Broadhead tuning problems...

[shreffler]

So I've been using 145gr field points on my arrows all summer long and they're flying like darts.

Today I tried out my new 150gr 3 blade VPA's, and they are all diving low left. And I'm not talking an inch, I'm talking they're hitting a foot low left.

I unscrew the broadhead, screw in my 145gr field point, and they fly like darts again.

Is 5 grains really that making a big difference? Is there anything I can do to even the flight out or are these broad heads just not going to work for this setup?

Thanks for any help!

Alex

[PaulDeadringer29]

Your arrows may not be spined correctly.....bad broadhead flight is a dead giveaway.

What's your bow weight, draw length, arrow setup?

[shreffler]

Stalker Coyote
49# @ 28"
I draw about 27.5"...

Victory V-Force .400's
Cut to 29"
3 x 5" parabolics

I was thinking these might be a little stiff, but the 145 grain field points fly beautifully

[JimB]

Have you shot the 145's on bare shafts?Fletching on field point arrows will hide a lot of tuning flaws.The broadhead will show those flaws.The broadhead flight is the ultimate test and good broadhead flight is the end goal.My experience is that you should need more point weight with .400's.On my bows,that would be 200 grs or more.Try heavier points or .500 shafts.

[Jake Scott]

In my experience you can get away with a lot with field tips, but broadheads are much less forgiving of even minute deviations of spine.  I would bareshaft or paper tune (I prefer to do both and make sure the reading support each other).  My guess is it's a spine issue that only shows itself when shooting broadheads.  I have never once had an issue getting broadheads to fly when my spine was correct.

Good luck,

Jake

[PaulDeadringer29]

You're probably overspined and the fletching is hiding it.

You would be better off starting over with .500's.

[Tyler C. Moore]

I would agree with using 500's.'I shoot many very similar set ups with .500 arrow and 200 gr. vpa's.. Of course everyone and every bow is different, but that setup seems far to still to me .

[Jasper2]

My experience mirrors what has been said so far.... try .500's or a bunch more weight up front.  29" 400's are pretty stiff for a bow less than 50#.

[Tyler C. Moore]

Or go to a 200 or 250 grain Broadhead. See how that does.

[Caughtandhobble]

Well if you're right handed and I think it is safe to say you are, the BH's are indicating "too stiff" spine.

The BH arrows indicate the spine just as bare shafts do. If you were to shoot bare shafts they would impact the same place as your BH's. The same as if you were to paper tune, your arrows would most certainly show to be stiff.

I would suggest using two nocking points on your string, that alone will often take care of the low impact. How high is your nocking point on your string?

Like said above it is always best to tune your arrows so you are not surprised when it is time for the BH's. Here is your chance to BH tune, BH tuning is effective as paper tuning or bare shaft tuning. Your ultimate goal is to have the BH and field points to impact the same hole. When the BH hits left they are showing stiff (RH shooter) just as the bare shafts will. The only down side to BH tuning is target wear. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[KSdan]

Yup.  If I get a bare shaft to fly perfect I personally have never had a broadhead problem.

[Cootling]

What others said.  It's pretty clear your field points are not flying as well as they seem.  

Your arrows would be far too stiff for me.  My bows are in the 50-55# range and I get great flight with 500s cut to 29" with 250 grains up front (150 grain broadhead and 100 grain insert).

I'll bet money your .400's are way too stiff, unless you have 100+gr of insert weight to go along with the 145gr point.

Bisch

[Arctic Hunter]

I gotta go with what everybody else is saying. I usually shoot stiffer arrows than what everybody says I should need in order to get a good bare shaft tune (mostly due to my 30.5" draw). But one of my bows is about [email protected]" and there's no way I could shoot anything stiffer than a 500 spine arrow and expect good flight.

I've found point weight rarely makes a whole lot of difference in arrow tuning.  Others may have had different experiences.

[Steve O]

Originally posted by Bisch:
I'll bet money your .400's are way too stiff, unless you have 100+gr of insert weight to go along with the 145gr point.

Bisch

Especially when cut to 29".  

Agree; strip the feathers off one and see how they fly with the field point.

[TIM B]

My full length 400's are a little stiff out of my 55# grizzly....I had to add 250 up front to correct it.

[dbd870]

I tried 400's cut at 29.5 (had them already) at 45# they were way stiff even with 250gr up front. Like everyone said, you are overspined. With my 46# 500's cut at 30.5 and a 200gr point work fine.

[crazynate]

Sounds like your arrows are to stiff. You need a longer arrow. Or a heavier point. That will fixit

[shreffler]

Thanks all. It seems like the consensus is my arrows are too stiff which is what I thought.

I've never bare shaft or paper tuned to be honest, I've just always thought "if it flies well with a broadhead then I'm all set".

Looks like I'll give some 500's a try and start with bare shafting them.

Thanks for the help!

[Bldtrailer]

Try a thinner strike plate and raise your brace height.
 If that doesn't help drop you spine (or really raise your point weight) I have a stalker fxt wolverine 52@27 and I shoot 29inch (500) gt 3555trads with 50grn insert and 175-200 grn points bare shaft tuned.
Watch this vid he talks some on strike plate tuning