Converting from compound to trad, need advice

[brokerman64]

I no longer find hunting with my compound fun. I came here to buy a good used recurve like I grew up shooting. I know nothing about what I need. I know that I shot a 45# Bear of my brothers when I was a kid. Back then I just wanted to save up my money and get a good compound bow. I have hunted with the compound for 20 years now and want to go back to my roots.
I am 6'1" tall, 225 lbs and fairly strong. I thought that all this meant I needed 55# and 64" or longer bow. Some people I contacted on this site with bows like this for sale suggested I go lighter and shorter.
Any ideas? Any good bows for a beginner available?
I live in Macon Ga.
Thanks!
Jason

[Bird Dog]

I wouldn't get a bow over 50 lbs. at your draw length(???) and I'd stay in the 58 to 62 inch range. There's nothing wrong with a longer bow but I find anything over 62" inches to be awkward in some hunting situations. It's hard to develop good shooting habits with a heavy bow when you're just starting out.

[moebow]

I second the lighter in weight part, length is a matter of opinion.  Find someone there in GA to let you try some bows for style and weight.  Holding a trad bow at full draw is a LOT different than a wheely with let off.  45-50 would be a great starting point.

[shortstroke 91]

Can't really comment on length, except longer bows feel more stable in the hand to me, but I'd suggest a lighter weight (#40) bow and work strickly on form for a while. I switched to Trad about 2 1/2 years ago and just now am getting my form correct and finding my anchor all the time. Take in all the advice you can get here and good luck.

[TheFatboy]

When switching from a wheelie to a traditional bow, I too would recommend a lighter poundage (40-50#). Even though you're strong, it's easy to mess up your form with a heavy bow.

[xtrema312]

I was shooting 70 compound and started with 46#@28" curve.  I went to 50 real quick.  I shot a lot of them in the mid 50’s when trying them, but that was too much for high volume daily shooting.  There are a lot of muscles involved I shooting a trad bow, and even your fingers need to work up to weight I think.  Now I found my 28" draw is a 29+" draw so the 50 would have been to heavy to start if my form was correct.  Check out the form clock and get a buddy to measure you so you can get an idea of what your draw should be.  That way if you are a 29 or 30" draw you will not be over bowed when you pull 3-6 more pounds than the 28” rating.  Use one of those real light draw length bows and measured arrows with correct form clock form.  

There are many bows that are short with long smooth draw lengths.  However, I would and did get a good used bow 60" to start.  I should cover you on draw length.  60" is a good all around bow for a curve.  I would start with a curve for more of a compound grip.  Also I would get a nice TD like a predator for a little weight to help with the change.  Post up what you are considering buying and others can let you know how it will work for your draw length.  There are many good used bows you can shoot and then trade or sell with little or now loss.

I started messing around about a year ago looking and trying stuff, along with shooting my old curve from when I got started 30 years ago.  I went to a shoot, show, and found TG members in the area to shoot bows.  I got a good starter weight used one about 9 months ago after I had a better idea of what was working for me at the time.  I have had about 6 now and have two I am shooting.  I am shooting 55 and 57 @ 29” right now and shooting them comfortably.  It took a lot of shooting to work up 10# of draw.  The first 5 was not too bad, but the next 5 took a little more time so plan to go through a couple bows getting you weight up, and there is no harm having a lighter weight starter and continuing to shoot it when you get you next higher weight bow.  I have always had two as I worked up.

[mahantango]

I think that it's hard to beat a Hoyt Gamemaster for making the switch from compound to recurve. and you have the option of trading up to heavier limbs in the future. It is unusual for any healthy, adult, male of average strength to not be able to handle at least 45 pounds, and the muscles used in shooting develop quickly if you practice.By all means, shoot as many bows as you can before making a decision. Just one man's opinion.

[brokerman64]

Wow! You guys are GREAT!!!! Very helpful! Now I just got to find a good one for a good price.
Please let me know if anyone has something.
Thanks again!!!!

[bolong]

good advice from all, defintley better starting on the lighter side than being too heavy.   been there done that                                                                                                                                                 crow creek dalton  64"  48 lbs.

[mrpenguin]

All great advice here...

My first bow was a 50# Browning Wasp 56 AMO that I pulled to around 27".  Since then I purchased a 71# longbow that was a 66 AMO and NEVER SHOT A GOOD SHOT OUT OF IT... luckily (kind of) it was defective and I returned it for a 56# longbow... since then I have gone back to the recurve and now shoot a Robertson TD 48# AMO 58... and the bow is more accurate and comfortable than ANY bow I have ever shot.  Anything around that 50# mark will kill most of the game in North America within 20 yards.  Plus, your less likely to develop overuse injuries from pulling too much weight.

Oh, as a point of note, I shoot wheelies set to 72 pounds... but love my 48# recurve...

Hope that helps!!

[brokerman64]

Thanks again for all the help!
Jason

[reddogge]

It's always beneficial to have a lighter weight bow to start, develope form and strength at first.  Then keep that bow if you move up to heavier poundage later on as a back up, or if you injure yourself, or for working on form and release in the back yard from time to time.