Wood Arrows - Your Main Things

[Rough Run]

I see from reading the various threads that I am not the only one here that is really interested in shooting wood arrows, and building them themselves.  I have officially taken the plunge, and have 2 orders of starting supplies that should arrive in the next couple of days, just in time for the weekend!

For the experienced arrow builders out there, my request is this -- if you had to pick the 2 most important things to know/remember in crafting your arrows, what would they be, and why?

I have combed the How-To forum here, and watched numerous videos.  But I would really like to hear it from a wide variety of those that do it.

Thanks for sharing your time and experience!

[Hatrick]

#1 - buy the best quality shaft you can afford from vendors that specialize in wood shafts. They will be closer in grain weight, spine, and tighter and straighter grain. If they're not closely matched you'll get very frustrated with accuracy issues and consistency.

#2 - buy a good quality taper tool that will give you accurate tapers. Misaligned nocks and points also add to accuracy issues.

[FlintNSteel]

Hatrick has two good ones for sure.

I'll add that job one is to straighten those shafts.   You cannot nock or point taper a crooked shaft well and it's certainly not going to fly worth a hoot.  I have the best luck by hook straightening since this compresses fibers and relieves stress in the wood which is longer lasting vs heating or just bending over your palm (or whatever) as that does not seem to be very long lasting.

[Red Beastmaster]

Orient the shaft on the bow so the edge grain is horizontal and against the side plate. Then glue the nock.

I did not know this on my first batch and had very erratic flight on most of them.

[monterey]

Remember to orient your nocks correctly in relation to the growth rings!

Get a good taper tool from the get go!

[Gordon Jabben]

I'll second the taper tool needs to be a good one.  Cutting oil and bad glue get the blame for points not staying on when I feel that it's the taper on the wood shaft not being correct most times. Nocks also must be put on straight.

[M60gunner]

use good shafts and components including glue. Have had my share of "mistakes" trying cheaper supplies.
Yes, there are a lot of DYI vidoes, threads here on Trad Gang to help you. What may be most important to one arrow maker may not be the same as another. Usually it is because of experiences often negative. Some guys explain a process better than another. That is we're help from guys on here can help clear up any questions.
To bad no vendors sell kits like Kittridge Bow Hut did when I started. Had all a guy needed plus a booklet with instructions even I could follow.
Welcome to one of the best parts, IMO, of this hobby, sport.

[DennyK]

Tapering tool is very important, if I were to buy one it would be the Woodchuck tapering tool. Angles for both nock and point taper. Have fun and enjoy your new addiction.

Denny

[Grey Taylor]

All of the above is great information and will help you out a great deal.

I'll add:
Buy your wood shafts from a GREAT vendor. I've seen way too many shafts from what are usually considered to be good vendors to be mismatched in spine and weight as well as having dicey grain.

When you mount your points be sure to clean them to the point that you could toss them in your chili. The oil left inside points is the culprit for them pulling off in targets. Clean that out perfectly and it almost won't matter what glue you use to mount them. I like epoxy.

Guy

[Rough Run]

Thanks, everyone - this is exactly what I was hoping for.  

I purchased a Tru-Center V2 taper tool and an Ace Roll-R straightener.  Port Orford Cedar for my first shafts.  I thought the roller-type straightener may be easier on the finish for later straightening.  Is that type less effective?  Have you ever used that taper tool?  And I would like to try different woods as I progress but, I have read that douglas fir doesn't react as well to the blade-type taper tools, like I will have.  

Thanks for sharing, gang - I really appreciate it!

[dringge]

Great timing. I am also wanting to order supplies to make my own arrows. I have made them in the past but always used a friends equipment. I really need my own.

[Ray Lyon]

Your tools will be fine.  Consistent grain orientation as noted above when gluing  nocks. Also, do your straightening before any tapering. I generally straighten a few times and let the shaft rest for a day or two between straightening sessions.

As for future endeavors, you could find one of the vendors with reputable shafts that will cut to length and point/nock taper the shafts for you on their grinders if trying one of the other shaft materials that don't lend themselves to tapering smoothly with blade tools.  There's a charge for this service, however if doing less than ten dozen arrows, it's cheaper than Woodchuck tool.

[slowbowjoe]

I second all of the above. I use the Ace straightener, and it's great. Expect it to take a little while to get a feel for how much pressure to apply, and where.
A spin tester is great, a perfectly flat surface works too. Work the high spots... one at a time.
Patience is a necessity.

One thing to add about installing points: after cleaning them, gluing them on, and checking them for spinning true, be sure to dip the point in cool water, or run it under the tap, while you know the point is still fully set. The hot melt will push the point out while it's still cooling if you don't.

[Sam McMichael]

All the advice so far sounds good. I would add one thing: Take your time.

[fujimo]

x2 on the roller straightener- it is kinder on shafts i think, and easy to make a spin tester- essential tool i think.
piece of 2x4 maybe 24" long two small pieces of plywood on either end with a V cut into them, place shaft in V and rotate it! i have 1/16 gradations marked down in the center of the 2x4- really helps me to see any movement.

[snag]

Order your Douglas fir shafts from Surewood Shafts. They are a sponsor here. Ask for them to do the court to length(bop), nock and point taper, and if you wish, a tail taper. This will make it much easier as you deep your toes into the "arrow making" pool.

[snag]

If you want to tune them by cutting and tapering yourself then just have them do the nock and tail taper. Can't stress enough how important it is to start with checking and straightening wood shafts before doing the nock and pt. taper. You want everything centered.

[WESTBROOK]

When I get new shafts the first thing I do is determine which end will be the nock end. I put the best/straightest grain at the nock end cause it is the least likely to warp over time. Its a pain trying to straighten in the fletch area.

[Ray Lyon]

Originally posted by WESTBROOK:
When I get new shafts the first thing I do is determine which end will be the nock end. I put the best/straightest grain at the nock end cause it is the least likely to warp over time. Its a pain trying to straighten in the fletch area.

Yes, I do the same. Also try to cut off any problem areas on the bad ends. I cut my shafts to my finished-pretapered length and then do my straightening. Why work on a 1-2 inch section that won't be there after I cut to length anyway.

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by Rough Run:


For the experienced arrow builders out there, my request is this -- if you had to pick the 2 most important things to know/remember in crafting your arrows, what would they be, and why?

Take your time, and don't rush anything.

Arrow building should be fun, as soon as you rush things (or cut corners) you will either forget, or skip a step, and you will be stuck with something that is less than what you set out to accomplish.