fletched vs bareshaft

[DanielB89]

Have any of you ever shot a bareshaft and a fletch shaft of the same spine and length to see what it does?  


I had a very weird experience today doing this.  I am experimenting to try to find new ways to tune and see if I can find one that is fool proof(if that even exists).  Up until now I have been a 95% bare shaft tuner and 5% paper tuner.

I have read of the "ol adcock method", but havne't tried it.  

Today, for giggles, and my pleasure, I went out side and shot a full length fletched .500 spine with a 175 tip and standard insert and it shows weak(hit to the right of where I was looking).  Then I grabbed the same arrow but fletched and shot it and it his stiff(to the left of center).  

Does that sound correct?  


anyone just go out and tune by only shooting broadheads? I have thought about just grabbing 3 full length fletched arrows of different spines and going out to see how they fly with broadheads and then tune from there.  

just piddling around..

[dragonheart]

I use this method.  

         

I use an elevated arrow rest on a recurve and have found that I can get an arrow with the "fletch" cut off leaving only the quill, the fletched arrow, and a BH tipped arrow all hitting in a very close proximity, the set up is as tuned as I can shoot it.  

One dynamic that happens, I have found I simply cannot get as forgiving a set up with arrows cut too short.  I like at least, on most set ups, it depends on the arrow and point weight, 1.5 to 2.5" in front of the contact point on the shelf or rest.

For a "quickie" tune, if you can get fletched and BH tipped arrows to hit together, you are pretty much there.  Most archers shooting off the shelf shoot way too low of a nock point setting from my experience.  I have found my nock point setting really does not change that much from bow to bow as long as the bow is in tiller.

[forestdweller]

Adding the quill weight and feather weight will stiffen a shaft so if you don't take that into consideration the fact that your fletched arrows showed up stiff is of no surprise to me.

The way that I personally bareshaft tune and what has worked the best for me is to shoot a few fletched arrows from 40-50 yards and 1-2 bareshafts from that distance as well.

I eyeball the bareshafts and if they are flying relatively straight from that distance than there is no more need for tuning in my opinion.

The reason for this is that you can generally get a weak shaft to tune straight and a stiff shaft to tune straight if your release is very clean.

Feathers will straighten the shaft up relatively quickly anyways and a poor release will generally make an arrow show up weak (in my experience).

So in my opinion a slightly stiff shaft is best vs a slightly weak shaft since the arrow clears the riser and the feathers are able to stabilize the arrow very quickly anyways.

Have fun

[dragonheart]

I also double check the BH and fletched shafts at longer distance for "micro" tuning.  You have to know yourself as an archer and disregard any "flub" shots.  Getting a quill only arrow, fletched arrow, and BH tipped fletched arrow in softball group at 35 yrds, man you know that the bow is primo tuned!

[DanielB89]

Originally posted by forestdweller:
Adding the quill weight and feather weight will stiffen a shaft so if you don't take that into consideration the fact that your fletched arrows showed up stiff is of no surprise to me.

The way that I personally bareshaft tune and what has worked the best for me is to shoot a few fletched arrows from 40-50 yards and 1-2 bareshafts from that distance as well.

I eyeball the bareshafts and if they are flying relatively straight from that distance than there is no more need for tuning in my opinion.

The reason for this is that you can generally get a weak shaft to tune straight and a stiff shaft to tune straight if your release is very clean.

Feathers will straighten the shaft up relatively quickly anyways and a poor release will generally make an arrow show up weak (in my experience).

So in my opinion a slightly stiff shaft is best vs a slightly weak shaft since the arrow clears the riser and the feathers are able to stabilize the arrow very quickly anyways.

Have fun

both arrows had the quill on them.  I cut the feathers off of it.

[M60gunner]

As long as you consider it pidding around. I like my bare shaft a little weak knowing I will be adding feathers or vanes. I do not seem to have issues with BH's so far. My hunting arrows will be what I have been using until I can not get them anymore. "Shooting" arrows are another story, I like to experiment with different stuff, got some heavy hunters coming, as an example.
I admit my "tune" may not be the best because of form issues. I try and strike a happy medium.

I've bare shaft and arrow group tuned for years. It's proved to be the quickest and most fool-proof for me. I get immediate feedback as to what's going on.

First: I start at about 10 or 12 yards. I get the nock point the proper height first off, then, I start paying attention to right and left impact in relationship to arrows. I want them to impact in the same place, but a little weak on the bare shafts is okay. Feathers will usually make any spine arrow fly down the middle. I move back as I make adjustments and by the time I get to 25 yards, all is well.

If my bare shafts are impacting right (right handed shooter) of the arrows, then they're  too weak.  It's time to shorten them, use less tip weight, or try a stiffer shaft.

[The Whittler]

I use the Ken Beck Black Widow bare shaft tuning. One bare shaft and watch the nock end of the arrow as it travels to the target. For me it is very easy and works.

Put some feathers on and a broad head and all should be good.