Cresting / Crown Paint.

[TradBrewSC]

What is everyone using for paint these days?

I know of Bohning and True North, but didn't know if people were just buying stuff from hobby lobby that works well??

I am taking by arrow building to the next level and any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have built wood/carbon/aluminum arrows for years but have never messed with cresting or splicing.

Well I just ordered a Youngs burner and spinrite crester and diving in head first! Any advice going into this would be greatly appreciated!

[Terry Lightle]

I use True North cresting paint
Terry

[wooddamon1]

Krylon spray or lacquer dip in white under the entire length of the cap, then whatever color spray or dip over that you want with the same type of paint.

 Crest with Testor's (some will need thinning) then water-based poly dip (over entire cap/cresting for protection. Get decent brushes (natural bristles) you'll be glad you did. Not sure on TN stuff, but Bohning is good stuff, although pricey and stinky. Water-based paints I've tried from Whispering Wind were nice.

Good luck and have fun, those Spinrites look slick.

[M60gunner]

I have gone to using my Spinrite as a spray painting cap device. There’s a video on his website. Using Rustolem 2X spray for outdoor furniture use. Only bad thing I can relate is don’t try and spray white then another color over the white. I been using Testors Acrylic paints for cresting. Bought a whole set at the hobby store for about $12. Don’t skimp on the brushes, get the brush meant for the paint your using. When dry, overnight, I use a foam brush to apply MinWax Polycrillic water based clear to help protect cresting. I use Saunders NPV glue for fletching.

[TradBrewSC]

Thanks guys. Great info so far.

Keep it coming.

[DXH]

I use rustoleum rattle can for the main color. Then i do my detail work with testors model paint. I have had no feather adhesion issues and durability is excellent.

[hitman]

For fine lines get automotive detailing brushes. Also after cresting and letting dry good I spray a fine mist of poly over my cresting before dipping the whole arrow in poly. I have had my cresting run when dipping. Learning before mess ups is better.

[varmint101]

Check out Addictive Archery on YouTube. He’s got a cool series in building wooden arrows from start to finish. He used several different kinds, but did mention the Hobby Lobby paints work great, but if I remember right some colors worked better with a dip tube.  The videos are sectioned off into separate vids for each step.  Really made me want to try it.  Still have a couple dozen chundoo shafts left I’ll give a shot when it gets warmer.  Before I just sealed them with no stain or fun stuff lol.

[TradBrewSC]

Thanks guys!

I had seen a few thing from addictive archery in the past but need to look back into it for sure!

[flyguysc]

[/url] [/IMG] I used True North products (first time )and it worked out great.Just a little learning curve and I think the next set will be less of a mystery.

[Tedd]

Switched to True North products. They work very well. And no fumes!

 
   

[meathead]

I am another recent convert to true north paints after 20+ years of using bohning lacquer.  Very happy with the results so far.

[TradBrewSC]

Great stuff guys!

[Zmonster]

I use Tamiya paints from the local RC hobby shops. TONS of color options. Paint over white to make colors pop. Dip in dalys profin.

 

[OkKeith]

Catlin-

I use a mix of carbon shafts and wood shafts (of various materials).

I have always used Testors brand model paint. Enamel seems to last longer, acrylic is brighter. Which ever you are going to use for the cresting use the same for the cap (enamel with enamel, acrylic with acrylic) and then use a water based clear on the woods. I don't spray anything over the color on my carbons.

I have been experimenting with spray lacquers on other projects and am finding them to be vibrant and durable when using the clear lacquers over the top.

The nice thing about cap spraying and cresting carbons is that if it turns out crappy you can just wipe it all off with acetone and start over.

OkKeith

[Mountain State Archer]

I use Lacquer based paint from Rose City Archery.  Works great when sealing with gasket lacquer and dries almost instantly.

[TradBrewSC]

Originally posted by OkKeith:
Catlin-

I use a mix of carbon shafts and wood shafts (of various materials).

I have always used Testors brand model paint. Enamel seems to last longer, acrylic is brighter. Which ever you are going to use for the cresting use the same for the cap (enamel with enamel, acrylic with acrylic) and then use a water based clear on the woods. I don't spray anything over the color on my carbons.

I have been experimenting with spray lacquers on other projects and am finding them to be vibrant and durable when using the clear lacquers over the top.

The nice thing about cap spraying and cresting carbons is that if it turns out crappy you can just wipe it all off with acetone and start over.

OkKeith

Great advice! thank you very much. I am certainly going to go with what you have said.

[rustyspike]

Used to buy Testers at Walmart cant get in there any more. Where you buying it?

Rich K.

[wooddamon1]

Hobby Lobby or Michael's or any small hobby shop should have it.

[OkKeith]

Catlin-
Happy to help. As suggested by others I used to always run a white base under any spray color. They actually have a flat white primer that works great. Anymore I cap spray only white and do color cresting. I even do all white five inch shield cut feathers. No problem seeing the arrow.

Here is a link to an old post with some photos. These were all done with Testor's enamel.

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=088229;p=2#000015

Rich-
Damon has you steered in the right direction. I get all the enamel, acrylic and lacquers in the small bottles and spray cans at Hobby Lobby. I have A LOT of paints. Not only do I use them on arrows but I also use them to paint hard foam and balsa body poppers for flyfishing.

OkKeith