Help bareshaft tuning

[nhbuck1]

Hey guys I'm currently bareshaft tuning. I'm confused with this canted otpr not canted way. I shoot instinctive and shoot with a can't. What head will work with this arrow you think? Trade only 400 spine at 30 inches shooting bear super grizzly recurve off shelf at 50 lb at 28 inches which I am. I'm getting weird flight with it. Shooting vertical is unnatural to me.
Thanks
Kyle

If your draw length is 28" and you are shooting 50#, I think the 30" .400 is too stiff, unless you have a whole lot of weight (like maybe 300+gr) up front.

I paper tune, but shooting vertical is very unnatural to me also.

And welcome to Trad Gang!!!

Bisch

[nhbuck1]

Thank you Busch, the 250 are flying OK but showing stiff still when bareshaft tested with a can't. I don't know how I can tune my bow shooting vertical when I shoot canted

[nhbuck1]

Busch sorry lol dang auto type

[nhbuck1]

Busch sorry lol dang auto type

[moebow]

I will agree with Bisch about the arrow spine being too stiff.  I'd also ask, how long you have been shooting??  For many shooters, bare shaft shooting is MORE LIKELY to point out form and execution errors than it is to show "tuning" problems.  Especially if you are relatively new to this.

Arne

[Mr. fingers]

I ran your numbers on 3 rivers spine calculator. It shows your spine is weak. Although I just guessed  on you string material and strike plate thickness. Try a 150 point instead of your 250.

With a 150 gr
Bow dynamic spine 66.5
Arrow dynamic spine 65.4

With a 250
Bow dynamic spine 66.5
Arrow dynamic spine 45.9

[nhbuck1]

I've been shooting for 26 years, this year will be my 2nd for traditional. When I put a lighter point on I get fishtailing. Also what about canting bareshafting? I shoot that way

[tracker12]

Arne's advice is pretty much spot on.  Bare shaft tuning is pretty much not worth the aggravation unless you have a very good release.  I have been shooting a bow of one sort or another since 1968 and still struggle at times with torqueing the bow.   When I do my results will not help me tune an arrow to the bow.  What I end up doing is tuning an arrow to my bad release.

[Mr. fingers]

Have you tried paper tuning with a bare shaft. At about 6 ft. I usually start there with a verticle bow. It's not the way I typically shoot either but I do it so I know I'm getting good straight arrow flight. No fish tailing and no proposing. I should mention I start with a longer or weak shaft and point I want to use then I trim them down as I tune. Once I establish a nice bullet hole I back up to10yds. To check it again. Once I'm good there I will fletch one up and check my paper tune again. Usually it's still dead on. Then I'll wait for a calm day and test my work with  a bare shaft and a fletched shaft 10-25 yds. Any adjustments from there are usually minute. I try verticle bow I try with a cant and then i lay the bow almost flat. If its tuned my bare shaft will hit with my fletched shaft
But with any tuning method your form and,execution have,to be on.hope this helps you.
Tim

[nhbuck1]

some are saying im too weak and some are saying im too stiff. the arrow is flying better with a heavier head. when i bareshaft with a cant my 250 grain still says slightly stiff. if i decrease point weight i get the fishtailing because spine being to stiff.

[Flatshooter]

Kyle, Just went through all this. I shoot a BIgJim Desert Bighorn recurve 50# @ 28" After bare shaft tuning this is what I came up with:" CX 150's cut to 29.25" with 50 gr inserts and a 200 gr broadhead. My bow is cut past center and that makes a difference since I had to build out the shelf a bit with a thicker side plate. Before that I had good flight with the CX 250's cut to 31.50" and 250 grs up front again but I did not have to build out the shelf. The 250's were a little loopy at 30 yds, the 150's fly like darts! Hope this helps. Very easy to get false weak and stiff results due to several variables, especially a poor release.

[rraming]

The spine comments are going to be all over the board, really varies by the bow and archer - those arrows should work at some length and weight. Arne and Bisch have a lot of experience.

I draw 28, with 47-51 lb recurves, 400 spine and 225 up front I can get them from 29.25"-30.5",depending on the shaft. All my shelves are cut past center though and one is a widow with a large brace height. I use that set up on these bows

PMA 48@28  
Predator 51@28
Kota Voyaguer 47@28

If that is an old Bear Grizly your shaft will be a lot weaker than these. Especially with B50 16 strand string

I think the recurves around 50 lbs are hard to get to 10 gpp. Mine are always 11+ or too light if I go to a 500 spine shaft, not dealing with plastic inserts for weight, been there, done that.

Wood shaft 60-65 lbs, and 125 up front will get you there! Cedar will be right around 10gpp, if you care

[nhbuck1]

the 250s were bareshafting weak, i dropped down to a 200 and there flying good. my release is the problem im shooting a damascus glove and the string is getting plucked from the leather, would this cause my bareshaft to drop quicker then my fletched arrows? im thinking on getting a tab any suggestions?

[nhbuck1]

this was all without canting the bow, should i bareshaft canted if thats the way i shoot?

[Bvas]

You can.
You just have to realize your group adjustments are made based on the cant.
You just have to put or imagine an X on your target that is tilted the same as your cant.
Hopefully someone can explain that better. Lol

[Bvas]

You can.
You just have to realize your group adjustments are made based on the cant.
You just have to put or imagine an X on your target that is tilted the same as your cant.
Hopefully someone can explain that better. Lol

[nhbuck1]

i shot it vertical and the 250s shot weak the 200s flew straight

[Jakeemt]

Glad to see you giving it a try man. Try this take 3 bare shafts and 3 fletch shafts for your tuning. You want to see where you bare shafts impact in relation to your fletched shafts. Now take a large sheet of paper And draw a big + on it to divide it into 4 parts. Upper left is stiff nock high upper right is weak nock high. The bottom is the same only nock low. Now if you want to shoot with a canted bow rotate that piece of paper the same degree as your cant. Make one change at a time until they come together. For hunting arrows slightly weak is better than slightly stiff. Also about 5-6 nock low is good it gives a little better forgiveness.

[Jakeemt]

This is the best guide a know of and is a go to for any archer.

 http://cdn.eastonarchery.com/uploads/download-files/Tuning_Guide.pdf

P.s. The above list assumes you are a r handed archer is you are an evil southpaw reverse the values.