Side plate material (soft) (Welch)

[T Folts]

I have been watching Rick Welch's new video and he talks about side plate material for adjusting your left and right and he says that for a right handed shooter to move the point of impact to the right (I'm hitting left) I need a softer side plate so what material do I go to and are there more than one option for more adjustment. I shoot a longbow cut to center with a hair side plate currently.

Thanks
Terry

[Jim Boettcher]

The fuzzy side of velcro works well, and it's cheap and easy to find. Jim

[McDave]

Rick says the Martin rug arrowplate gives the most movement to the right (for a RH shooter).  He plans to offer it on his website, but I don't see it there yet.  I found it on   this  webpage.

Alternatively, be aware that you can move the shot to the right by tilting your head so your dominant eye is more over the center of the arrow, or by canting the bow more and allowing your head to cant with the bow, which will also move your dominant eye over the arrow.

Rick prefers to adjust the bow, as you do have to remember to tilt your head, which you might forget to do in a pinch.  However, good form is to have your dominant eye over the arrow, and I'm sure if you shoot enough shots that way, it will become second nature.

[T Folts]

McDave
I already cant my bow and tilt my head and have bareshaft set up my bow before I was turned on to Ricks method. So if the soft sideplate doesnt move my arrow over the way I see it would be to go with a weaker spine (longer arrow or more point weight).
Does this sound right.

[McDave]

Keep in mind that if you used to use a finger in the corner of your mouth anchor, and if you now use thumb knuckle touching the earlobe, the rear end of your arrow is further to the right than it was before.  Thus, if you desire to keep your eye over the arrow, you will have to tilt your head slightly more than you did before.

Rick believes all adjustments, to the extent possible, should be made with the bow, and not by the shooter.  Following his method, you should try the Martin rug arrowplate, and if that doesn't give you enough adjustment, you should try a weaker spine.  In fact Rick himself generally uses a weaker spine than recommended.

Far be it from me to argue with Rick, as his method has proven successful for himself and many other people.  I learned how to shoot better from attending his class than I ever thought was possible.  But for me, if my eye is over the arrow, and the arrow is tuned for the bow, it will go where I'm looking, so to that extent, I've altered his method.

[T Folts]

I still anchor split finger with my middle finger in the corner of my mouth. I tried the 3 under but it didnt feel right for me but maybe if I attend his class I will switch then (maybe). I put on a soft side velcro as a side plate and that seemed to move my arrows over but it was getting dark so I didnt have much time to shoot. I will shoot again Monday after work, I also lowered my nocking point and raised my arrow impact. I cant believe how simple it really is to truly shoot instinctive.

[T Folts]

Also, how far back should you stand to set up the elevation ?

[McDave]

Rick's method is to adjust the bow so it hits where you are looking.  I don't think it matters very much where you stand, because he doesn't measure distances anyway.  If you are consistently hitting high at the distances you normally shoot, you can move the nock point up, and vice versa.  If you are hitting high at one distance and low at another distance, it means you haven't learned the trajectory of your bow, and should practice a little more before you begin adjusting things.

[T Folts]

Thanks Dave. I am confident the changes I am making are already helping, especially the shot sequence routine.