Three piece bow takedown question.

[fireball31]

Ok. I am a total noob to the three piece bow game. I shoot Hill style longbows all of the time but I am in a bit of a conundrum. I have locked up permission for some property in a very urban setting, I have also been scouring my plat books and have found several totally unused pieces of public property that are in an urban setting. I will need to ride a bike several miles to access the public land and will pass many people out walking, hiking, and biking. I am trying to be as covert as is humanly possible both to avoid drawing undue scrutiny from people who don't agree with hunting, and to avoid broadcasting that there are hunting opportunities. I'm serious when I say that there is nobody hunting these whitetails right now. They are growing big based on eating peoples landscaping and gardens.

This is forcing me to look at three piece bows. I looked for quite a while at the multitude of three piece bolt on limb longbows that are available. I really like the Northern Mist whitbeck, and the pronghorn's. The issue is that apparently these bows are not meant to be taken down every time aren't shooting them. This bow will be taken apart every time I get out of a tree and put back together every time I stash my bike. Legitmately 100 times a season besides just normal shooting and practice. If I'm wrong about that, correct me and I will end up going that direction.

If I understand correctly an ILF or Formula limb system bow can be taken apart every time. I'm now leaning more towards an ILF because of the massive amount of limb options. Sorry for the long post, any help would be appreciated.

[reddogge]

The burning question is how are you going to handle a dead deer? Especially a big one.

An ILF is quick and easy to take down and assemble and if you keep your string slid down the limbs nothing should change. You could put it into a back pack and carry an Arrowmaster quiver on your back.

[fireball31]

I'll be taking the deer out after dark, deboned in a backpack. I'm thinking I will keep the arrows in a large blueprint tube or one of my takedown fly rod tubes. Thank you for answering my question. Now to pick a riser, I'll use the search function for that part. Not trying to start that debate LOL.

[Stump73]

Dryad has nice Ilf risers and limbs. Extremely fast and quiet.

[Homebru]

I wouldn't discount the availability of a 2-piece bow, either.  Some of the RD longbows are pretty small.  I'll bet someone out there makes a nice 2-piece ASL.  If I knew then what I knew now, I'd have 2-piece bows instead of 3-piece.  I prefer the looks of the 2-piece.  Weren't many made when I bought my bows.
homebru

[fireball31]

I looked very hard at the GN bows with a hinge, none of them will pack up small enough for this plan. I to prefer the look of them much more, I cannot comment on the shootability because I haven't spent much time with any of the take down options. The closest I found was the GNBCO Little Creep but I draw just a hair over 29in and I found it was beginning to stack. I have been looking closely at the dryads, I wish that A&H would make an ILF because I really like their riser geometry more than just about every other option I've looked at.

[Archie]

I would not use a 3-piece, too much monkeying around with allen wrench and bolts.  I would use a 2-piece with bow-bolt or locket socket.  They are quick to take-down and put together, and are very reliable.  My 66" 2-piece longbow would work just fine for the situation you are describing.

[Hermon]

McBroom bows makes a two piece ASL with a carbon sleeve I believe (like Black Widow and Big Jim).  Can't tell it is a takedown when assembled and no tools required.

[bucknut]

I agree with homebru. I have several 3 piece TD's but I would look at the Toelke Pika, Whip or the Super D In a bow bolt system. I can have my TD whip put together and strung ready to shoot in under a minute easily. It will also store in a shipping  tube. Just my .02.
John

[TxAg]

Can you put the unstrung bow in a fly fishing tube? Nobody will think "bow"

[bunyan]

I was wondering how you were gonna get one out. Boning it is a good idea. I would throw a three piece in the pack, and stash two or three carbon or aluminum arrows in a thin pvc tube attached along the frame of the bike. Painted black if it helps it blend into the frame. Non wood arrows allows you to remove your broadheads and keep the pvc pipe even thinner. I personally shoot a one piece 50s style recurve so I understand your preference for a slender, lightweight bow. If you can find a two piece that breaks down and conceals for you then go for it but I think a three piece will be the simplest solution for concealing your bow.

[D. Key]

Every time I take a longbow to the PO, they ask if it is a fishing rod?  Go figure.  I'd go with a 2 piece locket socket longbow.

[tracker12]

Originally posted by Archie:
I would not use a 3-piece, too much monkeying around with allen wrench and bolts.  I would use a 2-piece with bow-bolt or locket socket.  They are quick to take-down and put together, and are very reliable.  My 66" 2-piece longbow would work just fine for the situation you are describing.

No allen wrenches needed for an ILF rig.  Snap the limbs in a string it up.

[Orion]

I don't really find it difficult to take down my take down bows.  Just an allen wrench and two bolts.  Agreed that an ILF is quicker and easier, and more limb options.  If you're considering a recurve, might also consider a Bear TD. No bolts there. Just as fast as an ILF and a pretty good selection of limbs as well.

I've often carried my longbow and arrows in two pvc pipes taped together and tied to my motorcycle.  No reason it wouldn't work on a bicycle as well.  May look a little unusual, but folks won't know what you're carrying. Put a small American flag on the top to really confuse them.  

[BenBow]

I put my 3-piece bow in a plastic arrow carrier I buy at walmart. I cut 3 pieces of closed cell foam backpacking sleeping pad and put that in the bottom of the case. I cut out the outline of my limbs and riser and the bow is held secure. I cut down the arrow holders and use double sided tape to mount them in the lid. Now I can carry the bow and 6 arrows all concealed and protected. The case comes with two small boxes that I put the bolts and wrenches and I put two strings in the other box. If you get a box for your broadheads you can cut a spot for it in the foam too.

[Pine]

If you're not against shooting a recurve , The Bear Takedown A handle with #1 limbs would be the way to go .
No tools and it can be put together in a few seconds .

[lone hunter]

Yep..2-piece pika, whip, or super d.

[Bladepeek]

I see you have a long draw, and will need a slightly longer bow, but I have a Javaman, Elk Heart 2-piece 54" longbow and I draw 28". Not a trace of stacking. I would bet a 56" would be suitable for you. My 54" fits into my quiver and is shorter than my arrows. Light weight, slender and quick. Gregg has gone full-time on bow making now, so his lead times should be a lot shorter than the 1 year I waited. It's a lefty, but you are welcome to come up to Greenville and try drawing it if you'd like. Or, come up to Grayling this weekend and I'll have it there.

[mark Willoughby]

Get you a javaman elkheart w/ a bow bolt !

[legends1]

Check out  http://legendsbows.com/   All of our bows are 3 piece takedowns(longbow and recurve).