Just got some Grizzlystik Small Diameter shafts.

[Tedd]

I always noticed that the Grizzlystiks got mixed reviews on here. So I decided to try a 1/2 doz for myself. I ordered the .320 Grizzlystik TDT (thin diameter tapered) and plan to give them a thorough workout the next few weeks.
 First impression out of the box is that they "look" like high quality shafts. I think I am correct that this is a second generation of TDT as the first maker backed out?. These are by Victory.
Rolling them on a good flat desk they appear perfectly straight. Flexing them with your palm and rolling them shows they have a stiff/weak side like AD trads do. If anyone has experience with Victoy shafts, do they index the nocks all the same for the stiff spine? The nock are all lined up the same with the writing on the shaft.
I ordered them uncut with loose inserts.
Finished arrow weight target is 640-650 grains. The inserts supplied are a half-out type that weigh 70 grains. I asked if I could use .204 axis inserts for different weights and they said yes any .204 inserts will work. I'll start with 50 grain Easton HIT inserts. The shafts are about the size of a micro diameter shaft on the nock end and just slightly larger than an Easton Axis on the point end. If I get home with some daylight left I'll try them.
     
     
   

[ESP]

How long are they raw?

[Tedd]

31 7/16" from throat of nock to end of shaft. I would think 32"-33" would gain some customers by adding some tune-ability. I can cut to about 30 3/8" to 30 1/2" before running out of arrow. The half-out adds about 1/2".
Tedd
   

[Orion]

Is the inside of the half-out, the piece that fits inside the shaft, aluminum, steel or some sort of plastic/carbon?

Also, if you can use an Easton HIT insert, does that mean that the front several inches of the shaft (how many) are parallel?

[ESP]

An extra two inches would have been nice for us knuckle draggers

[Tedd]

I scratched the black part. They are aluminum.

[Tedd]

Too stiff. Even with 300 grain points screwed on. If they were an inch or so longer I could tune them. (My current arrow is a .350 black Eagle 32" long.  My bow is a Kanati longbow 60lb@30".
(I say too stiff because they fly nock right bare shaft. But I shoot AD trads and they always bare shaft too stiff but always shoot great when fletched.) I bet if I fletched these they would shoot. It's what tapered carbons do. In this case I have another spine to select so I will try that before fletching.
Maybe I can return for the .400s?
Testing done for now.

[Yooper-traveler]

Tedd I thought you could get a test kit before you ordered?

[Soonerlongbow]

I’ve been using the original Griz Stick shafts and love them.

[tecum-tha]

Bought two of their Black Friday Test kit specials. Arrived yesterday.
I shoot a 330 tapered shaft out of my Chastain and a Morrison Recurve. I will cut them at 28" and start to add weight. I can add up to 315 grains without inserts. Goal is 650grains+ @28" and max. FOC.
The Nijora Taperon tapered carbons fly weak with 100 grain insert and 125 grain tip out of the Chastain.They are 14gpi. They are 330ies. I am looking forward to try these...

[carbonflyr]

not to hijack but what are nijora taperon arrows?
just got off their website,could not understand a word of it, computer would not translate

[Tajue17]

if you didn't want those 1/2 outs what would the insert size be and could you still get brass inserts for them?

also the nocks,,,  do you think they would snap off when stump shooting leaving the inside part still in the shaft like the arrow dynamics were doing?

[ShrtRnd]

For those running micro dia shafts do you find running 4" feathers over 3" has any advantages/disadvantages?

[Tedd]

Yooper - I was too smart to need the test kit!! Even though Alaska Bow hunting insisted I try that first. Next time I'll listen.
I'll fletch one of these up and shoot it. My AD trads always bareshaft stiff but target points and broadheads fly perfect when fletched. Maybe I should forget the bare shaft testing?

I got the .320s and need to try the .400s. When I test a .400 gold tip parallel shaft it is way too weak even with light points. So I don't know how the GS will react.

Other inserts? Any .204 Easton HIT inserts works. or something from black eagle or victory. I think half-outs and outserts are ugly.
The nocks can be any .204 nock. I tried the Easton nocks in them. I think the nocks that came with the Grizzlytiks are gold tip? It says somewhere. I like them.

Shrtrnd - I always use 3 fletch 5" shield cut. I have never experimented with smaller fletch.

I had a touch of the flu last night so I didn't shoot. But I looked over the shafts again. I really like the concept and quality. I wish the grizzlystiks were an inch longer for more tuning. If that were the case they would be pretty hard to beat.

Tedd

[Orion]

I think the earlier Grizzly sticks were tapered.  Are these parallel shafts?  Given that they will take any .204 insert on the point end and likewise a .204 diameter nock, it would seem so.   Or  are they a parallel diameter internally, with the outside diameter changing over the length of the shaft?

[tecum-tha]

They are continuous tapered at .001 per inch and are parallel on the inside. I will put together two test arrows and see how this will go. I cut to 28" and will install the factory outserts with hot melt. Like this they can be removed if need be. I weighted the full length 320 this morning with factory outsert and 315 grain field point and they weighed 708 grains on my scale.

[Tedd]

With 15 minutes of practice time before I walked to the "below the house"  stand for an evening hunt. I shot a fletched .320 Grizzylstik side by side with my regular .350 Black Eagle Vintage parallel arrows. The Grizzlystik shot very well, crisp flight, quiet, the weight is right.
 A 5-10 mph cross wind was showing on the regular arrow and not at all on the Grizzlystik even though the arrows are almost identical in weight. So that was note worthy. It was very easy to see the difference
I screwed on the 250 gr via and it shot the Grizzlystik shot in the same spot with perfect arrow flight.  It was just a quick test. I'll have to do more. I could not tell is it bumped the side plate at all. I'll have to cap dip and crest to see if it wears. (I'm always prone to having my arrows rub just when I think the tune is perfect)
I took the Grizzlysik to the tree stand. Did not see any deer but noticed I can not see that black arrow at all!, It vanishes in the dusk.  (I see my arrow in the sight picture). It's been a long time since I had black arrows in the quiver.  Don't like that at all. I would have to dip the front of the arrow.
So even though I think the thin, tapered shaft is a really good idea, so far they need to be an inch or so longer and should be light colored wood grain.
I tried to take a photo of the black arrow vs the wood grain in low light from the tree stand. Even though I tuned the flash off, my phone flashed anyhow. I tried it a few more times just to make sure any deer was warned of my location. If flashed every time!
Tedd

[Tedd]

Tetum-The, mine are about 640 gr with a 250 gr point and a 50 grain easton HIT insert. That is perfect weight for me.
I tried a 300 gr point but it didn't do much for the stiffness and that is a little heavier than I want.
Tedd

[ShrtRnd]

Originally posted by Tedd:

Shrtrnd - I always use 3 fletch 5" shield cut. I have never experimented with smaller fletch.

Tedd

Cheers Tedd. Good to know 4 & 5" feathers don't drastically affect tuning & flight characteristics