Clicker help again

[2Blade]

So im at the point now im shooting real well and have the confidence for hunting season. But the way I use the clicker is I reach full draw before it clicks then push my bow arm foreword to trigger the click. It allows me hold at full draw without snap shooting. But I seem to keep fighting myself now trying to push my arm foreword. I wish I could just draw let it click then hold after the click but I cant. Do you guys do anything similar to what I do that helps you? Im open to all suggestions im just worried about freezing up on a deer and not releasing.

[Tom Anderson]

The Olympic archers typically do what you're doing, though they pull that last little bit with their drawing arm I believe.  When they hear the clicker the arrow is released immediately.  They're already floating on target before it clicks and no further aiming refinement is necessary...the click is just their signal that the proper draw length has been reached and it's time to send it.

[2Blade]

ttt

[fyrfyter43]

That's how I use my clicker. Come to a comfortable draw, then increase back tension (push the bow arm forward) until the clicker clicks. The clicker is my mental trigger to release.

[2Blade]

Im confused I thought back tension was only ment for the drawing arm? Could be some of my problem I don't shoot back tension I only use my arm muscles. I guess my biggest reason when I started I wasn't taught to use BT and im not sure how to properly do it. Ive heard people say squeeze yer shoulder blades together but when I do it it feels very uncomfortable.

[Tom Anderson]

2Blade,
Get ahold of a copy of Rick McKinney's book "The Simple Art of Winning" - it has good diagrams and discussion on proper back tension and which muscles are involved.
First of all, you shouldn't be really "pushing" with your bow arm.  You want to lock the humerus in the socket and let it stay there...continuing to pull with your drawing arm.  Yes, you've got to initially do some pulling with your bicep and triceps on the drawing arm, but once you get the string on back towards your face, the upper back muscles (traps, lats, serratus) take over and the forearm and upper arm should become a big "hook" on the string.
Don't try to squeeze both shoulder blades together, but instead try to pull your drawing arm shoulder towards center.  Have a good grip with the bowarm, but kinda let it relax, seated firmly in the socket.

[2Blade]

Thanks Tom ill give it a shot

[2Blade]

Well, ive been messing around with it. Today I was pulling with muscles that felt like they were on the right side on my back more center then my lower back. It works great and my shooting was amazing I was hitting real well.

But then I went and had to lead the horses around and my right arm was just dead. I could draw and anchor but the muscles I just spoke of in my back just couldn't pull far back enough. So far pushing the bow arm foreword has been the thing that's worked best but some shots don't feel as good as others.

The way I did it today felt like the most natural but im worried that its not good because if I do something physical and the muscle tires ill never get my clicker to click. All in all does this sound like what I need to be doing? If pushing the bow arm ahead has worked well should I just stick with that?

[BLACK WOLF]

Nick,

When you are working on this...are you trying to aim at the same time?

Ray  

[2Blade]

Originally posted by BLACK WOLF:
Nick,

When you are working on this...are you trying to aim at the same time?

Ray    

Yea I was stump shooting when all this was going on. Got a huge old Oak tree that has a nice white spot on it that I shoot at. Now that youve asked im sure aiming isnt helping as im trying to more then one thing. Sorry for the long message above im just trying to get everything set before hunting season.

[Tom Anderson]

Nick,
Keep working on it and the muscles will get conditioned to the poundage.  It sounds like you were probably using some muscles that hadn't been used before (that's probably a good thing).

However, are you sure you're not overbowed in poundage?  55# is a lot of weight to be learning to draw properly.

[BLACK WOLF]

Nick,

You're exactly right. When you are trying to change or develop a certain aspect of your form, it's beneficial if you only focus on that instead of dividing your concentration between 2 or more aspects.

I'm not sure on the exact number but it has been said that it takes 1000 to 2000  shots to engrain an aspect of your form into your muscle memory.

I know the Korean Olympic archery team takes this pretty seriously. I have read that they will work on developing good form for about a year before they start their archers on aiming.

I would suggest getting in front of a blank bale and work on what you are trying to change or improve for at least a few weeks before you start trying to incorporate aiming back into your shooting.

Ray    

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

Originally posted by Tom Anderson:
However, are you sure you're not overbowed in poundage?  55# is a lot of weight to be learning to draw properly.

I have to agree. There's a big difference between shooting 55# and shooting 55# when you're trying to learn to properly use a clicker. I was shooting 57# when I started using a clicker and it wore me out at first. Now I can shoot a full field round an still control my shot, but it took a lot of time and work to build up that much endurance.

That's not to say you can't learn to use a clicker with hat draw weight. I did. But don't push it too far at first. Small steps and work up your arrow count gradually.

[2Blade]

Weight is not a problem drawing the bow feels effortless and I can hold from 5-7 seconds before I start to shake. I have been training with my 45lb recurve also.

[Molson]

Nick it sounds like you're cheating yourself by pushing forward to get the click.  The reason for the clicker is to ensure a complete draw and to release with back tension.  Draw back into the click, don't push into it. You're gonna give yourself more problems by "reaching" to complete your draw.

[2Blade]

Originally posted by Molson:
Nick it sounds like you're cheating yourself by pushing forward to get the click.  The reason for the clicker is to ensure a complete draw and to release with back tension.  Draw back into the click, don't push into it. You're gonna give yourself more problems by "reaching" to complete your draw.

Ive tried and for some reason as soon as it clicks I shoot which turns in to snap shooting. I guess I could snap shoot as long as I reach full draw til it clicks?

[2Blade]

I may have misunderstood are you saying to reach full draw hold then pull backwards in to the click?

[Molson]

Originally posted by 2Blade:
I may have misunderstood are you saying to reach full draw hold then pull backwards in to the click?

Yes.  It doesn't have to be a long, drawn out event, maybe a second or two.  Draw, anchor, squeeze back - *click* - arrow away!

Try to get a video showing how guys use the clicker and it will all come together for you.  Dan Bertalan's "Shoot Instinctive Better Than Ever" videos show it off pretty good as Dan uses a clicker.

You should think about using your 45# bow to learn this with like the other guys mentioned.  Once you get the technique down, then you can work on building it into your 55#ers.  You're handicapping yourself using the higher weight when you have a lighter option available.

[2Blade]

How do I go about making it click faster as I pull throug? It seems to take me around 3-5 seconds for it for to get it to click. I think its my TP stopping me because when I dont have an arrow on the string or if im not shooting at a target I can make it click as fast as I need to. Another thing that concerns me is that I went squirrel hunting the other day. I got 2 shots at chipmunks and both I reached full draw but couldnt pull to the click I just snap shot. Do you have a link to a video of someone properly using a clicker?

[2Blade]

ttt