Bare shaft and wrap ??? Weight added

[Chain2]

Do you bare shaft with or without the wrap you plan on using ? Thanks Guys

[Bladepeek]

With the wrap, and I go one step further and add a masking tape wrap where the fletching would normally go, so the distribution of weight on the shaft will be as close as possible to the final, fletched shaft.

Probably not necessary, but so simple, why not be exact?

[Wolf1007]

I actually build a full arrow, then cut the feathers off at the base leaving the quill glued to the shaft. Gives me the exact weight as my normal arrow. I have a digital grain scale the is pretty accurate and does not pick up the weight difference of the trimmed feathers! Probably not necessary, but removing as many variables as possible helps confirm that its me that stinks and not the arrow!!

[9 Shocks]

with wraps and I have done the same things mentioned above

[crazynate]

I also build a complete arrow then cut the feathers off leaving the quill. It helps you figure out exactly the way that's coming off the shelf. Not so important on my bows with narrow shelves like my predator, but my great plains swift and B model both have wider shelves and it can cause a headache.

[Terry Green]

If the wrap is a problem....you are too borderline on spine.  It should not matter.  If it does, you will have issues with human error as that factor will be multiplied if you are borderline.

[AZ_Longbow]

i do the masking tape wrap for the weight on the back, then i work them till they show just a little weak at 20 yards. once that's done i paper tune test, then bare shaft, field point, and broad head test. i try a little short draw and over draw to and see how forgiving my setup it. so far it all works out and i cant shoot any more than one broad head and one field point into the same place without destroying arrows. always shoot the BH first to, cause if you do get it right you can easily slice an arrow in half.
 as you can see i have a lot of free time to play around.

[Chain2]

Thanks guys. I like the visibility of the wrap or I probably wouldn't mess with it. I'd rather shoot.

[Friend]

Depends on application...

1. Would use wraps for all tuning

2. Personally, don't consider my BH tipped arrows tuned unless they mark the same as my field tipped arrows from in close to 5 yards beyond my maximum effective hunting range.

Have experienced bare shafts tuned with quills apperently consistently and seemingly dead on at 20 yards, yet the large BH tipped arrow would consistently mark approximately 4"s left or right...brace ht justment placed the bare shaft, field tip and BH tipped arrows on the mark. If i bareshaft tune to 40 yards, all three shafts consistantly have found the common mark.

Just a personal confidence builder.

[JRY309]

I always use wraps on carbon arrows and prefer to have them on when tuning.

[Shadowhnter]

I second Terrys notion, and feel we should aim to be in the middle spine wise. If not and limits are pushed, every little flaw will show up as poor arrow flight. If the wrap makes the difference of good flight or poor,  think about how much more little errors in just your release is going to be compounded. Stay away from the borders of spine, and the wrap will make little to no difference.

[Chain2]

Oh Boy! I should have left well enough alone. Bareshaft without wraps enter target same angle as fletched arrows wraps or no wraps. Bareshaft with wraps enter target slightly nock right.
 Does this mean I'm too stiff to start with? Shafts are Trad Only 300 spine. 50 grain insert w/ 250 gr head cut to 32". I'm drawing 55 @ 31". Bow is Bigfoot Sasquatch.
I don't know if arrows can be longer?or even enough longer? Do I drop down in spine and shorten as much as I can?
If it's working you should never fix it.
Thanks guys

[Shadowhnter]

If you are getting dependable releases, then yes, I believe you are too close to the line of being too stiff.

Look at it this way, it apparantly WAS broken to begin with, or too close to it.. so better to fix now instead of dealing with the effects of a touchy arrow that is on the border of being to stiff....that is unless you can guarantee yourself a perfect release under the stresses of a shot at game. Up your head weight by 75-100 gr and try again to see.

[Floxter]

Always with the wraps. Typically wraps weigh 10-12gr, which might not seem like much; but adding weight to the rear of the shaft is the equivalent of removing twice as much weight from the point. Thus a 10gr wrap will stiffen the arrow as much as reducing point weight by 20grs.

[Chain2]

I don't know if I want to make the head heavier. I like the trajectory. I'm around the magic 650 gr #. I'm thinking of going to a 340 spine and see what happens from there. I think I've always thought I was on the stiff side but fletched arrows were doing ok. Thanks guys

[Chain2]

I don't know if I want to make the head heavier. I like the trajectory. I'm around the magic 650 gr #. I'm thinking of going to a 340 spine and see what happens from there. I think I've always thought I was on the stiff side but fletched arrows were doing ok. Thanks guys

[Chain2]

Sorry. Double tap. Force of habit I guess.

[Terry Green]

Guess I'm lucky.....I can use 150 to 225 grains heads off the same arrow....AND out of bows weighing 58 to 78 #s.....

75 grain head difference...20 pound bow differences.

[Friend]

The rare few maintain a consistent form execution well enough to discern differences which are likely, in fact, not required for a most effective and lethal setup.

If the BH tipped arrow and field point tipped arrows share the same mark within your effective hunting ranges, then you are likely golden.

My own extra mile for tuning is merely a personal self confidence builder.

Our traditional way doesn't require complication especially since typically, over 90% of the available gains resides with the individual performing the shot execution when utilizing a moderate setup.

[Chain2]

My BHs hit where the field tips do to 25 yds or so. I haven't shot them farther. Terry I watched your videos, although I try, I can't emulate your shooting. I need all the help I can get. I'm doing what I should have done long ago, buying a test kit. I was better off when I knew less, I now know enough to get myself in trouble. Thanks guys