Bare shaft tunning with Inserts

[flyguysc]

I have a set of ICS bow hunter carbons & would like some info in regards to bare shaft tuning.I have turned xx75 2016s & used hot melt for the inserts but I don`t think that will work for carbons.If one uses epoxy that could be a long wait in between rounds .Any Ideas ,I read somewhere tat you could use saran wrap?
THanks in advance Gary

[Don Batten]

Yep, saran wrap works fine for me. Ive used it on grizzly stiks weighing around 675gns out of a 61lb bow, into a block target and haven't lost one yet. DB

[foamkiller]

When I bare shaft I glue the insert in the nock end of the arrow. That way when I want to cut some off all I have to do is remove the nock. Saves a lot of time and hassle.

[flyguysc]

If you bare shaft tune with three fetched arrows& three bare shafts In order to get your groups together or as close as possible trimming the nock end would not cut It.No pun intended. but thanks anyway.

[WestTnMan]

I have started using hot melt with no problems. I have heard alot not to do it but wanted to find out for myself. I keep a water bottle handy and screw in an old point that I clamp down in a pair of vice grips to hold it. Heat the insert and apply hot melt. Press in insert in the arrow and immediately stick the end in the water to cool. I just leave it submerged while I work on the next arrow. I trim off the ring of hot melt after it has cooled. I found that the insert takes a long time for the heat to disipate without cooling and I think heat is what messes up the carbons. I had some start to unwrap from the inside before I started cooling them as quickly as possible. I use hot melt full time now and the inserts don't pull out even when buried in a 4x4 post (don't ask!). Just be sure to prep and clean the inside of the shaft before installing the insert for best results.

[SteveB]

I've used hot melt on 100's of arrows with no problems. My buddy with a shop has done 1000's.
Heat slowly on the point.

Steve

[JRY309]

I have used hot melt before on tuning carbons,but now I tune with using saran wrap.Saran wrap is quick and easy to use when tuning,no waiting for epoxy to dry and no heat needed.I can get my tuning done without having to use any heat.My preferred method of tuning now.I know alot have used hot melt,I have myself but there is not a carbon arrow manufacturer out there that recommends using any heat at all.

[twostrings]

JRY309 or Batman,

Could you explain how you  use saran wrap? I have never heard of this method.

Thanks,
TwoStrings

[cjgregory]

I use hot melt on carbons just fine.  Just clean the end out with acetone and a q-tip.  To get them back out just heat up the field point until it comes out with the insert.  No problems whatsoever.

Would like to know this wrap method as well.

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

Originally posted by SteveB:
I've used hot melt on 100's of arrows with no problems. My buddy with a shop has done 1000's.
Heat slowly on the point.

Steve

I'll echo Steve's comments. In better than 16 years of using hot melt on carbon arrows, I have yet to damage a single one.

Flyguysc...Like you, I shoot Beman ICS shafts. Ferr-L-Tite works just fine.

[Wile E. Coyote]

Interested in knowing about how you are using the saran wrap as well?

[Ray_G]

I have used the saran wrap, too.  I think it was Snag who enlightened us on it last year.

Take a strip 3/4" or 1" wide and wrap it around the insert a couple of times.  It should fit tight into the shaft.  Screw in your point choice(s) and test.  Remove the insert for glueing by pulling on the field point with pliers and the insert will come out.

Ray

[NoCams]

Guys,
ya'll are making this way to complicated ! An arrow is a just a tube that does not care which end is which for a bareshaft. Yes, your graphics on the outside of the bareshaft might not match your fletched shafts when you are done trimming the bareshaft. Who cares, the bareshaft is a tuning tool and a form checking tool in your quiver only.

I just decide what tip weight I want to shoot, and start full lenght and start trimming till she tunes. After a few shots to confirm weak spine I slide the nock out of the bareshaft, trim off a 1/4 - 1/2" and shoot again. Once you have a slightly weak bareshaft then you know what length shaft is needed and you can trim the fletched shafts to match.

nocams  

[huntindad]

I think you might be talking about a different method of bareshaft tuning.The one being discussed here is the one in which you must make the adjustment to the fletched and bare shafts at the same intervals and shoot three of each for groups and the orientation of the two groups to each other tells you your spine condition. Bill

[xtrema312]

No problem here with ICS and hot melt.  Just go for it.  I have had zero problems and I don’t even do any prep work on them.  Now the GT trad's I have been working on are a different story.  They pull out all the time.  Even with roughing up the inside and cleaning them with alcohol they will pull out now and then.  I have been shooting brass inserts and the inserts are a little larger than the shafts on the GT and ICS so that is part of the problem.  Also I shoot a bag target and it really catches on the insert on pull out.  However, when the do pull out the insert is just hanging there and easy to get out.  I need to try some acetone on the GT’s or I will epoxy them I when I am done.  The ICS I will just run with the hot melt.

[tim roberts]

Teflon plumbers tape will work also.  Just make a few wraps around the insert and slide it in the shaft.

[BWD]

You could tip trim a small amount, epoxy your inserts, and do the remainder of your shaft trimming from the nock end, as needed.

[elknutz]

I used saran wrap this week working on some carbon arrow tuning issues. Just pushed the insert into the arrow with a piece of the saran wrap about 2" square. Trim off the excess, shoot, pull insert, cut arrows and repeat.  It worked great and it was very easy to make changes.  I probably shot 60 arrows with no issues.