and add a skinny carbon to the mix for moose.

[smoke1953]

I kinda fell for ash a few years back because of their toughness, weight and feel out of my HH style bows. In order to achieve some adequate FOC and shooting at my 58#'s I'm at 13gpp which serves me well for 25 yds and less. Little bit of a challange on the 3-D courses but you sure see the arch of the arrow.

[smoke1953]

I kinda fell for ash a few years back because of their toughness, weight and feel out of my NM Classic. In order to achieve some adequate FOC and shooting at my 58#'s I'm at 13gpp which serves me well for 25 yds and less. Little bit of a challange on the 3-D courses but you sure see the arch of the arrow.

[Overspined]

I started shooting shafts of ash, tough stuff, but the mass weight is just too much for me.  I also have had trouble getting shafts where there isn't a ton of grain run-out.  Does grain run-out even matter with ash?  

I use the arrow fix tool and foot cedar with ash, makes it really impact resistant. My foots are only about 3" from taper to tail. They look good, but don't look as nice as the four footed arrows, but I think they are much stronger.  The last batch of 4 foots were terrible, breaking about 2/3 up to where the foot was getting thin, EVERY ONE was weak.  The batch was from a reputable source too.

[bsv]

I have not had a Hill style yet,But reading this thread I'm real close.I have a question for ya,when canting a bow,is it done by turning your bow arm and hand or bending at the waist? or alittle of both? Thanks Burt

[ChrisM]

A little of both.  Google some pics of Howard Hill and Fred bear and study how they do it.

[bsv]

Thanks Cris, I'll do that

[Ground Hunter]

bvs - canting the bow is a rather natural thing.  Don't over think it.

[Bud B.]

Got some more done today...

 

This is my biggest quiver build to date and the heaviest leather used to date. I'm not a huge fan of the floppier leather used in some quivers.

After complete I'll soak it in water, but not drench it, and wear it while shooting so it'll preform before field use.

8.75" x 3.5" oval base with triple layer bottom for heavy BH resistance/durability. I have the strap cut and have cemented a softer pigskin leather to the side of the strap that'll contact my clothing. I'll sew it together.

This'n'll be around for a long time and will be handed down to a grandchild, if they're a lefty.

More later as I get'er'dun.

Hope everyone's Easter was good. I got to see alot of family today.  

<><

[Mudd]

That has to be one of the best looking quivers I've seen.

I have a question for you Bud.

Is the top portion machine stitched?

God bless,Mudd

[Bud B.]

Tippman Boss hand stitch machine that belongs to my Dad. He's had it about ten years.

Thanks for the kind words Roy.

Bud

[SportHunter]

The Quiver is looking great Bud. Nice work.

[58WINTERS]

Beautiful craftsmanship, very very nice!

[Bud B.]

Thanks Paul & Bob.

Got it finished.

Strap sewn.

 
 

In the dry

 

Soaked in warm water for forming

 


Taking some back bend shape

   


Beside my last quiver build for size comparison. Now to let it dry and then fine tune.

 
 

Nice work on the quiver. You could sell those, but I would bet the price would hit close to $400 to make it worth doing. With the to the back lacing, I wonder what the difference would be in use with the lap over going with the leather so the edge would be towards the strap side. If that edge would grab a wool jacket if one kicks the quiver up when going for an arrow, versus hanging up when dropping back to shooting position.