Best flying broadheads

[Friend]

No issues with BH flight.

Excellent flight with large sniffers and even larger Big 3's.

Have been shooting the wide Tree Sharks for quite some time. The flight is excellent and no additional tuning  beyond previous bare shaft tuning was required. Haven't tested beyond 35 yards, however they are spot-on with my field points at that range.

[two4hooking]

If you like a Hill head you can sharpen easier try the Hunter Head.  
 


Best of both worlds and you can do this if your state allows barbed heads:

 

I find that even my most most all thumbs friends can get a Hill hunting sharp with a 1/4" round Grobet file. What I showed is similar to what Nate does, just ending in a hard pull with the file reversed like Hill would do when putting on a serration, but at a flush angle to raise a burr.  Not exactly a shaving edge, but the deer and hogs that they have taken didn't seem to know that.  The Hunter's Heads are cheaper to buy than the Hills, and as far as I can tell are just as effective on deer.

[Pointer]

From my own experience I'd have to say is the old Bear Razorheads. They fly well from any bow I've ever owned

[FlintNSteel]

Not to sound like too much of a smart a** but the kind that has the right amount of fletch on the other end.      

I've always been a proponent of enough fletch...4" four fletch, 5 1/2" 3 fletch, good helical on them.  I haven't found a broadhead yet in over 45 years of shooting broadheads that would not shoot with either of those on a properly spined shaft...and not only do they fly well, they hit where the field points do.

So that leaves me with being able to shoot what I like and over the years, a good Zwickey Delta is hard to beat for price or performance.

True that balance between fletch and head design, gets the job done most of the time.  I have seen things happen in high quartering and cross winds that have surprised me.  With  a lot of feather and a large head, and arrow can drift more, but things really catch ones attention when they take crazy side steps.  That is when a Hill head will out perform a head like the ones that I had at the time, the large Magnus.  A strong quartering tail wind with the wind buffeting off of a steep slope.  After I missed the first shot and the deer bolted, I took a second test shot with a Hill on the arrow, it was good and on the mark, then one with the wide solid Magnus and jumped all over the place again.  Prior to that I believed they flew the same, but I guess it was a variable that I did not consider until it happened.  It was a really big buck and I can still vividly see that arrow taking that huge side step.  Good thing that side step was a complete miss.

[BWD]

The heads shot in combination with arrows.

[Bowwild]

I shoot a bunch of different ones out of two types of bows.  I haven't had any issues with getting any of them to fly from well tuned bow/arrow combos.  Of course it takes decent and consistent form to get the tuning right.

Lot different from the 1970s and 1980s!

[Terry Green]

I don't recall having issues with any head..... but all my arrows over the years have been tuned.

Form work will do more for accuracy than some head.

have fun

[David McLendon]

I'm a stickler for bare shaft tuning, I use the Simmons Tree Shark most of the time and with good tuning and careful mounting I have had no issues with flight, and they are Hell when they get where they going.
My number two head is the 160gr Snuffer, they have the death whisper inflight but flight is true and they also make for short blood trails.

[Bill Carlsen]

For what it is worth ....when I shot off the shelf there were a number of heads that gave me fits. When I went back to an elevated rest I haven't had any trouble with any head of the weight that matched my tuned field points. In addition, I don't think I have lost only two deer in that time after going back to the elevated rest. For me that has been the biggest factor in getting good flight, increased accuracy  and a giant leap in recovered game.

[Orion]

Hmmm.  Let me see.  Zwickey (any model) Magnus, (any model), STOS, Abowyer, Woodsman, Hill and a few others.  They're all the best.    

[DarrinG]

Like several others have said, get the bow/shaft tuned right, mount the head straight with no wobble and keep good form and all quality heads will shoot good. Once my bow/shaft was tuned correctly, I have had zero issues with the biggest Snuffers and other big heads flying true.

[Bowhunter4life]

Originally posted by DarrinG:
Like several others have said, get the bow/shaft tuned right, mount the head straight with no wobble and keep good form and all quality heads will shoot good. Once my bow/shaft was tuned correctly, I have had zero issues with the biggest Snuffers and other big heads flying true.

/\\/\\/\\/\\
This!

Literally the tuning is key...  if your bow isn't tuned no broadhead is going to truthfully fly right...  But, if your bow isn't tuned correctly the narrower your head the better...  1"-1 1/8" heads will fly better then your 1 1/2" plus wide heads...  Simple physics...

As I found, an arrow may seem to fly fine in most conditions, but there are times when high gusting and swirling winds can cause any arrow to misbehave.  Those situations are best to be avoided and no shots attempted.

[catman1]

175gr Woodsman's for me with a 50gr brass insert. Works great at 18-20 yards on spot, works for me and my set up.

[Tedd]

I got some Centaur Big Game heads in the mail tonight.  We had a really windy evening so conditions were far from ideal. They are pretty big heads. Similar to Tree Sharks. As near as I can tell they fly as good as anything else. I find the tree sharks a little twichty but that could be in my head!

[BRITTMAN]

Magnus stingers have worked the best for me

[Tajue17]

my bows usually answer that question for me,,, its alot cheaper!

[hitman]

VPA 3 blades and Zwickeys 2 blade.