HH bug got me ... Part One!

[Overspined]

You won't go wrong with yew.  I have a Redman and love it, and a 1/2 breed w/ boo cores T/D for extra durability.  Both are sweet. The yew and Wesley both are smooth as silk. The 1/2 breed is 5# heavier but seems to really throw an arrow.

[Basil_K]

I was curious about a few things.

One was the benefits of a string follow bow. I heard it mentioned a few times but just wondering what kind of advantage it gives?

What I mean is if two bows were built with the same specs  but one was string follow, would one perform better than the other?

[Shinken]

Great story David Mitchell!

The destiny of that Hill longbow seems to have been fulfilled....

Enjoy!

Shoot straight, Shinken

   

[30coupe]

Originally posted by Basil_K:
I was curious about a few things.

One was the benefits of a string follow bow. I heard it mentioned a few times but just wondering what kind of advantage it gives?

What I mean is if two bows were built with the same specs  but one was string follow, would one perform better than the other?

This thread will give you some idea of what string follow gives.

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=114059#000000

[30coupe]

Originally posted by Dodger:
I am currently shooting a Bama Hunter but would like to have a more traditionl Hill style bow with narrow, deep cored limbs.

Grateful, if you could answer some questions.

1) Using the Hill style of shooting my draw length is 27". Would I be best served with a 66", 68" or 70" n-t-n longbow? I would like as much cast without compromising on stability.

2) I would like to give the straight wedge / teardrop shaped grip a try. Could someone who uses one post pictures showing how the bow is to be gripped. Pics from the rear three-quarters, finger tip side and front would really be appreciated.

3) If the strike plate was 1/4" before centre would it make the bow excessively fussy in terms of dynamic arrow spine?

Thanks.

Well, most of those questions are covered in this thread if you have a few days to read it. It really is worth the time.

As to you first, if you choose a string follow, you can use a 66" bow. Most would recommend 68" at your draw in a a straight limb or back set bow.

2) There are pictures in this thread of exactly what you are asking for. Maybe try a search to shorten your quest.

3) Yes, you will have to be closer to ideal spine if your bow is not cut to center. That said, it's not in the realm of the impossible. I've had better luck tuning wood and aluminum arrows for my Hill style bows (Shelton and hickory board bow) than I have with carbon. Center cut bows are less critical of spine, but you will still benefit from having exactly the right one. Non-center cut bows just have a narrower range of spines they like. Generally, slightly weaker is better. As they say, you mileage may vary.

[Ralphie]

re:
2) I would like to give the straight wedge / teardrop shaped grip a try. Could someone who uses one post pictures showing how the bow is to be gripped. Pics from the rear three-quarters, finger tip side and front would really be appreciated.

a superb thread on the proper grip.

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=005763;p=0

[Dodger]

30coupe: I have been reading this thread for close to a year now (or probably more) and know of the pics you are refering to but I cannot find them. However, Pavan, advised me to have a look at Hill's own videos and pictures and rightly so. I think I have a fair idea of how Hill gripped his bow now and will put it into practice once I get the bow. Thanks for the reply.

Ralphie: Thank you as well for the link.

[RAU]

Hi guys,
Just wondering if one of you guys could post a pic of one of your hill bows of of the back in the shelf handle area. Like a view from the target if ya know what i mean. Im trying to reproduce one. Just trying to see what the taper is from widest part of limb into handle. If you wanted to post the width of the back of the handle i wouldnt complain. Hopefully theres nothing wrong with this. I wouldnt think there is.  Thanks alot

Rau,
I have this one of Spanky's bows handy...can take some of my own from different angles if that'll help.

 

[30coupe]

Not that I don't love to see pictures of bows, but I find that I have to actually have the bow in hand and preferably shoot it some to know it's right for me. I suspect most folks will find the same thing. I have short fingers, so the distance from belly to back seems to be the most critical factor for me, no matter what style riser it is. Howard Hill was a big guy with very large hands. A bow that fit him perfectly would be unmanageable for me, though it may fit lots of other folks.

If you have a bow made for you, the bowyer will be able to size the grip to fit your hand, whether you choose a straight grip, a dished grip, or a locator grip. If you buy a used bow, you will have to be lucky or modify the grip to fit your hand, which is what I do. If the grip is too large, you can either pare it down yourself or send it back to the bowyer to be modified to suit you. Since Hill style bows generally have a leather grip wrap, a wide variety of modifications are possible, which, once the leather is applied, will be pretty much undetectable.

In spite of all that, please keep posting pictures of all these cool bows!

[Rik]

Regarding the question about the measurements on the large Howard Hill takedown sleeves. I have two bows with the large sleeves.

With fairly thick leather, they are two inches from belly to back, one and a half inches wide, and four inches tall. Super comfortable too.

Remember that you only need the large handle if your bow is over 75 pounds.

The smaller sleeves are even more comfortable to me, but my bows are too heavy for them.

Here are two photos of my newest take-down the day I received it, before and after I replaced the leather.

 

 

P.S. I am finishing up a new leather side quiver today. Pictures on the way. . .

[dragonheart]

Here is something I am trying with the rest side plate set up.  I was talking with Nate Steen about the side plates and discussing how Howard Hill did not shoot with one.  Nate is doing something really cool with the side plates on his bows now.  

I cut down a thin piece of calf hair and some on the  shelf that is trimmed.  The arrow is resting on the "wedge" and the circle side plate.

 
 
 

[khardrunner]

Some new pics of my Half Breed that I got back from Craig last week. Sure shoots nice now that he fixed it!

Click on the pics to make them bigger....

 

 

 

 

 

[Basil_K]

That's a awesome bow. I like the look of the halfbreed.

What did he do to fix it?

[swampthing]

Be careful Jeff, taking it from the side plate is fine, but taking too much off the bottom would change the arrow to center of bow relationship. i.e.; the arrow no longer would rest on the center, it would be "below center."   Howard's bows were built with that center shot taken into consideration, to put leather on after that would give back what he worked for. Most bows are made center shot with that leather on the bow...  or are they???????????????  

[khardrunner]

Basil, he had to fix a tiller and alignment issue with it. It was shooting terribly before that, but he corrected it. I love shooting it now!

[Basil_K]

The more I read the more I change my mind of what I want.

Before it was the Wesley special. Now I want the red man with a few extra features.


Lol now if only my wife wasn't the one who did the banking. No way I could hide the bow from her.

[Rik]

After tinkering with the Safari Tuff and attaching it through the shoulder straps of my pack to make pack and quiver one unit, I started thinking about doing the same thing with a leather side quiver, similar to a Jack Bower or Raptor side quiver.

I tried it with one I made 15 years or so ago, but due to the design, the rear portion of the quiver is pinched tight, and the fletching made noise as it was drawn through that part of the quiver, so I made a new one, but made the rear portion of the quiver more rounded and open, like a Safari Tuff. The larger, rounded opening allows the arrows to be pulled through more quietly. Not a bad improvement if I do say so myself.

I added a buckle to the strap so I can remove it from my pack quickly if I need to make a stalk without the pack on. It carries real nice over the shoulder.

Here are some pictures to show you what it looks like. The handy part is that I can have the quiver ride vertically as shown in the picture, or at a 45-degree angle, depending on what my needs are.

 

 

[Ben Maher]

Rik , very similiar to how I use my Chief Side Stalker ...

Great quivers eh !!!

[Nate Steen .]

Rik...uuhhh..drawing fingers?  Splint?  Bear season three months away...what gives?