Bear Archery Fans -- Help Me Pick a Bow

[woodchucker]

The K-Mag & SuperMag, are awesome bows, for folks with "normal" draw lengths. (28" & under) They really shine in a blind or tree stand! However... They seem to be less "forgiving" of a poor release, or bad form...?? I loved my 1967 K-mag, but the Grizzlys just seem to shoot & carry nicer with a bow quiver on them... JMHO

[Red Beastmaster]

"Actually, I was really considering the Takedown, but I heard they were not as powerful as the Super Kodiak's".

Not as powerful? What the heck does that mean?

[ahab78]

Not as powerful.

[Bud B.]

Originally posted by ahab78:
Not as powerful.

Are you close to Big Jim's? If so, go and ask if he has a chronograph you can use when test shooting bows.

45@28 is 45@28. Depending on how clean your release is, all bows equal in weight should be relatively close in speed of cast of an arrow weighing the same and properly tuned. Some designs are better at transferring the energy to the arrow which will increase arrow speed, but Bear bows are Bear bows. The Bear takedown was THE bow Fred Bear used once it was designed.

If you take a peek at the photo in my avatar, that is Fred's hand and his TD he was shooting in the mid 80s. The bow was well over a decade old when the photo was taken. There is no telling how many game animals fell to the "not as powerful" bow.

So, Red's question simply asked if you could clarify what you mean by "not as powerful", but in a colorful way.  

Do you mean speed? Kinetic energy? Or are you repeating only what you have heard? How informed was that opinion? There are many variables that can influence "not as powerful."

There are very seasoned and wise archers on here, many who were hunting and shooting in the 50s, and some maybe in the 40s. It's like listening to the 25 year Gunny we all hear about. He's been there and done that. He tries to steer the young boots down the correct path to success.

We are here to help.

[woodchucker]

Thank you, Bud! Well said...
There are some of us here, who have been "around awhile"... There are some things we hear & read, that to us "old guys" sound funny, & make no sense... (bare shaft tuning...? I always shot my arrows, with feathers on them?) I guess sometimes, we can seem a little "sarcastic", but as Bud said, we are all here to help!!!

[dbd870]

Really depends on what you want to do with it. If you aren't worried about a blind then a SuperK would be my choice. I have a blind that I turkey hunt out of and the only Bow I have that will work in it is the SuperMag; even a KMag is pretty clumsy in it. I shoot the Grizzly and SuperK about the same so I went with it just because it is a bit handier. I find 58" to be a good compromise length. You really need to shoot them for yourself though.

[Boone the Hunter]

I owned a beauty of a super K that I of course regret selling now. Both of my brothers shoot the new super K takedowns. One of them hunts and shoots his as his primary bow, shoots 3-4 deer and a turkey with each each year. He owns widows and a slew of other high end bows but he always says he shoots it so well and just likes it so much it's his go to bow. The things beat to piss from hard hunting and still solid as a rock. I haven't shot the new 59's but their beautiful and I'd love to own one at some point.

[Boone the Hunter]

Also depending on what your doing the takedowns so nice because it of course can be taken down. We canoe, backpack, bike, skydive (just kidding) into a lot of our spots and nothing beats a takedown for that. If I didn't need the takedown feature or intend on shooting different weight limbs needing multiple sets (I only shoot one weight) I like the look of one piece bows and sometimes they can be quieter. Not always but sometimes takedowns can get weird vibrations or rattles etc.. due to the design.

[David Mitchell]

Red Beastmaster, I own both a SK and TD in 45# draw weight and made within probably a year of each other (current production models)--same string material, etc.  I don't have a chrono but to my eye the SK is definitely  faster than the TD and seems to hit the target harder but I can't get it as quiet as the TD.  Don't have any idea why that would be but it's my experience with the two bows I have--may just be bow specific in this case.

[ahab78]

Thanks for the responses. I will definitely try to make it to Big Jim's to try them all.

Rather than debate anyone on here, I apologize to Red for my short comment back to him regarding how powerful a Takedown is or is not in comparison to a Super Kodiak. I am sure he was just trying to help me out, and I just read it the wrong way. I read the Takedown was less powerful than the Super Kodiak in a couple of other places on the internet while doing research on Bear Bows. I have no idea what they meant or what the experience is of those who said it, but a few people did say it in different forums so I thought it might have some validity and I wanted to get your seasoned opinions on that. I have two 50# bows. Shooting the same arrow, one makes a "pop" sound and the other makes a "boom" sound when hitting my target. I have no idea if one has more kinetic energy or speed, but I take the one that goes "boom" when I go hunting.

[Bud B.]

David, is yours an A handle or B? And what is the length? Limb length and riser length can change things around. I have a 65 Kodiak that sends an arrow sailing and a 65 Grizzly that seems faster. The Grizz is 58 AMO and the Kodiak is 60. Both are 45#. Limb length (the working part), riser length, and overall design definitely play a role. I have a 55# SK and B handle with #2 limbs in 55#. Now I have to go shoot both to see what I can see!  

