Not sure what to do... to cut or not to cut?

[jonwilson]

Shooting bare shaft from my Bear Montana Longbow, the nock is left a considerable amount. So, my arrow is showing weak, obviously. I'm assuming I need to cut it down some. I don't want to reduce point weight because I am already at 125 grains.

What are my options?      

Bow Specs:
Bear Montana LB - 45# @28 inches
I draw 27 inches.

Arrow Specs:
Brand: Easton Axis Traditional Carbons
Size: 500
Wt: 8.9
Length: 31".
Straightness factor: ±0.003".
Wt. tolerance: ±.002.
Dia: .265".
Point weight: 125 grains.

[creekwood]

And I am assuming you are right handed?

[jonwilson]

Ah, yes! Sorry. Left that one out. I thought I had everything. haha

I am right handed.

[Bvas]

You could try footing with 2-3" of aluminum shaft. That would stiffen, increase foc, and make shaft more durable. Use hot melt to try it, so if you don't like it you can easily remove or adjust.

[creekwood]

Here are three choices:
1. Cut the shafts shorter
2. Shorten your draw length to 24 inches or so  
3. Use 12-15 inch fletches  

[kennym]

I would throw a 200 or 250 point on there to make sure you aren't getting a false reading.

I shoot a bow with more D/R than the montana at 48@28" with 500s 30.5" long and 200 up front.

Also mine is cut to center, not sure on the Montana....

[Rough Run]

I'm with kennym - sounds like a false reading.
I shoot a #49@28" longbow (I draw 28), not cut to center - I shoot GT Trad 500s, 30-1/2" BOP, with 150gr and 50gr inserts.  And footed with 1-1/4" aluminum.

[jonwilson]

Thanks guys.

Would a false reading be perfectly the same every time? If so, what would cause the false reading every time?

My form?  

[Longtoke]

You can also bump your strike plate out with a toothpick and leave the arrows as is, might take a little less than a toothpick of thickness, might take a little more.

[McDave]

I'm not sure why nobody suggested going to a stiffer shaft, which would have been my first suggestion.  Am I missing something?

[Snow Crow]

Originally posted by McDave:
I'm not sure why nobody suggested going to a stiffer shaft, which would have been my first suggestion.  Am I missing something?

Same thought here.  

Hard to imagine 42# effective draw and 500 shaft with 125 up front as being weak.


FWIW, my 55# Montana likes 29" 400's with 250 up front, I draw 28.5".

[batbow]

If you only draw 27  I would shorten till they fly correctly.
I draw 27.5 and on 4  45 lb bows that I have had,I used the same arrow as you are using - 500 spine easton axis trad. I end up around a 29 in arrow with a 150 to 200 up front, depending on what bow and what my goal is with arrow weight.
From my experience I would say you have the correct spine, just need to shorten.
For an example I have a 50 lb at 28 bow that is above average in the speed dept. I tried my 400 spine arrows from another bow of the same draw weight and they were weak. So I tried some 350 spine arrows and they tuned well at 32 in, but man thats really long. So I went back to a 400 spine and shortened till it flew correct.those tuned well at 28 1/2in - wich barely works for my draw - but it works without cutting my fingers on the BH.
If you really want good flight you gotta cut em till they fly like a dart. When they are right, if you do your part, they will shoot right with your fletched arrow at 30 yds . its a good feeling when you get that and it flys like that over n over!

[creekwood]

Take one arrow, keep cutting it and trying it until you get it to fly correctly.  Then cut the rest to that length. It really is that simple. Then report back to us.

[bucknut]

I was wondering why the 31" length to start with? I shoot a similar setup with 27" draw but my arrows are 28 1/2" and 200 gr tips on 500 FMJ's and feel they are too long. I can also shoot them on my past center cut recurves up to 55# with no difference in impact left to right.

[BAK]

So your hitting left or your arrow is just tilted left?  One has way more meaning than the other.

[Flatshooter]

Cut arrows 1/4"-3/8" at a time and watch your arrows straighten out. IMHO a 30+" arrow with 125gr up front is way too long and weak especially with your 27" draw and a 45# bow.

[jonwilson]

Thanks everyone! Great tips. Can't work on it today because I have my daughter's birthday party.

I'll report back asap.

[Flatshooter]

Another thought, if you like 2+" extending beyond your riser,go to a stiffer arrow. That would also work! This is part of the fun of traditional archery!!
    chery!

[jonwilson]

Okay. This may seem crazy, but today I checked my brace height and it was an inch under what Bear recommends for the Montana (7 1/2 to 8/12). I know, I should have already checked it!  

[Orion]

Yep.  The low brace height was causing the shaft to bounce off the strike/side plate, causing the nock to enter left. Good the arrows are flying right for you now.  I think .500s are a bit stiff for your draw length/point weight, but the extra length compensates.  Definitely do not shorten them unless you want to go to a heavier head.  

Somewhere down the road, you might want to try some .600 shafts.  Might like what you find.  Good luck.