HH bug got me ... Part One!

[WESTBROOK]

Brian, the Hex blunts work pretty well nd are available in about any weight.

Eric

[Overspined]

Judos are hard to lose. The hex usually are good too, so are the 3R brand, but Judos are really good at not burrowing under grass.

[Overspined]

Ross, I have the split bamboo miller, it's really cool.  It's a little slower than glass, but it's really smooth and quiet.  It was backset when I got it, and now it is straight, and string follow after shooting but returns to straight.  I wish I could shoot his other models or get a few of them, but they are $$.  

I have Hills, Northern Mist, and a couple others and this is a really cool bow to shoot. It is finished beautifully and feels different when shooting.  It's difficult to describe but, the glass bows feel springy compared to the Miller. It's just butter smooth and quiet.

Anyone comment on the other models?  Is the bamboo backed Osage a smooth shooter?

[Brazos]

It's not too hard to find XX75's for $30-35 doz if you don't mind the Blues which are blue or the Jazz which are purple.  I just crowned my $29.95/doz blues tonight.  I bought a variety of points in different weights.  I am anxious to get the tuned to my Hill.  My next dozen I will make some more woods.  I just figured I would try aluminums for my day in day out practice arrows for the back yard.  My woods start looking ragged after constant daily shooting.  When I go to paper tune this weekend I may try it without my side plate as has been suggested in the past few pages.

[Rik]

I hunt with 160-grain broadheads.

The Judo points are too light and don't match that weight. At anything over 25 yards they do not match the flight of 160-grain broadheads.

The plain-old-vanilla steel blunts match weight perfectly, and fly perfectly, but they do bury under the vegetation more than the Judos.

Do any of the other 160-grain blunts fly as well as broadheads at 50 yards?

I will have to wait to read your answers until Monday, as I am heading out to scout new elk country. A bit of a hell hike, but hey, there just might be more elk there than wolves.

One can make the judo heavier by packing it with split shot and then shortening the arrow taper. Even without that, I flight shot judos and found that they do not fly as far as arrows with 160 grain broadheads. So taking  long shots with them will always have some variables.  The good old matching blunt is hard to beat for warm-up shots when out hunting, besides judos tend to hang up in my quiver.

[toddster]

There are great people and bowyers on this site, but I have to admit that Steve, Craig at HHA, and our own Mr. Steen really impress me with the craftsmanship and effort they put in to create what you want.  Customer Service is King, and they are Royalty.

Stump shooting and small game, love Judo's and the Ace blunts.  I don't get to worked up at weight, just shoot a few before I hunt to adjust.  As I recall Mr. Hill would do the same thing each time shoot one arrow and start hunting.

[khardrunner]

Hammer Head blunts do a bit better job keeping arrows from being buried than do the hex heads.

[Nate Steen .]

I use judos for my yard...don't like how they hang up with bh's in the backquiver.  For rocky desert shooting I crimp on a .357 casing and slide a rubber blunt over it.   For shooting in the woods I like steel blunts or hex heads...they also shoot the best over 40 yards.

[Ben Maher]

Like Rik, i shoot 160 broadheads so do match them with 160 blunts , 160gn Hez heads when shooting woodies ....

Alloys and carbons i can use judo's , making up matching headweight with inserts ...

But Like Nate said ... judo's and back quivers just don't mix that well .

[dragonheart]

I like the ACE hexheads.

[Brianlocal3]

Thanks everyone, so pretty much it's just like everything else.... Right tool for right job.

[Brianlocal3]

I just ordered 6 ACE hex heads , and my 3 yo an angle bow from 3rivers . Thanks

[Gil Verwey]

I had someone contact me and make me a offer I couldn't refuse.

They offered me a package deal on 3 Hill takedowns in new condition. I am heading on a elk hunt and wanted to take a Hill, but all mine are one piece. I guess that problem is solved.

I was going to sell two and keep one but they are very nice and I may have to hang onto them for a while.

These are the three Hill takedowns. The top two are 70" 68# @ 28 Wesleys and the bottom bow is a 70" 70# @ 27" Big 5. All are takedowns, have sewn moose hide grips and tip overlays. Two are unshot the other was shot but looks brand new.

 

Wesley Bacote with Bacote tip overlays, black glass.

 

Wesley Bacote with Bacote tip overlays, clear glass.

 

Cocobolo Big 5 with cocobolo tip overlays.

 

[Goshawkin]

Very Nice!!!

[Nate Steen .]

this is a fair warning!!!! DON'T GO TO CLASSIFIEDS NEXT WEEK AND LOOK AT ANY SCHULZ / HILL LONGBOWS UNLESS YOU ARE IN TOTAL CONTROL OF YOUR FACULTIES!

I will be posting a couple of beauties on the classifieds as soon as I get some pics taken.  A friend wants to sell two longbows:
1) a Schulz made Hill Tembo, brown glass, 60# @ 27" 68" long condition: 8.5 out of 10

2) a Schulz Trophy Hunter, brown glass, 67# @ 26" 66" long  8.5 out of 10

just some light scratches, finish is starting to craze on the back but both are in tip top condition and shoot really good.  I'd get them but the grips are a little too short for my big hands....

stay tuned...  

[toddster]

Nate already foaming at the mouth, have to buy wife some Rose's tonight for next week, wink'

[Ben Maher]

awesome Gil !
elk steaks courtesy of a Hill huh ? That Wesley with clear glass looks sweet !

Nate ...... 2 Schulz for sale ? cool !

[sticksnstones]

I peeled the grip off my NM Classic today and found a few things I don't like were hiding under the leather.

1) when a previous owner converted this from a straight to locator grip they didn't finish the job:

     

     

2) and there are some small pock marks right about where my middle knuckle would lay across the handle:
     

For the first one, I'm good on smoothing it out with sand paper and getting it looking nice. But then what would I seal it with? Also should I sand the entire riser (or even the entire bow) so it all gets a uniform coat(s)?

I don't think there is anything I can do about those holes in the outer glass, is there? Given where it is on the bow, I'm not worried about it. Should I be?

I can post this in Bowyers Bench, but I thought with all the NM owners and crafty folks on this thread it might be good here too.
Thanks,
Thom

[jsweka]

sticknstones - You can sand the riser and re-finish the areas you sand with polyurathane to seal it.  Just be careful not to sand anything other than what is going to be under the handle wrap, otherwise you will need to sand and re-finish the whole riser to make it look good.  I wouldn't worry about those minute marks in the back glass, but if it makes you feel better, you can add a couple drops of superglue to them.

In reality, it's only cosmetic, and will be covered up with a new grip, so I wouldn't sweat it too much.  Did you like the bow before you took off the grip?