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Cheapest Glue On Broadheads

Started by Mitch Edwards, August 11, 2016, 08:13:00 PM

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Mitch Edwards

So with huntin season fast approaching Im wanting a really cheap broadhead that I can put on some flu flu arrows for small game. Ive used judos and 357 casings and bounced both off of squirrels. I even knocked a squirrel from a limb once atleast 30' up with a judo it hit the ground running and went back up the tree cussing me the whole way. I know when you hit small game with a blunt it has to be breaking bones but broken bones dont equal quick kills and i dont like just wounding animals. Im thinking I need something sharp. Again the cheaper the better. Dont really care 2,3,4 blade or weight. Thanks

abbatoys

I bought a boat load of Bodkin 2nds directly from them a few years ago now. Not sure if they still sell them or not, but that is exactly why I bought them..
62" Thunderstick Moab  52lb @ 28"
60" Bear Takedown 45lb @ 28"
60" Bear 59'er 45lb @ 28"

Kip

Someone had bodkins not long ago.I bought some with him but cannot remember his name or business that what 66 years will do to you.Found it Tracy Dunn  Zipper Manuf. 16698 Edgington Rd.
Williamsburg Oh.45176-6531 Check him out a sponser here  Kip


dunn

ChuckC

Bodkins make great small game heads and they can be gotten pretty cheap.
ChuckC

jamesh76

hills hornet from the auction site.   about .75 each
-------------------------------
James Haney
Spring Hill, KS
_ _ _ _ _ ______ _  _  _  _  _
USMC Infantry 1996-2001
1st Marine Division
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tomsm44

Do a search online.  There are some Chinese glueons that I've seen that would probably work well for squirrels and are pretty cheap.  They had a sort of medieval look, similar to a bodkin, but with more of a "broadhead" shape.
Matt Toms

Flatwoods Custom R/D:  64", 47@28
'66 Kodiak: 60", 55@28
Redwing Hunter:  58", 53@28
Ben Pearson 709 Hunter:  58", 47@28
Ben Pearson 709 Hunter:  58", 42@28
Hoots Recurve:  56", 42@28

tomsm44

Also, Thunder Valley Archery has a small game head that combines a blunt with one of the bleeder blades used on the Magnus Classics.
Matt Toms

Flatwoods Custom R/D:  64", 47@28
'66 Kodiak: 60", 55@28
Redwing Hunter:  58", 53@28
Ben Pearson 709 Hunter:  58", 47@28
Ben Pearson 709 Hunter:  58", 42@28
Hoots Recurve:  56", 42@28

Mitch Edwards

Well I found some of those midieval lookin points and the ones I found atleast are aluminum! Can you believe that? Crazy what the Chinese will produce. Anyway I'll keep looking. I did run across a pretty good deal on some zwickey deltas. Been wanting to try them out for awhile. Anyone run across anything shoot me a pm. Thanks

V I Archer

You can make a saw cut into your 357 blunts and epoxy in a bear or magnus bleeder blade.

Bodkins and ribteks are the cheapest factory heads i can think of.
But be sure you live out the message and do not merely listen to it and so deceive yourself - James 1:22

sticksnstones

I use Ace Super Express 200s for all my small game, turkeys, and often on broadhead courses. Not a bad price for an American made head, and it's the easiest one to sharpen to a hair popping edge for me personally.

Good luck with whatever you decide on!
Thom

Stumpkiller

I'm hunting with Mowoc Dot broadheads made in 1960 and stored since in Larry Whiffen's garage.  I have about 40 I paid around $1.75 each delivered.  (His son, Larry Whiffen Jr., sells them in lots on ****).

For small game I bought up a BUNCH of HiPrecision three-blade 125 gr heads I paid around $1.50 for.
Charlie P. }}===]> A.B.C.C.

Bear Kodiak & K. Hunter, D. Palmer Hunter, Ben Pearson Hunter, Wing Presentation II & 4 Red Wing Hunters (LH & 3 RH), Browning Explorer, Cobra II & Wasp, Martin/Howatt Dream Catcher, Root Warrior, Shakespeare Necedah.

Mitch Edwards

V I archer I've thought about doing this honestly. Im a machinist and at work when a band saw blade gets tore up it just gets thrown in the steel scrap. A person could make a lot of "bleeder" blades from one blade. That maybe my best bet. I've looked at the thunder valley heads but if a person used those and lost all the small game arrows I do in a season they'd go broke lol. I saw 14 bear razorheads on an auction site for bout a $ a piece but it seems like a shame to loose a dozen or more pieces of history every year

Tajue17

someone beat me too it but ribteks where the cheapest I ever heard of that are tough for any type of big game hunting.
"Us vs Them"

woodchucker

Dollar for Dollar... Zwickey Eskimos!!!!! I buy them brand new, use them for Deer Hunting, then later when they've been sharpened many times & are all beat up... For Small Game heads!!! I have some that are MANY years old! They have more than paid for themselves...
I only shoot WOOD arrows... My kid makes them, fast as I can break them!

There is a fine line between Hunting, & Sitting there looking Stupid...

May The Great Spirit Guide Your Arrows..... Happy Hunting!!!

Shadowhnter

Ive always just used field points with small game stoppers. Its devastating.

Jon Stewart

I have a bunch of 5/16  2 blades (new) from the 60's that were on the cheaper side. If you can use 5/16 I will send you some. You just have to "pay it forward" one day.

frank bullitt

Don't like to shoot broadheads unless their on the ground! An early season here, which opens in 2 days, shooting in the trees.
Personally prefer and have killed many, with glue on field points, and piece of banding super glued in.
Just flatten the tip some, file or grinder. Then slot and glue in the banding.

frank bullitt

Also, shot some with just field points, 160grain glue on.

Seems the larger surface area over the screw ins penetrates and creates enough blunt force damage!

And fox squirrel are as tough as an ole
tom cat!

stagetek

A year or so ago, I bought a dozen MA-3's on the auction site. I can't remember exactly what I paid, but it wasn't much. You could also search for some Bodkins as well. Tough head.

monterey

I've had two blue grouse fly off with my arrow sticking out of them on both sides using plain field points.  I recovered one but one was never found.  

I too am reluctant to shoot broadheads into trees.  They may stick there and be impossible to recover.  Worse yet, as happened to me, I shot at a blue grouse on a limb straight above me in a big cottonwood tree.  Perfect shot!  But, the arrow kept right on going and I suddenly realized that it was going to come down eventually.  I jammed myself up against the trunk of that cottonwood and hugged it till I heard the arrow stick in the ground about 20 feet away.   :scared:  

Now, if I'm going to use field points, I do a small modification as follows.

Get some smallish to mediumish finishing nails and a drill just a hair larger in diameter.  With the point mounted on the arrow, drill a hole straight across and through.  Insert the finishing nail and cut it off with about a 3/8" sticking out on each side.  Bend each side back just enough to keep it from falling out of the hole.

It works on glue ons and with inserts or screw ins.  If you are going to do it with inserts, use the aluminum ones for ease of drilling.

Tried, true and field tested on grouse, squirrel and bunnies.
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra


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