New Kanati

[Gooserbat]

Okay talked to Jason and I'm about a month out from the glue up.  I know pretty much what scheme I'm going with (a lot of black) but at my 30+ draw I'm a little undecided if 60" is long enough or should I go 62" as Jason has told me he can and does build 62"" bows.  Any longer armed kanati shooters want to chime in?

[Rock 'N Bow]

I shoot a 58" Kanati with a 29" draw. No problem as far as I can tell. 60" would be fine at 30" draw.

[Alexander Traditional]

I think Tedd on here has a long draw,and really likes them.

I have one,but my draw is only 28.

I really like them,but didn't know he offered a 62" very interesting.

[mcgroundstalker]

I'm far from being an expert. With that being said:

Many people like a shorter bow for speed, which is relative. Others state that a longer bow has a smoother draw. In my case, I've owned 56" Kanati's and 60" Kanati's and sold the shorter ones. My shooting has improved since then.

Let me add my draw length is 26", like a T-Rex. Found the longer bow just the ticket for all day shooting. In fact, for the money a Kanati is a fantastic, smooth and quick longbow!

Best Of Luck...

... mike ...    ...

[Tedd]

I draw 30". My kanati is 60". Zero stack or finger pinch and I'm not just saying that! It works great. I shoot it more accurately that any bow I have owned so I guess the length is right.
   
   
   
   

[Tedd]

Also, I have been experimenting with string types, trying all the usual high end materials. BCYx, 8125...etc.
 I hit on a recipe that makes mine super quiet. 3 bundle string made of 15 strands of 452-X, loops padded to 21, .030 halo serving. It almost doesn't need silencers. Note - use light weight silencers like wooly whispers or just part of the other heavier wool
silencers. The Kanati has such a nice shot feel you don't want to add any thump with heavy weight wool balls. Silencers go at 12" down from the top and 13" up from the bottom.
Brace height is best at 7 1/4". I don't gain anything by going to the recommended 7 1/2" brace.
At 7 1/4" there is no string slap on the limbs and the sting does not hit my arm.
Tedd

[Gooserbat]

Okay thanks Tedd.  I'm honestly wanting to keep it at 60".  I just have tried to go short before and it just cost me more money in order to remedy the problem.

[Tedd]

Gooserbat, Me too. Yep it costs a lot of money when a bow is too short. Ruins your shooting, makes your fingers sore...etc.
You will have no problem at 30"

Tedd

[Gooserbat]

Okay I just went and measured my draw.  I'm hitting 29-29.25 true draw 30.75-31 amo with my Tall Tines Recurve.  Really makes me nervous about a 60"

[Tedd]

My 30" is to the far side of the shelf. I draw back, have someone mark the arrow where it is sticking out of the bow right at the sight window. I then measure the arrow from the throat of the nock to the mark on the arrow. That = 30" for my draw.
I think that is how all traditional bowyers measure it?
It sounds like you have a 29 1/4" draw.

[Gooserbat]

[Gooserbat]

The sight window measurement is only relevant to the bow in question.  For instance I can't go any shorter than 31.25 on my tall Tines or broadheads will hit the riser.  That's why the amo standard was developed.  True draw to the troat of the grip plus 1.75".

[pete p]

no problem with 60". your going to love it, i had a camo actionwood kanati....man what a bow. top notch craftsmanship and performance. bows are underpriced in my opinion.