Issues with Brass Bullet Nose Arrow Points - glue on

[tooch]

Hi guys, I have some 5/16" shafts and have a taper tool for 5 degrees and can't get these guys to fit. Is there a trick to these ?

   Brass Bullet Nose Points at 3rivers

I have only every used typical steel glue ons with no issues.

I ordered the right size, they dont fit on my 11/32" either.

Do I just need to taper at 5 degrees and then simply cut off a bit of the tip so the field point fits flush?

While we are on the subject, what are your guy's favorite glue on field points for shooting mostly 3d foam.  My main target at home is a Delta Killzone if that factors anything in.


edit: READ THE LINK I know which taper for the end the pointy side gets....normally.

[Shadowhnter]

Ok wow just read the link. No idea. Sorry I can't help.  

[Fletcher]

5 degree is for points, 11 deg is nocks.  I like the big Kimsha stick for hot melt.  Most suppliers carry it.

[tooch]

I tapered the 11 degree... and cut a bit off and it fits a lot better... but not sure if I'm gonna get perfectly straight going that route.

Just the straight 5 degree like it says to do seems like not the best way.

[M60gunner]

This can happen with any points. Depends on how your taper tool is set up. Mine is set up not to have a " pointy" point. I used to cut off the pointy part but make sure the point seats all the way. Of course spin test them before gluing.

I actually like the screw on ones they have in that tip style. The tool used to put them on is a little pricey but remember that taper weakens the shaft. Some guys say this is why arrows break just behind the point?

Lately I have been installing the Top Hat brass points on my better arrows. No glue used but tools are pricey that are used to install points.

[Shadowhnter]

Originally posted by Fletcher:
5 degree is for points, 11 deg is nocks.

Lmao! They certainly are! Sheesh....what a day..

[Orion]

If you have to cut off some material, your taper tool is cutting the tapers too long and the blade needs to be adjusted.  

Also, need to be careful, slow and easy, in cutting the taper.  Pretty easy to get a less than perfect taper with a hand held tool, particularly on hardwoods and softwoods like Doug fir that have a big difference between winter and summer grain hardness.  That's why I use a sanding disk to grind my tapers.

Regardless, can still get them on straight.  Use a hot melt glue and spin the arrow and adjust the point if necessary before the glue hardens. Or, reheat the point a bit and adjust until you have it on straight.

[Paul/KS]

Originally posted by Shadowhnter:
 

Originally posted by Fletcher:
5 degree is for points, 11 deg is nocks.

Lmao! They certainly are! Sheesh....what a day.. [/b]

And it's still early...