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Author Topic: Switching from compound to recurve.  (Read 1161 times)

Offline crazynate

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #20 on: November 15, 2016, 06:45:00 PM »
If I could go back and buy my first recurve again it would be a 40 pounder. 50 is easy for my but when you want to shoot a lot you will do more bad than good. Good luck

Offline AZ_Longbow

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #21 on: November 15, 2016, 07:02:00 PM »
Easiest way is to buy several, a 40,45,50,55. You know your going to anyway. It's a great addiction.
"There's only two things an arrow wants to do, it wants to fly and it wants to hit its target. It's in its very nature. Don't over think it."

Offline RodL

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #22 on: November 15, 2016, 08:45:00 PM »
I know you are thinking about the bear grizzly, but if you would go with a takedown recurve you could buy a bow with a set of limbs in the 45lb range then if you need to you could get a set of heavier limbs if you feel you need to.

Rodney

Offline Ram_n_arrows

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #23 on: November 15, 2016, 09:11:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by RodL:
I know you are thinking about the bear grizzly, but if you would go with a takedown recurve you could buy a bow with a set of limbs in the 45lb range then if you need to you could get a set of heavier limbs if you feel you need to.

Rodney
I don't really like the looks of take downs. It seems like most people love the grizzly and the tradition behind it has me dying to shoot one.  I am gunna shoot both 50 and 55 to see which one I can handle best.

Offline Friend

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #24 on: November 15, 2016, 09:22:00 PM »
All the best with whatever decision you choose.
>>----> Friend <----<<

My Lands… Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #25 on: November 15, 2016, 11:52:00 PM »
Good luck, and welcome to the Gang!

Bisch

Offline forestdweller

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #26 on: November 16, 2016, 10:49:00 PM »
It depends on how much you plan on shooting and how well you want your form to develop.

If you plan on shooting at least 2-3X a week if not more starting out with even 40# is going to be a mistake as it will be too difficult to learn good form on.

Personally I would start out with 35# and go with a 40# bow in a year once you have built a solid foundation in your form.

If you want to be very accurate and plan on shooting a lot of arrows to build up your form even 40# will be too much.

You like most archers will just build up in weight over the years. Starting out at 40# or greater is a big mistake though.

Truth be told a well placed shot from even a 30# pound bow has taken down many game and still has a lot of power.

For reference the last time I checked I can draw back 65# and hold at full draw for 30 seconds but I shoot a 45# bow at 27 1/2" so about 44# because I want to be in full control of the bow at all times and not the other way around.

A good goal is to go up 5# a year in draw weight.

There's a lot of people shooting 55 ~ 70# bow's in the trad community but chances are most of them are over bowed and the bow controls them which will account for accuracy issues.

Plus shooting should be a joy and pulling back a bow that controls you even the slightest is not fun and hard on the joints.

Offline dbd870

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #27 on: November 17, 2016, 07:57:00 AM »
I shot my daughters 35# bow some starting out as well as a 45# Grizzly. From day 1 I shot the Grizzly better. I think a little heavier bow pulls the string off you fingers better and makes for a cleaner release. I came from using a 60# wheel bow I do agree with those who say 40-45# is about right for those changing over.
SWA Spyder

Offline KeganM

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #28 on: November 17, 2016, 09:03:00 AM »
There are lots of ways to skin a cat. This is just my opinion based on my experience:

Accuracy and broadhead design and sharpness have killed more deer for me than draw weight. I'm 25, work out regularly, and used to shoot bows up to 90#. I've killed more deer with 45-50# than I ever did with the heavy stuff. Deer aren't that tough if you use a GOOD arrow and broadhead. I like the big Simmons two-blades, and still get almost all pass throughs. Can't kill 'em if I can't hit 'em though!

Almost everyone I've met coming from a compound could handle 60% of their peak comfortable weight, so you should be fine. Your draw should also wind up longer than your compound as you get comfortable since there's no D-loop or release in the way. Draw length can offer more power than draw weight alone.

I think no matter what you choose you'll be good. Just focus on your shooting, set up a solid arrow, and maybe err towards 45-50# rather than 55#. It's your bow and your journey though, so just have fun with it!

Offline Alexander Traditional

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #29 on: November 17, 2016, 09:22:00 AM »
You will really like hunting with a trad bow. I think like some of the others. If you could hold that training band for that long and are in really good shape,and have been shooting compounds. I don't think you would have any problem starting at 50 pounds at your draw. I started out at 45 pounds and wasn't in very good shape,and now shoot 55 and 60 pound. I don't think you would be under bowed with a 45 pound,but think you would be out of it very quickly.

Offline Bladepeek

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #30 on: November 17, 2016, 10:48:00 AM »
I'm not going to get into the bow weight discussion. I'm an old man who has grown comfortable with a reduced draw weight.

I will say that you will find trad bows somewhat more critical of spine than your compound, if for no other reason, the compound is center shot. You didn't specify the spine of those arrows you are looking at, but don't make the mistake of going too stiff. I would say 500 spine with that 200gr up front will probably work fine. If necessary you can play with the total weight to get them flying right. 400 spine would be way too stiff for a 50# bow drawn 27" I think.

Big Jim is a great source of shafts and arrows and whether you buy there or not, I'd get his opinion on the best arrow set-up once you decide on a bow.
60" Bear Super K LH 40#@28
69" Matt Meacham LH 42@28
66" Swift Wing LH 35@28
54" Java Man Elk Heart LH 43@28
62"/58" RER LXR LH 44/40@28

Offline dbd870

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #31 on: November 17, 2016, 03:06:00 PM »
Agreed; I shoot 500 spine with 200gr up front with  45/46# bows.
SWA Spyder

Offline Ram_n_arrows

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #32 on: November 17, 2016, 04:17:00 PM »
Yes those arrows are 500 spine.
Its funny I know a whole lot about compounds and getting my spine and arrow weight correct. I know squat about trad.  Can't wait to start this journey.

