Wood arrow tuning...can this be right??

[flyflinger]

A question for the wood arrow guys. I bought a test pack (actually 2) from Surewood. I have shot spines from 45-75, hence the 2 test packs. The best paper tuning I get is from a 70-75# spined arrow cut to 28.5" bop, 125gr head.
My set up is a Java Man recurve 49#@28" (drawing 28") not center cut.
This is my first attempt at wood arrows so forgive me if this is a dumb question. But does this sound like a reasonable spine weight for this poundage of bow?
I tried lighter spines and cut them as short as possible and couldn't get good flight. Don't really want to drop to a lighter head just to use a lighter spine.
Thanks for any input. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't somehow totally off base before taking the time to make up a batch of arrows.

[Sam McMichael]

Sounds a bit heavy for me. I shoot 125 or 145 grain points on almost all my arrows. The complication for me is that I have a short draw, (only 25"), but like long arrows. For example, I have 2 NM Sheltons, both 53# at 28" draw. My arrows are 50 - 55# spine, at 29" length, for both these bows. These arrows also work on my 50# Big Five and my 55# Cheetah. Also, 55 - 60# works on the Sheltons and Cheetah as well.

The only bows I have that likes 70 - 75# spine are my HHA Wesley Specials with 190 grain points. They are 65# at 28" draw.

This merely shows that your bow may handle a wider range of spines than you might expect. If your arrows are shooting well with arrows at that spine, don't worry about what "they" say. Shoot what you like and what works well for you. I certainly am no expert on anything, but I have found that I get a wide range of usable spines with wood that I did not get way back in the days when I used arrows of other construction.

As others respond, you will see that people experience very different spine preferences in bows very close to the specs of your bow.

[BAK]

Doesn't sound reasonable, no.

[snag]

Way too heavy. I like going 1" over draw length = 29" bop. If the shelf is not cut to center it really depends on how far from center. If it's 1/8" before center you can reduce spine by 5# = 44# spine. Then if shooting FF string you can add 5# = 49#.  All this being true I'd try 50/55 cut to 29" bop with 125gr pts.

[Bladepeek]

Your Java Man isn't center cut? The ones I've seen are pretty close. Actually cut a bit past center so that the sideplate makes it pretty close to center.

[snag]

If cut to center add 5-10# spine.

[WarDancer]

whatever shoots good out of your bow at your weight and release. sometimes it just does not make much sense.lots of variables.

[Pine]

I shoot that exact arrow setup out of my bow and it's 43# @ 28" .

[Brock]

recurves add some weight....being center shot adds weight.....low stretch strings add weight....and the way you release can affect and require more weight to your spine.  it is entirely possible that you would need that arrow.

50# bow for all practical purposes...
add 5# for recurve
add 5# for fast flight string
add 5# for center shot

I like being slightly more stiff in spine weight for a center shot recurve anyhow....so if it was me I would try65-70 or 70-75 spine range.

If you are getting good arrow flight after you fletch one up and shoot it as well as you did with bare shafting...then dont stress it just enjoy shooting your bow and arrow combo.  There is no EXACT SCIENCE.....and you as the shooter affect it as well.
already we are at 65-70# spine weight range.

It could be that the arrow is merely being shoved, but in the shot process the bow is getting out of the way of the arrow, so any shelf skidding is minimized.   If you take a long shot and the arrow is flying clean and visually on line, probably good enough.  However,  when you take a long shot and the arrow is flying loggy and seems to be sliding off line, ignore the hole in the paper and assume it is too stiff.  A clean hole in the paper just tells you the state of that arrow with that shot at that distance.  The final judgement has to be  in a real shot and a long shot allows you to see more of what is going on.

[MnFn]

Right now at 15 yards I am shooting 65/70 - 70/75 out of my 55# Tall Tines. 70/75 appears to be better, but when it warms up and sunny outside I will shoot them at longer ranges.

[slowbowjoe]

That would definitely be too heavy a spine for my 48# Falcon, drawn 28", 29"BOP with 125's. But then Graps does fine with the same set up, and I trust his input.

Does your strike plate show wear from the arrows? Have you eyeballed the flight with broadheads, out to, or past, 20 yds? Only putting these out as other ways to gauge your tune, should the paper tuning be a little misleading somehow (as in the arrow not paradoxing yet, or such).

But again, if it works well for you, go with what you've got.

[tecum-tha]

Fast Flight +10# spine. I assume it is cut like a longbow which should be 3/16" before center.
Now it depends a bit on your bows performance, but I would think a 60-65# should be able to fly well around 29" BOP length. Would also try out some 145 and 160 grain heads.
I think 70# is too stiff.
Now, I don't know how good your release is, but there is also a personal form factor. Did you shoot any other arrow successfully out of this bow? Aluminum or Carbon?

[Onehair]

It could have something to do with your release. For years I shot 90# out of my Black Widow. When I finally sold it 20 years latter 65# shafts flew just fine. Shoot what works

[flyflinger]

Thanks for the feedback guys.
To answer a few questions: strike plate shows no wear at all.
I haven't shot a broadhead with this shaft yet. I have shot outdoors, 20 yards, arrow flight looked good.
I have shot carbons out of this bow. Get the best flight from Beman MFX 400 30" w/ same 125 head.
Don't think this would affect the spine choice at all but I shoot 3 under as well.

[Matty]

I shoot 55# out of my new helms deep which is 50#@28 they are cut 29.5"
 I had a hell of a time getting mine to tune. I got a new string and put on a double nocking point.