New to the site and traditional archery

[Dan A]

Hey guys, was referred here by some folks on a Bushcraft forum I am on everyday.

I've shot a compound for a number of years but I am brand new to traditional archery.

I has already made me fall in love again with archery so first off I am quite pleased.

I do have a couple questions though getting started.

First off it has been suggested to me that my arrows are probably not spined right.

I have a 25" DL as measured by Navajo Bows knowledgeable owner. I have a 50# Navajo Apache bow but with my draw length am figuring I am pulling more like 42 lbs.

Current Arrows:

Easton Axis Traditional arrows 500 spine
Cut at 27", inserts and tipped with 125 gr. points
5" feathers

Being recommended:

Easton Axis Traditional Arrows 500 spine
Cut at 31 inches, tipped with 145 gr. to 175 gr.
5" feathers

So my questions are:

1. Are the arrows being recommended a good choice/setup for me?

2. What braodheads should I purchace and in what weight grain?

3. Should I get target points at the same weight as the broadheads?

4. I am shooting a right handed bow but am for sure left eye dominate. I have been shooting with both eyes open focusing on the target and not aiming the arrow. I am going the wrong way?

Look forward to learning on here and all the potential help from intelligent folks.

Thank!

Dan

[KentuckyTJ]

Welcome from Kentucky!

Yes you will be in a .500 spine shaft with that draw length and poundage. The trick is to know how long to cut them and that depends on how your shelf on the bow is cut and what point weight you would like to end up with. I suggest buying a shaft test kit or simply just ordering two or three shafts from BigJim's. I also highly recommend you get with someone locally that will be able to show you how to bare shaft tune. That will save you a lot of time and headache. Just ask on here and someone close will step up. Good folks here.

[Dan A]

Ah thanks! Would bare shaft tuning be through paper and like it is for a compound?

Would you all say my current arrows are probably spined too stiff?

[dbd870]

As short as those are I suspect so.

[mcgroundstalker]

Why buy new arrows just yet? Maybe you should use a 200 or 225 grain point for now... My draw length and draw weight are very close to yours... Short arrow/heavy point works for me...

There is so much to learn... But, remember to have fun! Get onto Stu's Dynamic Spine Calculator... Helped me ten fold!

Remember, you are new to this trad stuff... Learn slow and steady... Read the books and watch the dvd's... Most of all, get to a Trad Event and find a mentor in you area... Don't make years worth of mistakes like I did...       ...

[KentuckyTJ]

Dan, paper works fine if you have fletchings on the shaft but the purpose of bare shaft tuning is to try and tune the shaft without the fletching straightening out the arrow. When you get the bare shaft flying as straight as possible then a fletched shaft will really fly well.

[Dan A]

Ah ok, now I understand.

[mike g]

       

[creekwood]

I think this is a good youtube video explaining bare shafting.

[wingnut]

If you get in a pinch on tuning we are 3 hours out on 20.  Be glad to give some hands on help.

Call before you come to make sure we will be here.

Mike

[Sirius Black]

[jackdaw]

If draw weight at his draw length is only 42#, then a 600 spine would be my choice. Then that 125 point weight would be fine..

[jackdaw]

:cool:

[Sam McMichael]

Welcome from Georgia. I can't help on the arrow selection, as I only shoot wood.

[Bowwild]

I echo two things here.

The 600 spine if shooting a 125 grain broadhead/field point. 500 spine if you are wanting to shoot heavier. My draw length is 26" and I shoot 43-49# at my draw length with 600 and 500 spine arrows. I simply shoot heavier broadheads/field points with the 500 spine.

I cut my arrows 1-1.5 inches longer than my draw length. I don't like the arrow out more than 1.5" from the back of the shelf.

If you want I'll send you a couple fletched up Axis Trads in 500 spine you can have and test. I'll also include a couple 600 spine Axis. Both will have feathers. No charge, I'll cover shipping too. Just PM me a shipping address if you want em.

I paper tune from 6-8 feet to tune and proof.  When I achieve a "bullet hole" I put a broadhead on and shoot for a group.

All of this said, you need to get your form solid so you'll be tuning the arrow rather than yourself. I shoot recurves and compounds, sometimes like today both in the same session. Other than one has a release aid and sights and the other doesn't, no difference is shooting form.

[Miles Bate]

Welcome from way north Texas,
I would definetly bare  shaft and paper tune , I would also with the original arrow mark the area where they are grouped . Then write the point weight on the original grouping for example 125gr. This little trick saved me some money. Like others posted above good form will always be key for finding right arrow.

Shoot straight

[KentuckyTJ]

If you are expecting to hunt, I would suggest a heavier point weight with your .500 spined shafts. If you stick to this long enough and get some critters under your belt you will go heavier eventually for penetration purposes. I wish someone would have told me that when I was starting out. It took me years to get out of the light and fast stage and get to an arrow that was heavier and much more deadly.

Seriously get with someone close to lend a hand. It will save you a lot of time in figuring this all out. It is very hard to do through a forum.

As stated above, your current arrows are likely too stiff. Not knowing how long you have been shooting, I will add this: If you are new to trad shooting, don't worry too much about tuning. Try to work on learning good form and gaining consistency. Without good form and consistency you probably won't be able to get reliable results while tuning anyway.

Welcome to the Gang!

Bisch

[hawkeye n pa]

I'll let others help you but welcome and enjoy!

[wooddamon1]

Not much help with the carbons, but welcome from Michigan.