Tuning what changes to make (pic)

[acollins]

What does this mean. What changes do I need to make. I'm shooting an Omega Original 43@27.5. I shoot right handed. I am drawing 27.5. The arrows are Gold Tip Traditionals 600 spine 30.5 inches long, regular insert, 125 grain point 4 fletch 5" feathers.

[MnFn]

What distance did you shoot at?

[acollins]

12 yards

[rraming]

too weak - hack em off or reduce tip weight

[Roy from Pa]

That's perfect. Don't do anything.. Adding fletching to the arrows will make them a tad stiffer.

[A.S.]

Originally posted by rraming:
too weak - hack em off or reduce tip weight

I would personally cut 1/4" at a time off until I got it flying a little straighter, then back up to 20 yards to fine tune even further.

[KevinK]

Agree with Roy. 5" 4 fletch (approx 14 grains) might even push it into the stiff side a little depending on the bow. If you want to get crazy weigh the difference with and without fletching. Then cut off some electrical tape and put it onto the back of the bareshaft to match the weight of the fletched arrow.

[MnFn]

I agree with getting them to hitting a little straighter, then moving back to 20 yards. (If this is indicative of how they repeatedly compare to each other)

But Roy is right - they will get a little stiffer when you fletch them. So go slowly. I almost ruined some FMJ's by tuning to far before fletching them.

I think you want the bare shafts hitting slightly low and to the right before you fletch. If you shoot that consistantly.

[South MS Bowhunter]

They are hitting the same spot, so wouldn't they be good?

I've always heard not to worry with how the shaft tilt L,R,up or down as long as the bare shaft tunes together with your fletched shafts.

Now I like to get mine as close to straight as possible, but form could cause some of that variation.

How consistent are the bare shaft groups with tilting L or R?

[the rifleman]

I agree with others--too weak.  At 15 yds I like to have them show a little weak, then work my way out to 30 yds.  30 really shows movement to indicate stiff or weak.  I believe these arrows will work well for you as you have plenty of room to shorten them-- it doesn't take much shortening to stiffen carbons a quarter inch makes a big difference-- go slow-- I enjoy tuning and tend to play with a new arrow over the course of several days, just to be sure I am getting reliable results and not having form issues on a given day.  My final tune bareshaft shows fletched and bare hitting same spot with just a slight weak ( 1/2 to 1 inch) nock offset at 15 yds and arrows impacting same at 30.  Wraps and fletching will stiffen, so bareshaft w wraps if using.  Good luck.

[KevinK]

I would try out a little further before changing anything, 15, 18 then at least 20. If you're speed is slow enough you can see how the bareshaft flies. In fact I say this now that I would wait, try further, try every couple days like rifleman says but my lack of patience would get the best of me and I would end up being too stiff. I try to get my arrows a tad on the weak side. When tuning I seem to be more aware of my draw anchor. If I'm just shooting or hunting, I can get sloppy and I hope the weaker arrow compensates for the slop.

[crazynate]

I have found sometimes I need to step back and rest a day before tuning again. I have ruined arrows because I was to impatient and I didn't make sure they were exactly how I want them. Looks like your close though.

[last arrow]

To answer, we need to know how tight of groups you can shoot at 12 yards.  If your arrows are normally touching at twelve yards you may be a little weak.  If that is the normal size of your group it may mean you are very close to tune. I would go back to 20 yards and see which direction the bare shafts moves before deciding to cut.  As Nate said, I would then give it a day and see if I get the same results.  I try not to worry about how the bare shaft leans in flight and only about where it impacts relative to the fletched shaft (especially with carbon).  Once they are impacting together use fletched shafts and compare a field tip to a broadhead.  My goal is for field tip and broadhead to group together at all yardages.

[creekwood]

Your photo is showing a lot of weak shaft assuming that you are shooting those same two arrows over and over and you are getting repeatable results.

[Bladepeek]

I would also add that 2 arrows don't prove a thing. If this is representative of what ten groups look like, then maybe a change is in order. I second (or 3rd or 4th?) moving back to 20 yards. Any difference will be much more apparent. Quite honestly, if I could consistently shoot groups that tight at 12 yards, I'd call my arrows tuned

[creekwood]

I would also like to know if the target rotated a little after the first arrow hit.  It appears that neither arrow shaft is perpendicular to the target surface (one arrow is left the other right).  Were you standing in a position that the flight would be perpendicular?  If so, there would seem to more going on than your photo shows (wind, form problems, etc).

[Jackpine Boyz]

I would agree with the thought of giving it a day and stepping back further as well.  The group above if consistent is in the ball park enough that fletchings should take care of the rest, especially if a FLETCHED arrow with broadhead is in that same group.  
Not knowing your accuracy level in general also makes feedback harder.  You could see that variance with subtle form changes, so consistency is key.  

Paper tuning would be another useful tool.
A sheet of newspaper or butcher taped paper over a cardboard box with the bottom cut out works well.

[acollins]

I moved back to 20 and can't really hold a tight group. I'm gonna give it some time and work on form before I do anything. Thanks for all the great info.

[rraming]

That's the issue with bare shaft planing. You can bare shaft tune by adjusting based upon nock direction. As others mentioned, check it next day before hacking em off.

[kennym]

Or put a paper match under the side plate and see what happens.....

This will stiffen the way the arrow flies, and you haven't cut them off.....