question about arrow wraps and effect on spine

[Modad2010]

I was just keying some info into the 3 Rivers spine calculator and was wondering what difference you would get with arrow wraps as far as spine was concerned. I prefer wraps because I don't worry about damaging arrows when getting them ready to re-fletch. I've ordered an Omega original 40# @28 and Kegan recommended full length Beman ICS Bowhunter 500's with 145gr tips. Which works out on the spine calculator, but would wraps change the equation ?

[Tedd]

I think they are 15 grains so a tad stiffer. Depends on the bow and tune if you will notice. If you have perfect bare shaft flight then fletch up with wraps and broached you could be stiff. I have had it in my mind that wraps have thrown my tune way off in the past. Maybe I was just shooting poorly/ Current;y the bow I have seems to soak up changes like that with no effect.
Tedd

[John Malone]

I don't use wraps but I read a post somewhere someone ask the same question. A fellow posted back and said he added the wrap weight to the nock weight and added it to the lil box for nock weight. But that's just what I read.

[the rifleman]

Ive gotten away from wraps for that reason.  I usually have a tough time getting full length arrows in a weak enough spine for my 40# longbows.  A little weight at the rear of the arrow does stiffen their reaction.  If you have room in your tuning i would recommend bareshafting w wraps on.

[the rifleman]

P.s. i use .800 spine arrows in my 37# bow and .675 in my 42#.  My initial thought is that .500 wpuld be way to stiff for your bow, but when i looked up omega the say youll get 180 fps at 10 gpp--- thats quite a bit faster than what im shooting so maybe .500 will work--- every bow wants what it wants.

[Orion]

The Beeman ICS are skinny shafts,right?  Wraps for those are about 10 grains.  IMO, it won't make a difference, except perhaps in your head.

I've been shooting sticks for nearly 60 years, and, except for a very few olympic shooters, I haven't seen anyone yet who can decipher a 10 grain difference in arrow weight, regardless of where it's located.
Or let me put it another way, it's not reflected in their shooting accuracy.

Not trying to be a smart behind here.  It's just that we sometimes try to overthink these things.  This isn't rocket science.

[Modad2010]

Thanks guys. I got into the practice of using the wraps several years ago when fletching my arrows for use with (shall I say it?) compound bows. I hated trying to scrape glue off of carbons and not damaging them. I also found it easier to track arrow flight in low light conditions. I've also thought about using fletching tape in the future, but have no idea what it's like to remove that stuff.

 I had a season or two of using some traditional gear about 20 years ago, but had to return the bow to my aunt after taking a doe with it. I had achieved the goal of taking a deer with my uncle's bow after his death, as a way of honoring him and the influence he had on me in taking up bow hunting.
 Now in my 50's, I realize that most of my bow shots are within 20 yards and the idea of simplifying my equipment is very appealing. I am discovering that there is quite a bit of effort that goes into getting good arrow flight from traditional bows and I'm actually looking forward to it. I did the same thing a few years ago with my fishing. I now, mostly, use a fly rod and flies that I tie myself regardless of what species I'm fishing for. I just find more enjoyment in the simplicity.

 Thanks for the knowledge that you folks share.

[John Malone]

Has the idea of making your own fly rods hit you yet? It starts with tying flies then you make your on leaders next thing ya know..........

[Yooper-traveler]

The only arrows I don’t wrap are woodies.  I tune my arrows with wraps (including my bare shafts) so I’ve never had an issue. Are you planning on shooting full length arrows?  Or are you cutting short with tuning?  Just a thought, but you may want to invest in a bare shaft tuning kit and field point tuning kit.  500 with 145’s could be a tad stiff even with full length (depending on your release and draw length of coarse).

[Modad2010]

John - I've already started twisting my own leaders. I got into fiberglass rods this last year and have a Steffen Bros. and 2 Chris Barclays - so no need to start wrapping my own yet.      

Yooper - I think I will start with full length 500's and try to tune with point weight. I don't think it would hurt to have a little more weight up front if needed anyway.

Kegan told me that the shelf is cut to center and that his design gets a bit more speed and power than a lot of other bows with that draw weight. He said that most of his 40# bows do well with full length 500's, 145gr. tips, and sometimes some minor tweaking. I was just curious as to what the wraps might do to the spine - being on the back end of the arrow.

[M60gunner]

If the wraps are about 10 grains why not add a couple of those 5 grain washers to the point end?

[Skipmaster1]

This year I bare shaft tuned my arrows and had them all set with 150 grain heads. I did not have wraps on those arrows. I made up fletched arrows with wraps and they seemed to fly fine. I went to try broadheads and the flight was not good at all. I make up another bareshaft, this time with a wrap and it flew way stiff with a 150 grain head. Perfect with a 250 grain head. I went back to the non- wrapped bare shaft and it was still perfect with the 150 grain head and weak with the 250 grain head. My 250 grain broadheads flew perfect with the wrapped fletched arrows. The wrap really stiffened my arrow. I'm thinking it not so much because of the added weight, but also actually stiffening the shaft in the wrapped portion.

[KAZ]

I’m in the camp that it matters. It will definitely stiffen spine “some”. Whether that pushes you further away from OR towards optimal tune depends on the rest of the tuning variables. I always add an exact wrap or weighted wrap simulator to my bare shafts for the best tune. I use wrap & clear protective wrap so the weight adds up. Plus you can add more for the weight of feathers if you like. Or you can just figure out how weak to leave your setup without wraps. My experience is better to be a fuzz weak than stiff when it comes to broadheads... Plus most, not all folks have higher probability of short drawing instead of overdrawing in various hunting conditions...

[Car54]

I started using fetching tape about five yrs. ago, dont think l will ever go back to glue. Easy as pie to take off.