cant figure out these blems

[South MS Bowhunter]

Put a 175 point on with just a regular insert no extra wt. and see what you get.

Move your Noc point up about an 1/8 and see if that cures your nock high.  If not move it up some more till it goes away.

Of course this is all for nothing if your not consistent in your form.

[nhbuck1]

they dont fly good at all neither do the 500s

[M60gunner]

Have you tried cutting the 500's to stiffen them? If your a real 28" draw you can afford to cut some of that 30" shaft. You only need about an inch for BH.

[BWallace10327]

If you keep getting nock high it might just be that way for you.  One axis of confusion at a time.  Seems like you call a shaft weak and put more weight up front to stiffen it? Why not put a 125 on the 500 and see where that goes?

[nhbuck1]

i got a 200 grain head on the 400s that are impacting 2-3 inches left of the bareshaft im right handed, the bareshaft is not flying like a bullet though.i also get much better accuracy with the fletched with a heavier head on say 250 grains but the bareshaft flight is erratic idk what to do anymore

[Orion]

This isn't the first post where you report difficulty tuning arrows.  Are you sure your form is good enough for accurate results bare shafting?

Lighter front end or shorter .500s should work.  So should the .400s at 30 inches if you load them like you're loading the .500s.

[nhbuck1]

so am i still too weak? if i put a heavy head on the fletched they shoot very well but they dont group with the fletched

[nhbuck1]

just shot them at 25 yards bareshaft is impacting way right of fletched i dont see how a 400 spine would be so weak for a 50 lb bow

[DocWolf]

You need to lighten the point weight to stiffen the shaft or cut it down. Like others have said, don't worry so much about how the bareshaft is flying, instead focus on where it is impacting.
 
If I were only 2-3 inches off my fletched shafts at 25 yards, I would fletch them up and shoot. But I do not shoot competition, so 3 inches is still a kill on a deer.

As far as the spine goes, i shoot 48# at my draw, out of a Omega longbow and 400's are perfect, 500's will miss by a foot or more, so don't be afraid to play with the 400's or even stiffer spines.

[nhbuck1]

they fly great fletched from 250 grains and up

[Woodpuppy]

I get reasonable flight out of uncut fletched 400s and 500s from my 38# @28" longbow; I draw nearly 31" from a high wrist recurve, not really sure on the longbow. But bare shaft, the bow needs 400s. 500s are underspined even with 100 gr points. The good news is all my bows are happy with 400s using different weight points.

As has been said, if your arrows show weak, lighten up your point weight or start cutting the shaft down. I run uncut 32" shafts because of my draw length, so I handle tuning with weight. And 5.5" shield cut fletching, that'll stabilize about anything.

[nhbuck1]

so if y bareshaft fly like absolute crap but my fletched impact where they do or close there still good to shoot?

[nhbuck1]

how would they be weak out of a lighter bow and my heavier bow shoots the same head and flies perfect bareshaft? my other bow is 4 pounds heavier and alot faster

Originally posted by nhbuck1:
so if y bareshaft fly like absolute crap but my fletched impact where they do or close there still good to shoot?

FWIW, I never bareshaft, but I always buy / cut /tweak arrows that are verified close or perfect for my setup by using Stu's Calculator.  

I have had many different longbows, mostly ASL which vary greatly in length, draw weight and/or center cut.  Many different recurves, same thing...some cut to center, some way past center (actually measured, not eyeballed)

They are all different but all shoot just fine, stabilize quickly.

Good luck on your project!

[tomsm44]

How do you grip the bow?  The Super Griz is a lighter bow than the Bob Lee (assuming you have a TD).  I had an issue once with torquing the riser.  On my '66 Kodiak I was shooting, it had almost no impact on my shooting (that I noticed at the time).  I started shooting a Hoots recurve that is unbelievably slim and light weight, and I started getting extreme weak readings, but about one out of every five bare shaft shots would fly perfect.  That's how I learned that lighter mass weight bows exaggerate any issue with form.  After working out the torquing issue shooting the Hoots, my shooting improved with the Kodiak as well.  If nothing like that is going on, I'd say start cutting the shaft down a 1/4" at a time.  I have two vintage bows, 53&55#, but I only draw around 27-27 1/2".  Both of them show weak with 30" 400 spines if you go over 150 gr up front.  I shoot 31" 340s with 250 gr points.  I bet you could get yours working fine if you go down to 29-29 1/2" or so.

[kevsuperg]

I shoot the super grizzly  50@28.
 GT blems 5575 (400) 29 1/8" bop,  50 gr brass insert, 175 BH.
 They fly quite well.
 How's your form/release . I get false weak when I pluck the string.

[nhbuck1]

So its possible this bow likes a stiffer arrow vs my Lee? Even though its a lot lighter?

[katman]

YES! Feed the bow what it wants not what you want it to.

[Bldtrailer]

http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html
 
you can tune by making other changes building out a rest or going thinner/softer watch the vidio and fallow the bareshaft guild lines above it should help.

[indianalongbowshooter]

jmo but if your fletched arrows fly decent but your bare shafts fly horrible its more then likely bad form release etc.. fletching corrects a lot of mistakes. Just forget bare shafting and adjust your arrows to shoot good fletched..