New Morrison Recurve - Arrow Tuning Questions

[Yumi-75]

I just purchased a new bow. I want to tune it, previously I have hunted with a recurve and just bought arrows that were recommended by whoever I bought the arrows from. I am shooting 53# @28inches. I bought a test kit from 3 rivers with easton axis trads. I read a lot about EFOC, I have always just used a 100 grain field tip and/or broadhead. What should I start with to get me close to where I need to be? How many grains are you all shooting up front?

[McDave]

For that bow used for hunting, you're probably looking at a .400 spine arrow.  I like to hunt with a 150 grain broadhead, which isn't really EFOC, but you may find that to tune it you'll need a 175 or 200 grain point, which is getting up into the EFOC range, depending on how short you cut the arrow.  If you like 150 grains, then leave it full length and cut as needed to tune to 150 grains.  If you prefer a higher weight broadhead and your draw length is 28", you could just start by cutting to 29" and add weight until you get it tuned.

I think 100 grains is not adequate for what you want.

[Terry Green]

I've shot 175 grain head since the 80s. acronyms aside... I've never felt that a hundred grain Broadhead was enough Hardware for the heavy duty work that we do.

I've killed everything from bunnies to 2000 pound American Bison with them.

Accuracy is Paramount followed by Arrow flight ....don't get too caught up in the acronym craze..... there's really no need for someone new to be so overwhelmed and get paralysis through analysis when it's very very simple.

Learn to shoot and learn to get good arrow flight.... that's more important than worrying about what grain our heads are cuz you're going to hear all kinds of stuff... this going to do nothing but confuse you... please keep it simple and have fun.

[Michael Arnette]

What Terry said  

[Orion]

I agree that .400 axis shafts are probably what you'll need.  I have a 52# Morrison Shawnee with foam core longbow limbs.  I shoot .400 Axis shafts cut to 29 inches BOP for my 28-inch draw with 250 to 300 grains up front, usually a 100 grain brass insert and a 150-200 grain head, including adaptor. That will give you an arrow in the 560-610 grain range with about 23-24% FOC.  

Agree with others though.  At this point, just worry about getting your arrows to fly well.  You'll have plenty for deer size critters regardless of what the final arrow weight or FOC happens to be.  

Good luck.

[Rick Richard]

If you purchased the bow from Bob, then why not get his advice since he built the bow and knows them in and out. Just a suggestion.

I have one of his bows and he was spot on when helping me to set the bow up.

[Yumi-75]

Rick, I didn't think to ask him. Thanks for the advice.

[Bill Carlsen]

Bob is good about helping out.Be prepared to experiment with heavy heads.

[Yumi-75]

Yeah, he stated that he liked the micro diameter arrows with heavy heads up front. He stated that he has been shooting 300 grains up front and with my poundage, I would probably closer to 400. He also stated that he liked Black Eagle and VAP's for arrows.

[Yumi-75]

I know this is a can of worms, if you were buying new arrows, what would you go with?

[Orion]

I like Easton Axis.

[ThePushArchery]

I agree with Terry's comments completely.

Form and accuracy first.
Arrow tune and total mass weight very close second.
Then comes microtuning and the minutia if you're an arrow nerd like some of us that can't leave well enough alone...

Roughly 10gpp and a great flying bareshaft with the confidence to put it in the boiler room at your personal effective range. Those are the keys to success. Anything further is just icing on the cake.

[Yumi-75]

Can someone enlighten me on how to read the bow square? I am constantly knock high, I am shooting 3 under. And what is the masking tape for? I just received my new bow and this is the string that came on it. I emailed the bowyer he has yet to respond.  
 
   Bow Square

[Orion]

The square is marked in 1/16-inch increments, with 1/4-inch above level, and 1/4-inch below the top plane of the square arm indicated with the fraction 1/4.  Thus, your arrow is nocked almost 3/4-inch above the shelf, nocking under the red wrapped thread. The square arm is resting on the arrow shelf.  The 0 on the bottom base of the square corresponds to the underside of the bow arm.  You just read from the 0 upward.

This is a pretty typical nock point height for those shooting three under, but if you're constantly nock high, you could lower it a little, about 1/16-inch at a time, until the arrow leaves the bow straight.

The masking tape serves as a second nocking point to keep the arrow from slipping down the string at the shot.  I usually use masking tape for both nocking points because I can easily remove and change them.

[Bill Carlsen]

I  have a set of his ILF recurve limbs that are 54# at 28. I shoot 29" Axis 340's with 225-250 up front. Shoot great.

[creekwood]

Originally posted by Yumi-75:
I emailed the bowyer he has yet to respond.  
 
   Bow Square  

Don't email him. Call him. It may take several calls before he answers because he is a busy man. Keep trying. Bob is a joy to talk to and a good teacher.

[Yumi-75]

Thanks for everyone's input. I am getting it dialed in, Easton Axis 340 with 75 grain brass insert and a 250 grain field point. Do they make an outsert for the axis trad's? I purchased a new spyderweb target to practice in my basement, I have a hell of a time pulling my arrow. The tips I got were the tips in the kit from 3 rivers, they are tapered on the end but still are an issue...