how do you tune

[nhbuck1]

so how do you guys tune your arrows, explain your methods, would be intresting to hear how you get your broadheads to fly the same

[crazynate]

I use the bare shaft method. If my bare shafts are grouping with my fletched shafts out to 20 yards then I shoot broad heads and see how they fly. Sometimes with a bigger head like a delta you need just a little bit of micro tuning with your nock point. I do this by shooting through paper. I know guys say it isn't  needed and I used to think that to but I think it does help. Just remember to keep it simple. Your dealing with spine and nock height that's it. Don't overthink it. There is a great video by diamondback archery on YouTube describing the process. I've watched it over and over. Very helpful for tuning.also look up arrow tuning guide on eastons website that goes more into detail about micro tuning and grouping broad heads.

[nhbuck1]

how can you do this if you shoot instinctive? wont your brain figure out if arrow is grouping left or right and adjust for the grouping to where you are looking?

[Bowwild]

I paper tune, just like with my compound (6' away from framed paper). Been doing it this way ever since I realized tuning was necessary which was around 1980, about 10 years AFTER I got into archery. I used to blame wind-plaining arrows on broad heads!

I proof the tuning a couple of ways:
1. Shooting at distance (20 yards) and observing arrow flight.
2. Shooting a broadhead tipped arrow followed by a couple of field points, they should group the same.

I adjust for nocking point first and the left and right.  I'm careful about shaft selection to make sure I'm in the ball park.  I adjust LR with insert and point weight tinkering. Rarely do I have to manipulate side plate and when I do, it is of very little use.

I tried bare shaft tuning a few times. For sure it works, but no better than my paper tuning and I can paper tune with fletching attached.

[nhbuck1]

so all you need to be to paper tune is 6 feet away? i wss thinking of trying this when my new arrows come so i dont have to ruin the fletching on one to get a bare shaft, so a bullet hole with paper should be the correct spine and weight meaning your tuned? put a broadhead on your good to go? ever have any issues with broadhead flight doing this?

[nhbuck1]

also do you paper tune with a cant? i trying to figure out how you can group the bareshaft together with fieldpoints shooting instinctive, i think the brain would take over impact point , id like some other options thanks to all

I make arrows for my friends and family.  Only one of them wants aluminum arrows, all the rest want wood, so I keep a variety of spines on hand.  When someone wants arrows for a particular bow and head weight I make a couple, we shoot them.  Besides playing around a little with brace heights on recurves now and then, the one that flies right wins.   People's draw lengths can grow if they are new shooters.  Likewise people's draw lengths can be shorter in real use than the draw lengths that they measured, even though their form is on the whole fine.  In those cases, changes in point weights have been enough to fix the problem.  I give new shooter that do not have their form settled in and extra for their first set. More often than not when someone with less experience says the arrows shoot one way or the other, it is them and not the arrow if the spine is anywhere near close.

[mec lineman]

I've been reading all your post and here is the first thing that comes to my mind. I don't think your ready to fine tune yet, I think you need to spend more time getting use to shooting a bare bow. If your shooting is inconsistent, fine tuning will only cause you more grief. This is just my opinion and I hope you understand why  I'm saying this. If your arrows are close in spine target shoot till u get confident.  Just my two cents, please don't take it as insult. One more question,how long have you been regularly shooting a stick bow?

[nhbuck1]

i shoot nearly everyday for 3 years now, my shooting is good, i am just trying to get my broadheads fly the same as field points and looking for new methods besides bareshaft flight

[njloco]

I have never bare shafted to tune arrows, I have always paper tuned, that being said, I have never had to tune when switching from field tip to broad head though I always check that they fly the same, maybe I've just been lucky.

I've been told that this could be because I am lucky enough to have good form and a pretty smooth release, though I do work hard for both.

[beendare]

I bareshaft tune at 6,12 and 20 yds. If my bareshaft is low of the fletched group, I raise my nokking point, etc.

I don't worry so much about what angle the BS is at...but only its location.

When you get it right...the bareshaft floats to the target without a lot of wiggle.

Once bareshaft tuned, My BH's fly to same POA as my FP's...assuming your arrow is assembled properly

[oldrubline]

I like bare shaft tuning and have not bothered with paper tuning for awhile.  I just like the fact that I can keep a bare shaft in my quiver and check my flight of that arrow at any time or any distance.  If I got a bare shaft flying into the fletched group nicely at hunting ranges I am good to go.  I mostly make my own hardwood shafts.  When its time for a new set I consider that my form and release may have changed over time. Therefore, I start with a new hardwood shaft slightly overspined. I'll shoot it for a few nights  watching its flight carefully.  I always shoot it just as I would in a hunting situation with cant and different positions. I figure no use doing something totally different than the way I am actually going to be shooting it.  When I am convinced that I am shooting that arrow nock right consistently and to the same degree, I'll start reducing its spine by placing it in a drill and sanding it down.  Next I shoot some more over a few days and repeat until its where I want it. Now I finish my other shafts to the same length and same mark on the spine tester.  The rest of the project entails fletching some of them up and making sure they still all shoot the same place...

Dan

[oldrubline]

....that is, fletched and bare shafts going to same spot on the target!

Dan

[myshootinstinks]

I came to the conclusion long ago that Kelly is right.  I have many arrows of all different spines in the shop. I don't bare-shaft. I simply pick a variety of arrows of different spines and go shooting. If I'm wanting a hunting arrow w/ broadhead I do the same thing. It's fairly easy to recognize good arrow flight. If it flies well and hits where you look why get overly technical about the process?
     http://www.arrowskp.com/Kelly_s_Tips.html

[DarrinG]

Paper tuning don't work for me, and I don't think it works for most people unless they are shooting with some sort of a release aid. I bare shaft tune and find it works for me. However, if you have a perfect release every time, paper tuning may work just fine for you.

Originally posted by Bowwild:
I paper tune, just like with my compound (6' away from framed paper). Been doing it this way ever since I realized tuning was necessary which was around 1980, about 10 years AFTER I got into archery. I used to blame wind-plaining arrows on broad heads!

I proof the tuning a couple of ways:
1. Shooting at distance (20 yards) and observing arrow flight.
2. Shooting a broadhead tipped arrow followed by a couple of field points, they should group the same.

I adjust for nocking point first and the left and right.  I'm careful about shaft selection to make sure I'm in the ball park.  I adjust LR with insert and point weight tinkering. Rarely do I have to manipulate side plate and when I do, it is of very little use.

I tried bare shaft tuning a few times. For sure it works, but no better than my paper tuning and I can paper tune with fletching attached.

Thanks for saving me the time to type all that out. That^^^^^^^^ is exactly how I do it.

Bisch

[slowbowjoe]

As above, X3. But I usually skip the paper tuning in the first place and observe flight (also strike plate and shelf plate wear) from around 20 yards.

[crazynate]

Shooting instinctively doesn't affect  where your arrow will hit when you tune. Aim at a spot and shoot 3 fletched and 3 bare and see where they group. Start with spine first them do nock point second. Also if you shoot through paper don't can't your bow. Keep it straight up and down.

[mahantango]

"how can you do this if you shoot instinctive?" One more reason to aim.

[The Whittler]

Doing what the OP asked for I use bare shaft tuning like Ken Beck of Black Widow describes. It's simple and works.