What brand of wood arrow stain and lacquer do you use?

[tim roberts]

first ill stain with minwax water base stain lightly sand, then I dip seal them with ProFin, 2-3 coats with a squeegee lid, crest, and then 2 more coats of ProFin, the last two coats I don't use the squeegee on, just dip, and let it run off.

 
Thanks,

[pockets]

Currently; I wipe on leather dye, then seal with 3 coats of Krylon clear from a rattle can (rubbing with steel wool between coats).

[Eric Krewson]

Leather dye and Minwax stains followed by multiple coats of wiped on Tru-oil gunstock finish, 3 or four coats before I crest and a couple more after cresting.

[Tim Finley]

Any stain will work ,for a clear coat I use Zarr satin poly it is an exterior coating and marine finish, very durable and with 2 coats dipped the finish is like glass, it dry's in 2 hours I didn't shoot mine for 24 hours though .I tried minn wax water based poly and left my arrows in the target over night, it rained and the shafts turned white they dried out clear but that doesn't seem to water proof, they need to be sealed or they will be crooked.

[Don Stokes]

I keep it as simple as possible. Lately I've been using a mineral-spirits based penetrating sealer on my yellow poplar shafts, after which I crest, then spray on two clear coats of acrylic. I fletch with superglue. I don't do crown dips because I don't want the added weight in the shaftmond.

[dhaverstick]

For staining, I almost always use aniline dyes. For sealing, I've used just about everything under the sun at one time or another; spar urethane, spar varnish, gasket lacquer, the Massey finish, Daly's ProFin, polyurethane, etc. I probably like Daly's ProFin the best but it costs a small fortune to ship it to my house so lately I've been using polyurethane. I like to dip my shafts and will do six or seven coats with at least 12 hours drying time in between and a sanding with steel wool.

Darren

[ron w]

Minwax stain for me......then cheap spray lacquer from ACE hardware. Seems to work ok. Arrows get 3 coats of spray, with light steel wool in between.

[Sam McMichael]

My last dozen were done with Minwax stains and poly.

[Shadowhnter]

I use Rit dye, mixing my own colors. There are a ton of color recipes available to achieve vast amounts of about any colors you can imagine. I like the powder form, and I mix it with 90% alcohol. I wipe the stain on with  black foam applicators with handles. Very cheap. I do no sanding, as I use gasket laquer, and I want the wood fibers raised in order to catch ahold of the laquer better. I like using the big dipper and wiping gaskets from 3 rivers. Makes nice arrows, quickly.

[Longtoke]

I like to do all in one and use oil based tractor enamel  paint. Otherwise I like them unstained

[bowslinger]

I crushed enough black walnut hulls to fill a half gallon jug half full. I then filled the jug with distilled water.  I let the water and hulls sit for a few months, shaking the jug vigorously for a few minutes two or three times a week.  I then filtered the liquid using coffee filters and a deep funnel.

I wiped on stain with a clean cotton rag.  I took two to three coats of stain to get the color I wanted. I used Birchwood Casey Tru-oil and a foam brush to seal the arrows, 3 to 4 coats, sanding lightly between coats with 0000 steel wool.  Very happy with the color and finish.

I found a few different references on the internet describing making stain from black walnut hulls.

[Longtoke]

Has anyone tried the Armorall/tru-oil finish for their arrows? Was wondering if it was flexible.

[Don Stokes]

One thing to consider: Polyurethane tends to stick in 3D targets, making pulling the arrows difficult.

[LBR]

A buddy of mine modified the Jay Massey epoxy finish he used on bows to work on arrows.  Works great.  Fast, cheap, easy, super durable.

[Yewbender]

Minwax oil and water based stains and minwax oil and water base poly. I also used Tru oil.

[Walt Francis]

I have used most of the finished mentioned and settled on Daley's Pro Fin for the finish.

Don't want to hijack this thread, but what type of glue do you use with your finish to put on your feathers?  I am only interested in glue, not fetch tape.

[Kevin Dill]

Walt, I have been a steady user of Bohning Fletch-Tite glue for years...even the latest Platinum version...and it has given me zero problems. My last dozen shafts I was gluing feathers over a True North (finish) crown dip with Platinum. Those same arrows went to Alaska with me last year and...well...I think you know what kind of horrible conditions I endured. Every last arrow came home and not a single feather has moved. Platinum is still gold for me, lol.

That said, I just tried Duco for the first time a few days ago. I was just gluing feathers on some completely raw shafts for test shooting. I fletched a dozen raw firs and so far everything is tight. I still have to go with what has worked 100% for me over the years and that's been Bohning Fletch-Tite.

And since I'm here: I have finally made the switch from Bohning lacquers (because of the volatile vapor) to True North finishes. I follow their instructions exactly and not a single problem. For stains I think most anything can work as long as it has dried well and the shaft receives a light steel wool rub with 4-0.

[Walt Francis]

Thanks Kevin,

I always used Bohning Fletch Tite/Platinum until I changed to Pro Fin for the finish, then I went to Duco. The last quart of my gallon of Pro Fin went bad so I built two dozen arrows using Watco.  I am unable to find anything other than super glue that will adhere to it, then only sometimes.  Don't want to take any chances with the Alaskan weather this fall, all 24 arrows will require a mid-evil type thread wrap starting at the front, through the entire length of the feather, and the back end.  

Duco is not available anywhere around here so I am looking for a finish compatible with Bohning Platinum that is not water based.

[Don Stokes]

I use superglue to fletch, and with some finishes I have to wait a little longer for it to set. So far it has worked on everything I've used it with, but GL requires a longer cure time or the fletching may come off. Works great with polyurethane, same chemistry.