...shoot a bare shaft -or- (insert favorite tuning method here) every once in a while, even after your set-up is "tuned"?
I just spent several weeks struggling with my shot. All due to something very simple, and yet very hard for me to see.
I changed strings and silencers a while back, and my shooting just went in the crapper. I went from a skinny 450+ string and rubber cat whiskers (1/2 cat whisker on each end of the string) to a 16 strand DF97 with Hush Puppies. I draw 28" and was shooting 29.5" 2016's with 125 grain points, out of a 52@28 hybrid longbow. These arrows flew great before, but I just couldn't hit consistently, and could see the arrows kicking around after the string change. I really didn't think it would make that much difference. I was convinced it had to be me. "I must be torquing the string, torquing the bow, plucking the string...something!"
After changing my anchor point, hook, grip style, and even listing my favorite bow for trade a few days ago, I finally saw the light. I stripped the feathers off an arrow and you can guess the results... Over-spined. Ended up having to go to a 30" arrow with 150 grains up front to fix things. Once I got the arrows right, everything else fell back into place.
Now many of you are probably sitting there, nodding your heads sagaciously, saying, "He should have figured this out long ago." Well, you'd be right, but I'm stubborn and short-sighted, especially when I'm wrong...
I recall hearing Ken Beck say he carries a bare shaft in his quiver when target shooting. The reason he gave was that if he begins to doubt his form or release, he shoots the bare shaft, which will obviously magnify any errors. Seems like a pretty dang good idea.