DIY Wood Shaft Tapering - Recommended Methods & Tools

[Rando]

Hey all -
Looking to get back into wood arrows, per previous posts...
I've spoken with several shafting suppliers about tapered shafting and have decided I'd like to give 'em a shot, so to speak. Previously I've only shot parallels. I also learned that these suppliers really only spine & weigh the shafts before they taper them - which leads me to think I'd like to try tapering the shafts myself.
Looking for recommended tools and processes for accomplishing this - plane vs. power sander, best jig design (homemade would be awesome), etc.
My initial thoughts are that:
1. you must start with quality shaft material
2. shafts must be straight as possible before tapering
3. shaft should be supported on both ends when tapering to keep the taper consistent around the diameter/center of the shaft
Appreciate any tips I can get... should be a good winter project.
thanks, Randy

[tecum-tha]

The angle design with files and two parallel guideblocks works well. Key is to have a really straight centerpiece, that is for example a parrallel 1/4" carbon shaft with .001 straightness. Then with a digital caliper and paper shims you will be able to produce any taper you like at any lenghth you want.
The guide blocks will be installed with the same method. This will produce accurate tapers, but the problem is frequently the inaccuracy of parallel shaft when it comes to roundness. You need to ensure the shaft can spin freely between the guideblocks. Then you need an end block to stop you from tapering.  To chuck the shaft into your drill use a piece of aluminum shaft with matching inside diameter to your wood shaft. Slit the short aluminum piece with a dremel lengthwise. Like that is will open slightly to accept the shaft. Now it is easy to chuck it straight.

[monterey]

Trying to put up pictures but can't do with imgur from the phone.  :(

[Stumpkiller]

I have a tapering jig that I use to taper the last 10" of my shafts which I made from a 34" piece of 2" x 2" hard rock maple with a 1/4" deep "V" groove cut full length.  I set a finishing nail just below flush near one end.

As you state - straighten the shaft, taper for nock, straighten again.  I usually straighten the shafts at least twice a day apart before I grind the nock and head tapers.  

I use a Bowyer's Edge scraping plane (from Dean Torges - now likely unavailable) and start with marks every 2" up the shaft (2", 4", 6", 8" &  10").  With a pencil I draw a line at these distances around the shaft (twisting it by hand in the groove.

Starting at the 2" mark I scrape towards the nock end and move all around the shaft (usually 20 or 21 scrapes).  Then I move up to the 4" and repeat - taking it all the way to the nock each scrape.

By the time it has been done from all four distances it is a shaft tapered the last 10".  I round it up with 200 grit sandpaper (on a block) and then smooth it up with #000 3M buffing pad to smooth it all up.

There is your nice 11/32" shaft tapered down for a 5/16" nock.

       


     

   

[R. Combs]

I use tim’s Taper tool on my belt sander.

Rick