Wood arrow finish..

[SAM E. STEPHENS]

Got some Douglas fir shafts on the way and have read in the past about spray paint finish or whipe on finish. I have fletching stuff and a crester and taper tools. So what brand of paints and stain and seal that will work together ( off the shelf at the hardware or box store ) and what glue works...

,,,,Sam,,,,

[SAM E. STEPHENS]

Would like to know what has worked for you , stuff you have used and it actually worked. Also please be brand specific so I don’t buy the wrong stuff , Thanks for your help...

,,,Sam,,,

[Bud B.]

Oil poly 50/50 with mineral spirits for clearcoat. Any stain underneath. Duco for fletching and nocks.

The oil poly will cause cresting to run if not water based or sealed with a water base first.

I experience no target burn with this mixture. I dip at least three times. I 0000 steel wool between first/second and second/third dips. I use gloss poly. Rub down with 0000 steel wool after final dip if you want a dulled finish.

[Bud B.]

Sorry, Minwax poly and whatever mineral spirits I can grab. I shy away from the organic type mineral spirits.

[SuperK]

I have used regular Minwax wipe on stain to stain the shaft and buff with fine steel wool after it dries.  I used Truoil to sealed the shaft.  I would pour a small amount of Truoil in a small paper cup, put on disposal latex gloves, dip my finger in the Truoil and spread/smooth it out evenly on the stained shaft.  The next day I would lightly buff the shaft with fine steel wool and apply another coat. I usually used 3 to 4 coats.  Simple, easy and effective.  If you scuff up an arrow you can easily touch-up the finish.  If you can't find Truoil, and/or  want to go cheaper, Minwax Wipe-on Poly (clear satin) works almost as good.  Duco works for either.   If you have any more questions, or want pictures of what I use, shoot me a pm.  Hope this helps...

[reddogge]

Aniline dyes- Behlen Solar Lux or Tandy Leather.
Cap- Krylon Fusion.
Crest- Whispering Wind or any model acrylic paint from hobby shop.
Seal- Min Wax Wipe On Poly.

[M60gunner]

Local stuff, MinWax stain and MinWax wipe on poly. Used Testors for crest. Or, spray cap with Rustolem 2X spray paint. Crest with Testors waterbased Acrylic from Michael’s craft store. Use MinWax waterbased Polycrillic to cover cap end and protect cresting. For rest of shaft I use Tung oil, a couple coats. I can recoat the tip end as needed from target wear.
 Only thing not store bought is glue. I use NPV glue but have read that Ducco will work over the waterbased Polycrillic.

[hitman]

I use Minwax stain and dip in water based poly. Hand buff with 0000 steel wool after dryer good. 4 times of dipping and buffing , after the last time of buffing I do my creating and 48 hours of drying I dip again then done. Ready to fletch. Oh by the way I use Testors paint to crest.

[Todd Cook]

The last batch I did was with krylon clear in a rattle can from Home Depot. I've been really pleased with how hard the finish is. For glue I use the gel superglue from Harbor Freight. Works better than other stuff I've paid twice as much for.

[rraming]

just don't mix water and oil

I use Gasket lacquer, water based paints and duco. I only have a problem with lacquer if it goes on too thick, then cracks. Another option is ProFin, have not gotten to my can of it yet

[Steve H.]

If you live in the desert anything will probably be just fine.  If you hunt in saturated spots like we have in Alaska you better use something real like Helmsman Spar Urethane or something similar with a high oil content.  

Friends don't let friends use gasket lacquer.

[Hud]

Oil based stains are durable, but check the color before you start, some colors look better in the can than on an arrow.

Don't use lacquer on the tip end, as it gums up in some targets and is hard to pull. Same thing with clear, or color lacquers.

I do not recommend water based lacquer, because you will have a problem thinning.  Most lacquer requires thinning if you are going to crown dip, otherwise it flows uneven and holds air bubbles. Solvent based lacquer retains pigments when thinned and will not loose color. Some states do not allow solvent lacquers to be sold. Use in a ventilated area. Bohning is really strong.

Duco is best with wood, feathers and stain or lacquer.

All lacquers are not the same, Bohning is good on aluminum, and glass but you need to refrain from mixing with other lacquers, enemals, stains, etc.

Don't put oil based stain under lacquer or on top.
Tape off where you want the stain to end on the front of a shaft, or stain the whole shaft. Use wraps for cresting (ugh), or use use cresting paints (oil based, enamels) over stain. Use the same product for clear.

If you are going to seal the cresting use a spray of the same brand (mini-wax, polyurethane, etc).

Buy a few hardwood dowels to experiment with, that way you can see if you like the results and product, before using it on you new shafts.

If you dip, stir the product in a can, don't beat it or shake, unless you like air bubbles in your finish. Pour slowly from the can into the dip tube, held at a slight angle so bubbles come up to the top.  Wait for 15 minutes and check to see if it is free of bubbles.  If your product is thin (good), bubbles will run off the full length shaft, if it is too thick (bad), they won't make it off.  Buy some clips and mount them on a board to hang shafts while drying.  If you screw the clips into the board too tight, it will make it harder to get the shafts to hang straight. Space about every inch. Use paper under to catch the drip, or a V metal flashing to catch the excess.

taper the shafts, if you plan on doing it and taper for the nock and points before applying finish. Sand and wipe off the dust.

Daly's Pro-fin is an oil base product and one of the best, you can't go wrong, but try it to be sure.
Good luck.

[Tedd]

The True North dips and paints do a really nice job. And no smell,  no thinning, no prep, easy clean up. Easy to order from Three Rivers.
Very tough finish. Colors are vivid. All compatible, you can clear dip over the cresting with no problems. I used alcohol based stain but I think you could use anything.
Tedd
 
   

[reddogge]

The beauty of alcohol based dyes is you can vary the intensity of the color by reapplying after first coat dries or lighten them back up by rubbing with alcohol. Very flexible.

[flyguysc]

Ted,I have gotten to the point to where the shafts have been stained and the crown dip is where I want it to be. At this stage should I crest the crown and then free dip with gloss clear the entire shaft or put one clear coat on and then crest and dip?I'm using True North stain,crown paint and clear gloss.

[Tedd]

Yes. Crest, then free dip over it. (The manufacturer says have one coat of cap or clear under your cresting lines.)
Finished free dip clear coat takes a total of 3 or 4 coats. But it's easy and dries pretty fast. The clear gloss over your cresting will really make it look like a pro did it!
When I'm putting on my final clear coats I only dip past the crest. Because my arrows are tapered and I don't have any reason to add a few coats of thickness back there. It already has 2 coats of paint.
tedd

[flyguysc]

Thanks ted for your help.

[Overspined]

I use acrylic paints and dip and hang a few coats of water based poly. Just let the acrylic paints or crest dry for a day before dipping so it doesn’t run.  Then to fletch any glue is fine. I like superglue gel

[flyguysc]

I'm impressed with the crown dip from True North,once I figured out the bubble issue. I put it into the dip tube and just let it set over night and used a a spare shaft to gently stir and the crowns came out find. There was some bubbles on the shafts and they ran off when I hung them to dry. Took two coats with a light sanding in between. I'm waiting on a Spin Rite crester should be here soon and I will have a couple pics to share.

[flyguysc]

I'm Here now. Will add two silver pen strips to purple band then dip in clear gloss and I will be good to go. Also two purple feathers and one pink and maybe a purple nock or maybe white.