2 Questions about broadheads! 150 grains too heavy?

[The-Talon]

***EDITED**** My draw length seems to be between 26 and 27.. most of the time I drew 26 and a half.. ******

So I shoot 500 Gold tip carbon arrow shafts with 5 inch fletchings. I shoot well with 125 grains mostly. Someone on here told me to check out a heavier broadhead for better arrow flight and penetration. So I went out and bought some 150 grain broadheads and they just seem to not be flying the greatest out of my bow .. Sometimes they seem to shoot okay but mostly they just don't seem to like me (These are 3 blade broadheads if that makes any difference)...  Is 150 too heavy or am I just doing something wrong.. They seem to consistently shoot lower to the right..

My next question is.. IF these are too heavy and I should drop back to a 125 gn .. Who makes a good 125gn broadhead that will screw into Gold tip shafts? Preferably 2 blade.

[Mike Bolin]

What is your draw length and what weight are you pulling at that length? Also what length is your arrow from the throat of the nock to the back of the point? Lots of things figure into the equation and there are plenty of folks here that will help you! Mike

[The-Talon]

I dont have much of a clue of my draw length.. and the arrows are un cut gold tips.. so I guess 30"?

[Pine]

Well going up on point weight will make you arrows weaker spine .
If you have the room , you could cut the arrow shorter or get a stiffer arrow .

[The-Talon]

Hmm that may be a good solution!

[Charlie Lamb]

So what is your bows weight? You can find your draw length by poking your arrow head through a piece of paper and drawing until the paper touches the back of the bow. After that measure from the deep part of the nock to the paper.

Also don't get carried away cutting the shaft to length. Spine changes fast when cutting carbons. Half an inch at a time until you get what you want.

Someone will come on here in a bit with instructions for bare shaft tuning. That will help a lot.

[The-Talon]

Oh sorry didnt mention my bows weight. Its a 50 pound bear montana

[Archie]

Yep, be careful about cutting.  Just use one shaft and cut a little at a time.  Put it all back together and shoot it several tomes, then do it again, until you get good flight.  The best explanation of bare shaft tuning I've seen is the one Black Widow Bows did on DVD.  It's a complex process, but once you understand it, it will really open your mind to the physics of shooting a traditional bow.

All I shoot are 150gr broadheads. That being said, it might not work for you and your setup. Only personal tuning will tell you what weight you need on the front of your arrow. If the 125gr heads you were using were correct, it is likely that the 150gr heads will throw things off if all else is left the same.

Bisch

[Mike Bolin]

You need to figure out your draw length if you can. With an arrow on the string, clamp a clothes pin on the shaft right against the bow. Draw back to your anchor point, then ease the string back down. Measure from the throat of your arrow nock to the clothes pin and you'll have a pretty good idea of your draw length. May do it a few times to get an average as being new to this, you may not be drawing back the same each time. Once you know your draw length you can determine what weight you are actually pulling and should be able to come up with a point weight that will work for you. "Most" bows gain/lose about 3# per inch. In other words, if your bow is 50#@28" and you are drawing 27", you are probably pulling around 47#. If you are drawing 29", you are likely pulling around 53#. Good luck in finding the right broadhead/arrow combination for your Montana and if you have any questions, there are plenty of folks on here that will help you out.

[BenM]

If your arrows flew great with 125's why not just stick with them?  There are several good tried and true 125 grain 2 blade heads out there.  Zwickey and Ace to name a few.  Good luck

[Longtoke]

150 is not too heavy, carbon arrows are like the 10/22's of shaft material, you can make them them in all different flavors.

If you are happy with your current arrows and just want to shoot then why mess with the recipe.

If you are looking for something different or are wondering about trying different types of arrows, there are a few things that people often consider: total arrow weight,  how much the arrow weights in correlation to your draw weight aka grains per pound,  where the weight is displaced within the arrow aka front of center, and what broadhead or broadheads you want to use.


Trying to balance all of those things to your liking may turn into a journey of its own lol.

[the rifleman]

I would definitely recommend bare shaft tuning.  125 gr two blades have worked great for me on white tails.  I've also used 200 grs up front w a 42 pound bow and the deer did not show a preference--- they both work, just had to tune my arrows to the tip weight.  Like others have said, go slowly 1/4" at a time or less as carbons respond quickly to reduction in length.  Try some 125 gr Magnus stingers.

[AZ_Longbow]

Arrows have to be tuned to the bow with the points you use.

[Wild Bill MCP 808]

150 is fine. You have to tune some and also take a look at your form there could be a problem there as well.

Tundra

[Bill Carlsen]

A 500 spine arrow in a 50# bow seems like a weak spine to me. My wife shoots low 40's at 26" and shoots a 500 spine Axis with a 150 grain 3 blade.

[Bill from NJ]

Talon,

If you can, purchase and experiment with a field point test kit.

Check some of the sponsors here for the kit.

They have a few different weight field points in the package that allow you to add or remove point weight as you see how your arrows fly and group in the target.

Personally for my 45#  longbow with 29" 8.3 GPI 500 arrow.
I use 200 and 225 grain field points/Broadheads.
They fly like darts for me and my set up.

Experimentation with your equipment and find a combination that clicks for you.

[Westkyhunter]

I have a 50# bear Montana as well. My draw is right at 28". I shoot Gold Tip Trad 500 spine arrows in it as well. Mine are cut to 30 1/4". With 200 grains up front. I can go down to 150 gr. point weight with no noticeable difference in flight. I bare shafted this set up as well. Sounds like your close on your setup but I'm curious what your draw length is. I don't think 25grains would make that much difference in your setup unless your border line weak in spine now. Your  three blade broad heads could be what's changing your impact point. If they're not aligned properly or if there's much wind they could be planing on you. You should measure your actual arrow length. A  GT 35/55 is I believe 31.5" full length so it's possible you do need to trim a bit off to stiffen them up in order to shoot 150grains.

[The-Talon]

Okay so I just tested it.. my draw length is between 26 and 27.. alot of the times i just hovered between 26 and a half.

[Longtoke]

so that means your draw weight is going to be about 45#

I also have a 26.5 inch draw.  The bow I shoot the most pulls 46# for me and I can shoot a 400 spine arrow cut to 30.5" with a 250 grain head, or a 500 spine cut to 27.5" with a 300 grain head.

both these arrows are about 11.5 grains per pound.  

Lots of variables affect the dynamic spine of the arrow like string material, limb design, shelf cut, and the archers form.

 so while hearing what works for others might get you a good starting point, your arrows ultimately need to be tuned specifically for you and your bow.