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Author Topic: Bareshafting  (Read 1705 times)

Offline Wudstix

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Bareshafting
« on: February 24, 2007, 08:53:00 PM »
What does it mean if the bareshafts are hitting nock high left?
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Offline jmar595

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Re: Bareshafting
« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2007, 12:23:00 AM »
I can;t figure out the bareshafting thing at all. I tried last weekend at the range and they all kept butchering the paper. Good luck. Look at O.L. Adcocks site, he has a lot of info on tuning that is helpful, I just can't seem to get it to work out right.
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Offline John57

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Re: Bareshafting
« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2007, 02:44:00 AM »
Assuming your right handed it means your nocking point is a tad high and the arrow shaft a bit stiff.
You want your bare shaft to tune slightly weak,that way when you fletch the arrow it will be spot on.The fletching makes the arrow a little bit stiffer,so if your getting perfect bare shaft flight the fletched arrow will be a little over spined and tend to shoot left if you make a poor realese,it probably won't fly like c,,,p but it won't be as fogiving of form faults.
Remember to approach each issue separately,don't try to fix both things at once.Get your nock level then look at the shaft spine after you've sorted that out.Another thing is that an arrow that doesn't look to great bare shaft can still fly pretty good once it's fletched,so it's not a total loss if they don't bare shaft exactly according to the books.I can't get any carbon to bare shaft well but the GT3355 flys alright with feathers on.
So it's not the be all an end all of arrow tuning.
My advice,,shoot tappered shafts an most of these issues will vanish over night.
Cheers.

Offline OconeeDan

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Re: Bareshafting
« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2007, 07:34:00 AM »
According to OL Adcock's site, he says don't pay attention to the nock end of the arrow when bareshafting.  Only worry about where the unfletched arrow hits.
At least that's what I understood.
 http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm
Correct me if I am wrong.
Dan

Offline Wudstix

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Re: Bareshafting
« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2007, 02:45:00 PM »
I'll check it out.  Stained and nocked one that seems to be shootin OK.  I' fletch and try a broadhead, making sure the neighbors cat is inside of course.
"If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space!!!" - Me

Psalms 121: 1-3 - King David

60" Big River 67#@28"              
60" MOAB D/R LB 62#@27"
60" Big River D/R LB 65#@27"
62" Kota Badlands LB 72#@28"
62" Howatt TD 62#@28
58” Bear Grizzly 70#@28”
62" Big River D/R LB 60#@30"
66" Moosejaw Razorback LB 60#@28"

"Memento Mori"
PBS - Associate Member
Retired DoD Civ 1985-2019

Offline McDave

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Re: Bareshafting
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2007, 10:33:00 AM »
A little bit nock high is okay, as it gives you a margin of error for the arrow to clear the shelf.  I like it when the bare shaft groups with the fletched arrows at 20 yards, but with the nock on the bare shaft showing a little higher than the nocks on the fletched arrows.  If the bare shaft hits way lower than the fletched arrows, or takes a noticeable dive, then move the nock down.

Sometimes you will find that your original symptoms change as you make corrections, for example, when you get your nock where you want it, you may find that your nock left changes to nock right.  Usually not.  But it can be somewhat of a back and forth process.

It is easier for me to do the first round of bare shaft tuning with my bow in an upright position, since nock high and right may really mean only nock high if the bow is canted to the right.  When I get things about right, I fine tune with the bow in my normal canted position.  Most of the time, I don't have to change anything at that point.

If you find that you can't eliminate the nock high/low condition within a reasonable range of nock positions, say 3/8 - 3/4", it may mean that the tiller of the bow is off.  Most of our traditional bows don't have adjustable tillers, so at that point it is either live with it or back to the bowyer for a tiller adjustment.
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Offline AkDan

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Re: Bareshafting
« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2007, 02:07:00 AM »
well I sure hope not, this is my 2nd bow I cant get a nock high kick out of.   Starting to think it's me however I have one bow I can shoot and shoot ok with.    It sure is flustering!!!!!!!!  

The tiller on this new bow is completely different then the old one and I think this new bow might have been built for 3 under where as the last bow was custom built for me.    Thats the main reason I think it's me and not the bow.  

HELP!!!!  ugg.

Offline McDave

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Re: Bareshafting
« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2007, 10:14:00 AM »
Dan, I've read that shooting with a high elbow can cause a nock high condition, because the high elbow can cause the index finger to press down on the top of the arrow shaft, causing a slight bend in the arrow shaft.  After the arrow is released, the arrow rebounds and so leaves the bow in a nock high position.  There are probably other shooter-caused reasons a nock high could occur, but that's the only one I've heard of.
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Offline mrfritz

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Re: Bareshafting
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2007, 06:32:00 PM »
I just solved my consistent nock high left problem after quite a bit of bewilderment.  Go the opposite direction and try an extra light head.  I was shooting 145gr and had to drop to 75gr, then work my way back up to 125gr after some shaft trimming.

You may be grossly underspined............give it a try.

Offline AkDan

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Re: Bareshafting
« Reply #9 on: March 01, 2007, 11:42:00 PM »
dunno, my highest spined shafts were showing pretty stiff readings compared to the lighter spines.

I did call the bowyer and he mentioned it is tillered most likely for 3 under.  The way I was measuring isnt how he does it, so my readings were not right.  GO figure.

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