broadhead tuning

[nhbuck1]

and what if the screw in are not lined up properly how do you fix them?

[DarrinG]

nhbuck1, If the BH in question is a model glued onto an adapter, just heat and loosen the glue and re-glue with it on the adapter straight. I prefer Ferrl-Tite for this instead of an epoxy. If it spin-tests crooked and it's a BH model that is built 1-piece, then check to make sure your shaft is cut straight and that the insert is glued in straight. If all that checks out good, then the BH itself would be the culprit and could be bent or out of straightness. If it's the BH itself (1 piece design, crooked ferrule), then that particular BH will end up in the metal recycle bin. If I ran across more than a couple 1-piece BH's that were manufactured out of straightness, then I'd seriously consider switching brands of BH's!

[nhbuck1]

vpas are one piece arent they?

[NY Yankee]

The rules I have come up with for shooting broadheads are 1. They must be the same weight (duh). 2. They must spin perfectly true. No amount of wobble is acceptable to me. I have simply thrown heads in the trash because they would not mount true. 3. I like to mount the heads horizontally in the belief that they will not catch so much air during paradox. 4. Always use helical fletching. 5. It doesn't really matter what broadhead you shoot, vented or non vented. Wind is wind and all heads will fly erratically in the wind. Wait til the gust dies down before you shoot. 6. Others will say different, but this is what works for me.

[longbow fanatic 1]

With carbon & aluminum arrows, I bareshaft tune my shafts against fletched arrows. If they group together then the same weight broadheads will group with your field tips.

With wood arrows, I watch the flight of the arrows out to 30-35 yards. When the arrows I setup are flying good, I compare broadheads  of the same field tip weight. My woodies currently group the same with field tips and BH's.