[Ray Lyon]

I'll offer my two cents. I've owned/shot extensively the Kodiak Magnum, 59 Kodiak, Super Kodiak, Grizzly and Take-down. All are very nice bows. I personally didn't like the K-mag because of my 28" draw and it being a little finicky shooting. I loved that it was super compact and handy. Super K is very smooth as is the take-down. 59 Kodiak is a great bow, but different than the others. I think it's a better bow for the guy who likes both longbows and recurves, because it's a closer feel than going from a longbow to a big risered recurve.  
All that said, with your little extra windfall cash, I'd recommend seriously considering an A handle take-down with #1 limbs. This will give you a snappy bow with your 26 inch draw and still be really smooth. It'd be a nice compromise between the 60" Super K and the 52" Kodiak Magnum. As far as the super magnum, even with your 26" draw, I'd say pass until you see a used vintage one down the road that you can pick up for $150-200 and make it a 'specialty bow'. Also, with the take-down you can add a set of limbs (good used ones are available at fair prices here on Trad-gang classifieds) as your budget and desire allows.  The old Grayling ones were not rated for fast flight strings, so they won't have the same performance as the new limbs do from current production. If you add a set of #3 limbs down the road, that will make a 60" bow on an A riser and be extremely smooth shooting for you. Pay attention to grip size. My A handle had a blockier, large grip handle. Some of the vintage B risers had a slimmer handle, so this may play into your decision.

It's certainly fun to be shopping and playing out the options. Good luck with your hunt.

[cacciatore]

I think myself that the SK is a faster bow(just a feeling) but to go bow is the TD.

[TRAP]

Super Kodiak or 59 Repro.  Save a little more and buy the top of the line. Both are smooth bows that shoot as good as they look and both are easy to shoot well.  

One grip may feel better than the other to you and that is key. Try before you buy.

Oh and I wouldn't worry too much about old bows blowing up.  New bows do it occasionally as well.  It's generally a defect that causes failure, not age.  I have a room full of vintage Bears and they all get shot after a close inspection.  Some get shot a great deal and they are still going strong.

[David Mitchell]

BudB. The TD is B handle with #1 limbs. Both bows are 60" bows.

[ahab78]

Thanks again to everyone for responding. I spent a good deal of time on my property this morning scouting. Realistically, I can do everything I want to do with the 54" Pika I have now, but it is set up for night hunting hogs (quiver, stringtracker, and flashlight). And I have always wanted a Bear bow and I need a good bow for daylight operations. After walking my property and scouting the best spots for this season I think it is going to require me to get two bows. Hahaha.

First, the deer and hogs are bedding in the thickest brush we have had in a decade -- we have had a tremendous amount of rain this year. I am going to bust some brush this summer and make some paths into their bedding areas for some stalking in the fall. Shots will be about 7 yards and under so I am leaning toward the Super Mag in 55#.

Second, I am hunting a few open clearings that may require me to reach out to 20-25 yards for deer. Not sure if I will ever shoot that far or not, but I would like enough bow (flattest trajectory) to have the confidence to do so if that big buck ever shows up. For that reason I am looking at 65# bows which would put me at around 60# for my draw length.  This leaves the Super Grizzly, Takedown, and Super Kodiak.

Not trying to start a debate here on what poundage is right or wrong. I have seen too many of those threads go sideways quick. I want a 65# bow because I have a short draw length and I want that extra horsepower my friends with the 30" draws are able to get. Besides, I have some 2219s that need a bow and I can pull 65, so why not.

[ron w]

I would get an "A" riser T/D new or used. Then get limbs that fit your need as far a poundage and length. They are fantastic bows.......  

[cacciatore]

At 20-25 yards you need to accurate first then if you want a flat trajectory you need a lighter arrow or to buy a radical designed bow

[ahab78]

Thanks again to everyone for responding. I spent a good deal of time on my property this morning scouting. Realistically, I can do everything I want to do with the 54" Pika I have now, but it is set up for night hunting hogs (quiver, stringtracker, and flashlight). And I have always wanted a Bear bow and I need a good bow for daylight operations. After walking my property and scouting the best spots for this season I think it is going to require me to get two bows. Hahaha.

First, the deer and hogs are bedding in the thickest brush we have had in a decade -- we have had a tremendous amount of rain this year. I am going to bust some brush this summer and make some paths into their bedding areas for some stalking in the fall. Shots will be about 7 yards and under so I am leaning toward the Super Mag in 55#.

Second, I am hunting a few open clearings that may require me to reach out to 20-25 yards for deer. Not sure if I will ever shoot that far or not, but I would like enough bow (flattest trajectory) to have the confidence to do so if that big buck ever shows up. For that reason I am looking at 65# bows which would put me at around 60# for my draw length.  This leaves the Super Grizzly, Takedown, and Super Kodiak.

Not trying to start a debate here on what poundage is right or wrong. I have seen too many of those threads go sideways quick. I want a 65# bow because I have a short draw length and I want that extra horsepower my friends with the 30" draws are able to get. Besides, I have some 2219s that need a bow and I can pull 65, so why not.

[sheepdogreno]

my vote goes to the takedown just because that one riser can become multiple bows. You have one riser that can become and extension of your body and you can plug and play different limbs of lengths and weights for whatever you want to do. Target practice/hunt/hunt a blind/3d. it really is such a versatile bow IMO. But boy I do love me some grizzly. And the new model super grizzlys are amazing bows! Go shoot some if you can and really find out which works best for your needs. I have several bear bows and I shoot year round so I enjoy my takedown pluggin and playing with limbs of different lengths and weights.