Cutting Osage

[Ken Carter]

I had a large oak tree blow over and knock down two straight Osage trees that are 4-5 inches in diameter.  If I cut out part of the trunks for later do I need to split them or can I just seal the ends?

[wingnut]

split them now before they check and seal the ends.

Mike

[Pat B]

2x what Mike said.

[Hackbow]

In addition to following Mike's advice, you may want to tightly lash the the log splits to a straight 2X4 or similar. In my experience the smaller diameter trees tend to twist a bit more than I like when drying. It may save you a bit of adjustment work later on.

[Pat B]

If you leave the bark on be sure to treat the bark with an insecticide to eliminate borers. If you remove the bark also remove the sapwood and seal the back well. If you remove the bark ad leave the sapwood intact it will check even if sealed sometimes.
 It is a lot easier to remove the bark and sapwood while it is green but be sure to seal the back as soon as it is exposed.

[Ken Carter]

Thanks for all of the help.  Hadn't thought about the bark or twisting.

[michaelschwister]

I let it twist, then straighten it back out with heat during the bow building process.  I put it on a caul and heat temper the belly once when the blank is rough, and again after final tillering.  This makes it straight and stabilizes the wood resisting it from moisture and stress later in life.

[Pat B]

To me it's a lot easier and I get better results if I control the twist and backset while drying than if I have to remove the twists and lateral bends later. Once dry you can induce reflex, recurves or slightly reflexed tips or remove twists with dry heat. I've started tempering the belly of all my bows as the last thing I do on the caul.Some say osage isn't a good candidate for belly tempering but I think it helps and it definitely doesn't hurt...but be sure the tempering is only on the belly and doesn't overlap to the back.
  Also, be sure the back is sealed well, even after the stave is dry. I've has 10 year old staves check when heat was introduced for straightening, bending or tempering. Shellac is what I use. I keep a spray can on my workbench all the time.
 Spray shellac is a bit more expensive than other types but for as little as you use for an application in normal bow building it is very convenient to just do a quick spray when needed. Shellac can be easily removed when needed with a light sanding or a wipe of alcohol but it can be left on and most finishes can be added over it. If you want to dye or stain the wood you will have to remove the shellac.