Everyone has a different opinion on how to leave the bow too. Do I unstrung it after every use?

Offline hawkeye n pa

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #33 on: November 17, 2016, 06:21:00 PM »
I didn't read every thread but I would by a used/or off brand bow of  45# and start shooting now then in a few months order your 55# bow and work into it, even if just by drawing and holding with out shooting.  

Enjoy the journey!!!  Your transistioning from a  "science to a art".  Be patient.
Jeff
>>>>---------->
Fear of the Lord is the beginning of Wisdom.

Offline Rough Run

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #34 on: November 17, 2016, 06:33:00 PM »
Some leave their bow(s) strung for long periods of time but, I have never done that.  It just seems logical to me that the less tension the limbs are under, the better for the durability and longevity of the said limbs & bow, whether recurve or longbow.  I unstring at the end of the day, always.

Offline longstiks

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #35 on: November 19, 2016, 07:53:00 AM »
I don't know how far it is from the north shore to the south shore but of you could get together with Tajue17 and shoot some different bows it might give you a better idea of what you want to get. It's always better to try for yourself than to just go on other's advice, just my two cents.
Denny

Offline beendare

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #36 on: November 19, 2016, 10:00:00 AM »
I'm in starting light camp....I made the mistake of starting too heavy coming from 80# compounds....its just different. 35-40# is a good starting weight imo...sometimes lighter. Its worth it even if you have to get a cheap starter bow.

Its not that you aren't strong enough to pull a 50# bow...its that you need time to develop the fine muscle control to hold and aim it. I see a lot of guys at shoots and such that never even get to full draw...snap shooting.

Some guys do Ok with this...but they will never have the accuracy of someone with a solid anchor and backtension pulling through the release.

Its worth having a coach show you the right way to shoot..as bad habits are hard to break- i've Been There- grin [and I guarantee there are a lot of guys nodding their heads reading this]
You don't drown by falling in the water; you drown by staying there.”
― Edwin Louis Cole

Offline Tyler C. Moore

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #37 on: November 19, 2016, 10:22:00 AM »
Let me know if I can help. I'm only a few miles away from you when I'm not working in the city, and can help with most questions you will have.

I'll be crazy busy hunting and working until after the holidays. But should be able to find time to shoot with you or help in any way I can .
Tyler C. Moore

Offline YosemiteSam

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Re: Switching from compound to recurve.
« Reply #38 on: November 21, 2016, 07:28:00 PM »
I'll tell a bit of my story and what has worked & let you decide what (if anything) to do with it.  At age 14 I got my first bow -- a compound but pretty much shot with my fingers.  I worked up to about 67# and by the time I was 16, I was putting 6/6 arrows on a 3x5 card & hitting pie plates at 80 yards -- not bad for shooting fingers, I think.  But I hated how fragile everything was.  One hiccup and the system fails.  And since 99.999% of hunting is just walking around in the woods, I wanted something lighter and simpler.  So I picked up a used 53# Browning recurve & tried my hardest to shoot traditional.  Never could get the hang of it and that recurve was a beast to hold at full draw.  At the time, I weighed about 160 lb and could bench 275 lb so I wasn't a scrawny kid.  Then college happened and that pretty much ended archery for me.

Fast forward 20+ years & I've learned a few things.  Form first.  I bought a Samick Sage so I could scale the limbs up and down as my strength and skills progress.  I started with 30# and even that was a challenge.  For perspective, the years have been kind to me so far and although I don't think I could bench 275 right now, I'm in better shape today than I was back then.  30# was a good starting place to work on form.  I also got a clicker.  Once I could group consistently at 20 yards with that 30# & kid arrow setup, I went up to 45# limbs.  That was a big jump & took some practice before I got my form back.  I probably should have done only 40#.  I now have a set of 50# limbs but pretty much only use my 45# limbs to hunt with.  By the way, I draw about 27" so we're about the same there.

For me, it helps to forget about what I think I'll want or need 5 years from now and focus on what I need to work on today.  With dedicated practice, it will take a couple months to get your form down and scale up to the next level.  At about $75 for each limb set, it's worth scaling up slow.  A Samick Sage isn't something to brag about but it gets the job done just fine -- much like a used Ford will get you from point A to B just as well as a new Mercedes (European Ford).  Whether it's a PSE, Ragim or some other brand doesn't matter too much at this point.  Focus on form & technique.  Pro athletes aren't good because of their equipment -- they're good because they've practiced a ton.  So a light bow (max 35#) will help you get the skills you need to be a good archer so that you can actually do something with that 50# bow when you finally get it.  I may upgrade to something nicer at some point but for now, it works.  Besides, I've started enjoying selfbows (I'm not the best bowyer) so maybe I'm regressing.

One last thing -- I wanted to learn instinctive but never could get the consistency I wanted.  Granted, I can't reliably hit anything with a thrown rock either so maybe that's my problem.  Gapping has worked well for me so far.  It isn't nearly as sexy as instinctive shooting.  But it's darned reliable.    Try all the methods & find what works.  Top-down methods (I like this therefore I will make this work) are always less reliable than trial and error (I use this because I've found it to work better for me).  Who knows, you may find yourself face walking with a horsebow and thumb ring many years from now.  It doesn't really matter.  Enjoy the journey!
"A good hunter...that's somebody the animals COME to."
"Every animal knows way more than you do." -- by a Koyukon hunter, as quoted by R. Nelson.

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