How long do you like your arrows

[Miles Bate]

Recently , I had a person that I know put a arrow into hand. Sorry no pictures . What had happened was the arrow slipped off the arrow shelf and into the hand. I personally like my arrows a good 0ne to two inches from my hand. I do this to insure that my arrow , and broadhead don't make contact with my hand.

What do you prefer? I do know that some like short arrows for many different reasons. Please leave info. Thank you all for your thoughts.

[Pat B]

I prefer a longer arrow. I shoot 30" arrows for my 26" draw. I shoot mostly selfbows and I think the longer arrows get around the bow better plus I like the extra physical weight.

[kat]

Normally, I shoot longer arrows. I know that many people don't like much sticking out past the riser, but I shoot for me and not them.
To answer your question; my length is wherever they fly the best.

[Orion]

I cut all my arrows one inch longer than my draw, plus point, and tune with point, adaptor and insert weight and or side plate adjustments.  

I like my arrows to be no longer than they have to be for a number of reasons.  One, with my arrows in a bow quiver, the nocks don't stick into the dirt when I lean my bow against a tree. Two, it takes less movement removing an arrow from the bow quiver and putting it on the string.  Three, since the arrows are shorter, the arch they make when the bow is moved is smaller, i.e., just less movement for critters to pick up on.  Four.  I'd rather have the extra weight up front with heavier point weight for more FOC vis-a-vis greater weight due to a longer shaft.  Five, longer shaft length itself reduces FOC.  Not talking big differences here, but every little bit counts.  If I thought on it a bit, could probably come up with a few more reasons.

On the other hand, if I were a gap shooter, I'd want my arrows to be as long as possible.  Lots of reasons to do either and either works.

[SELFBOW19953]

I slid a Snuffer across my index finger when I overdrew a little with arrows cut to draw length.  Luckily, it was an old practice head that had been shot into the dirt a lot-no damage to the finger, can't say the same for my shorts!!!  I usually cut my arrows 1" longer than my draw.

[COMPOUNDLESS IN CONCRETE]

I shoot full length 2216's which are 34" long.  I like the long arrows for gap shooting and keeping my point on distance around 25 yards.

[elkhunter45]

I cut mine 2" longer than my draw just to be sure that even if I overdrew a little that I would still be safe.

[highlow]

Used to shoot 'em about 29.5 for my 28 draw. But to get more FOC, I picked up some stiffer shafts than recommended for my draw so that I could put more up front weight to get, in some cases, EFOC. Right now I'm shooting GT blems (Big Jim's) at full length 31" with a 200 gr field pt. and they're great out of my 45 lb. bows. I never shot any so short I'd have to worry about cutting my finger with a broadhead. Who does that?

[dbd870]

I like to be a couple of inches longer than my draw.

[olddogrib]

Arrow saws are the devils's handiwork!  My life has gotten so much simpler since I, choose spine accordingly, leave everything full length, tune with point weight.  Cutting is a last resort. Nobody asks why my forehead is always bruised anymore. I thought I'd hate excess arrow length, but along with high nock sets and crawls it's just another tool to reduce PO.  Just turn the saw off and back away from it slowly....now breathe deeply, life is good!

[jonsimoneau]

I've found that I'm more accurate if I leave them as long as possible. Some really good archers I know leave them full length and do everything they can to get their "Point on" around 25 yards or less if possible.

[Terry Green]

all my arrows are 29"s bop....my draw length is 27.5 to 28 depending on the bow.

lots of better ways to get more weight than 3 inches of arrows shafts that don't weight squat

most of the picks of guys with inches of arrows hanging of the end of their shelf don't have proper alignment ....meaning their elbow is pointing at 4-5 o'clock instead of 6....

or it could be some sort of aiming system for some

[Pat B]

Remember, when you buy commercial wood shafts they are spined for a 28" arrow with a 125gr point. For each inch over that 28" you can subtract 5# per inch for the effective spine and for each 5grs of tip weight added you decrease the effective spine by 1#. The reverse takes place for shortening the shaft or subtraction tip weight.

[Sam McMichael]

I like long arrows, too. I draw 25"and shoot 29" arrows.

[nd chickenman]

I use xx75 2219 full length, and then when the buddies have our little flight shooting contests I have 34" of draw!

[Michael Arnette]

Jon I never thought about length effecting accuracy! I've been shooting shafts cut to 30.5" and draw 28.5" but used to cut them shorter until I had one get me with a judo

[WESTBROOK]

I draw about 28-3/4 and cut mine to 29", I'll go 30" if they are really heavy shafts so I can go lighter point.

[Cavscout9753]

1/2" longer than draw. I never could figure out how to do it with carbons but with woods it came easy to me. My draw on my Hill is 26" so my arrows are 26 1/2" BOP. With a back quiver its an advantage. I control the arrows from draw to nocking by the nock, like Shulz shows in his videos. My fingers only contact the nock through the entire process. To do so with longer arrows would be additionaly difficult due to the shoulder mobility required. But... all this is just me.

I like the length that tunes the best, but strive to get to happen with about 1" past the back of the bow.

Bisch

My arrows are either net of the lead corner of the point to the index finger or bop tagging the index finger.