Wood arrows.....

[FITTER]

Parallel, tapered, footed.... etc. Ive shot aluminum or carbon arrows so all this is greek to me. But I no longer want to shoot those but rather cedars so school a greenhorn on wood arrows please

[Fletcher]

Although I prefer and shoot tapered arrows, parallel shafts make very good arrows.  Cedar is a fine arrow wood but I believe Douglas Fir shoots better, is more durable and these days the quality of the fir is much better.  Check TG sponsor Surewood Shafts.  Sitka Spruce from Hildebrand is very good also.

[Anointed Archer]

It's hard to beat a good set of matched cedar arrows, like Fletcher mentioned you will need to be a little choosey on selecting your raw shafts. I have also been very pleased with Chundo shafts but they seem to be getting hard to find as well.

[Jim Wright]

A personal opinion here but as has been stated, fine Cedar shafting is hard to beat. That said, for me it has proven hard to obtain. I have gotten some occasionally from Rod Kelley in Kalispell, MT. (Mountain Top Traditional Arrows) but other times and from other suppliers have gotten some that was disappointing. I have and still shoot Douglas Fir from Surewood Shafts that is consistently excellent plus in quality and customer service. I have also dealt a couple of times with Hildebrandt to use Sitka Spruce and was satisfied there as well.

[KevinK]

I am also interested in trying out wood arrows. So if anyone can post a link to something that would help noobs out that would be great. I plan on starting with pre-finished first then just cut, taper the ends, fletch and go. But what stumps me is I read different conflicting things on how the direction of the grain is supposed to be? Maybe they are all saying the same thing but it sure reads conflicting. Pictures of this would be helpful. Also, spine selection. Seems simple but I have 1 recurve cut before center and it likes a really weak arrow for it's weight. Is there a spine range not to go below for the draw weight of the bow? Ex my bow is 44# @28.5, is 40-45 safe? 35-40 still safe? Sorry if it looks like I hijacked but still on topic, I suppose.

[Orion]

Kevin:  The supplier you buy the shafts from should be able to offer the correct spine with a little more information, e.g., your draw length, desired arrow length, desired point weight, type of string material, etc.  You might consider getting a test pack of different spines. Assuming a standard point weight of125 grains, and a draw length of 28 inches or so, 45-50# will probably work.  Might want to try a test pack that will give you spines 5# lower and 5# higher.

Regarding the grain orientation.  You want to affix the nock on the arrow so it positions the parallel grain perpendicular to the side of the bow.  Or, stating it another way, the Vs formed by any grain run out should be on the top or bottom of the arrow when it is on the string and resting on the bow shelf.  

The end of the arrow with the most grain run out should be used as the point end.  The grain run out is most subject to warping and can be straightened more easily on that end of the arrow.  Can be done if it's on the nock end of the arrow, but that usually involves mashing the feathers.  Of course, on premium arrows, there should be no or very little grain run out.  If the grain runs completely across the arrow from one side to the other, they're better used as tomato stakes, but there is some of that bad wood out there so buyer beware.  

The Vs, if on the top of the arrow should be pointing away from the string toward the front of the arrow.  They should be pointing toward the string, rear of the arrow, if on the bottom of the arrow.  In the rare instance in which the arrow might break, this orientation usually allows the splintered wood to clear the bow without hitting the bow arm. Good luck.

[McDave]

Orion's writeup is very helpful, and I'm going to save it to remind myself of some things I forget, like which way the V's should point.  I'm sure that half of them point the wrong direction on arrows I have made in the past.

As to spine, it varies, just like it does when tuning a bow using carbon or aluminum arrows.  It varies more, perhaps, with wood arrows, as I suspect more wood arrows than carbon or aluminum are used with bows not cut to or past center.  For a bow cut shy of center, start your testing with an arrow with a lower spine than the bow weight.  For a bow cut past center, start your testing with an arrow spine at or above bow weight.  Of course, point weight and length affects dynamic spine too, as with all arrows.

[Russ Clagett]

Rob Distefano did a great tutorial on woodies some time ago..if you'll do a search for it you should get alot of info from that.

Wood is the way!

[KevinK]

Great info thanks. Now maybe I need to look at a wood arrow shaft up close or look at a wood dowel for reference. I have read to look at the nock end before tapering it. That grain on the edge should be perpendicular to the string. Would the above mentioned and what Orion said both be true at the same time? This is where I get confused without pictures, I think people are talking about the same thing just referencing it a different way. Aren't the V's grain run out? I'm sure I'm probably over thinking this of course.

[Captain*Kirk]

The OP didn't specify whether he wanted to make his own woodies or buy them pre-made. If pre-made, there are a number of good options as well. PM me for more info if you need it. I have several recommendations and I'm sure there are sponsors here that build excellent arrows as well.

[FITTER]

Some great information gentlemen.... I really appreciate this alot.... and it will get me to shooting wood arrows

[Ray Lyon]

Paul Jalon at Elite Arrows (sponsor here) makes as fine of a wood arrow as you'll be able to find. Contact him through the contact information in the sponsors section and he can help you with selection.  You'll be able to find some less expensive at 3-Rivers or Kustom King, but you won't find better.

Ray

[FITTER]

[Orion]

Kevin: What you said the second time is the same thing I said.  If you look at the nock end, you should see the grain as a lot of parallel lines.  Visualize the arrow as sitting on the arrow shelf.  When those lines are oriented horizontally on the arrow shelf when the bow is held vertically, they' re perpendicular to the side of the bow. (This is usually the stiffest orientation of the arrow.) When you do that the Vs will be on the top and bottom of the shaft.  And yes, the Vs are grain run out, the fewer of them the better.

[the rifleman]

You can't go wrong with Rod Kelly or Surewood.  They are both excellent to deal with and very knowledgeable.

[KevinK]

Orion,
This is exactly what I was looking for and now it makes sense. Thanks so much. I will probably start with pre-finished shafts from 3R to start. I will cut, taper, fletch and add nocks myself. Now for gluing on nocks the 3R blog says to use whatever you use for fletching cement. I use fletch tape and a drop of goat tuff on the back of the feathers (I like helical). Is goat tuff good for gluing on nocks? It's basically CA based glue if not familiar.

[Orion]

GT should work if it doesn't melt the nocks.  Test one. I use Duco cement (available at most hardware stores) or Bohning fletch tite.

[curlis]

Elite arrows by Paul Jalon. All you will ever need.