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Author Topic: Bare shafting  (Read 625 times)

Online Buckeye1977

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Bare shafting
« on: March 22, 2016, 10:16:00 AM »
This is my first time trying to bare shaft tune and have a question. When I shoot my bare shafts the tail end kicks every time no matter what I do but impact on the target is pretty close to where I'm looking with nock of arrow being a little left of center. My fetched arrows fly good and impact close to bare shafts. I'm shooting 3555 trad goldtip cut to 27 1/2" with draw at 26 and 53#. Just wondering if it was normal to kick at 10 yards or am I doing something wrong? Thanks Nick
Nick

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JD Berry Viper 62” 50@28

Online Buckeye1977

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2016, 10:17:00 AM »
Forgot to mention 100 grain insert and point!
Nick

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JD Berry Viper 62” 50@28

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2016, 10:21:00 AM »
Only be concerned about how the bare shafts group along with the fletched shafts. Don't worry about the bare shafts being angled left or right.

 http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

Online Orion

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2016, 10:38:00 AM »
A pluck on release will cause a kick, as will a brace height that's too low. Of course, an arrow that's too stiff will as well.

Do you have 200 grains total up front, or 100?  If 100, they're probably too stiff.  200 grains or a little more should fly well out of your set up.

If you're sure your form is OK, try raising your brace height before you try anything else.  Good luck.

Offline Jakeemt

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2016, 10:45:00 AM »
X2 what Orion said.  I use bareshafts to check my release along with tuning.

Online Buckeye1977

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2016, 11:32:00 AM »
Orion, I have 200 up front. My release is probably not the greatest I'm sure so that could be it. As far as the brace height goes Bowyer recommends 7 -7 1/2 and I'm at 7 1/2 right now. Fletched arrows fly like darts and hit good with muzzy 3 blade 100 grain broadhead too. Sometimes I can get the bare shafts to fly a little straighter so I'm guessing release cause I've really only been shooting for a month after being away from trad for about 10 years!
Nick

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JD Berry Viper 62” 50@28

Offline 9 Shocks

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2016, 01:48:00 PM »
Put another 75 grains up front and see what happens
60” Bivouac Backland ILF longbow 42@27
58” Schafer Silvertip recurve 47@27
58" Primaltech Longbow 45@27

Online Buckeye1977

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2016, 02:12:00 PM »
I put a few more tips on there anywhere from 125 to 200 and didn't seem to help so I went back to the 100 grain. Probably just need to shoot a lot more but didn't know if the bare shafts were doing what they were supposed to. Really the impact point is what I'm looking for?
Nick

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JD Berry Viper 62” 50@28

Offline 9 Shocks

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2016, 02:15:00 PM »
Yeah impact points. Straightening the shaft out can be done with brace height adjustments if you are close. Ideally the shaft is leaving the bow as straight as possible so the fletchings create minimal drag and do as little work as possible
60” Bivouac Backland ILF longbow 42@27
58” Schafer Silvertip recurve 47@27
58" Primaltech Longbow 45@27

Online Buckeye1977

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #9 on: March 22, 2016, 03:36:00 PM »
Very helpful, Thanks everyone!
Nick

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JD Berry Viper 62” 50@28

Offline Pheonixarcher

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2016, 03:27:00 AM »
This subject has been covered many times before on this site! Do a search here, and you will likely have hours of reading. I personally find the bows preferred brace height first, then tune my bare shafts to the bow. You also neglected to mention if you shoot right or left handed, and the type of bow you are shooting, as that information will help others in their advice for you.  Ten yards is a good place to start, but you really won't know how good your bare shafts are flying until you get out to 20 or more yards.
Plant a fruit or nut tree today, and have good hunting tomorrow.
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Offline katman

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2016, 07:29:00 AM »
Once your close at 10yds back up to 20 and 25 yards and adjust as necessary. At 10 yards the bare shaft has little time to plane off line. You will see more deviation at the longer distances. If you plan on hunting bareshaft is the starting point. Goal is to get fletched shafts with field points and broadhead impacting together.

100gr total insert plus point sounds like it would be stiff. 100 gr insert plus 100gr point sounds better. Also they may be a little short so acting stiff. Let the fletch/bareshaft results impacting the same guide you. Use the link Roy posted.

I prefer to pick the shaft and desired point length which I know will be weak and bareshaft plane tune by reducing shaft length slowly. Agree with Phoenixarcher find brace that is quietest and least shock first.
shoot straight shoot often

Online Buckeye1977

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2016, 09:16:00 AM »
Shooting a zipper with standard riser rh. My total up front is 200 grains instead of 100 sorry if I didn't clarify. These shafts were some I already had so trying to make the best of what I have but may have to buy new to get optimal performance but would like to try to make these work for now so I can get back to shooting.
Nick

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JD Berry Viper 62” 50@28

Offline mahantango

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Re: Bare shafting
« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2016, 06:50:00 PM »
Don't worry about flight nearly as much as point of impact. You have to be a machine with a perfect release to get great flight with a bare shaft. If they are hitting where you aim Fletch them up and have at it.
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