Continued split finger shelf wear

[turkeyslayer]

JMO,i have fought these similar problems in the past,& finally figured out what the problem has been for soooooo long & you even eluded (? spelling) to it in your first post.Ive tried every thing you have done from different finger pressure to who knows what.The problem is that i was shooting to stiff of an arrow,i have always been so picky on having the perfect bare shaft & not allowing the arrow to WRAP around the riser the way it needed to,when i finally got that into my thick skull and changed the spine of my arrows (by adding point weight and or shooting longer arrows)all of my problems went away.Its better to have an arrow that is a little weak instead of a little too stiff. Hope this helps.
Good luck Keith

[xtrema312]

Thanks for the post.  I did find I could solve this with a weaker arrow. However, it was weak like half the spine I should need.   I think I was shooting a 30" 500 with about 300 gr. up front with almost a 30” draw and 55#.  It flew bare shaft about 6-8” left all the way there.  The point was heavier than the shaft.  It did shoot decent with feathers once it got down range.  A 15 foot paper shot with feather has about a 6” weak tear.  The only problem is properly spined arrow shot beautifully three under.  I don’t think the arrow should drop over the edge of the shelf regardless of spine with a properly set nock height, but I could be wrong.

[turkeyslayer]

A little weak is good,when i bare shaft tune,i'll shoot at a quarter size dot at about 20 yds,i like my arrows to consistantly group 4-5" low right(right hand canted bow),then my fletched arrows are dead on.

[xtrema312]

I also figured out recently that I was gripping my bows a little low.  I always shot curves with more pronounced grips.  Now I shoot more D/R LB's with low or locator grips.  Even my Firefly has less forced grip location than some of the bows I used to shoot.  Shooting some bows this weekend at Kzoo really showed me the difference again.  Bows like the BW standard curve grip, Tall Tines, and Shrew really forced my hand up tight to the shelf.  I brought that home and started to really force my hand up higher in the grips of my bows.  What a difference!!  That with the more natural pull angle, not trying to force a low elbow low, really makes a difference.  I shot quite a bit yesterday and today.  There is no doubt I have figured it out.  My arrows fly great now, and they are right on for tune.  I made a little tweak on brace height yesterday on one bow and did the same today on the second.  They both really dialed in.  

The slight low grip and forced low pull are why the grip and compensation with the sting fingers yielded positive results on early attempt to solve this problem.  Most likely I let my grip slip down a little with the bow changes.  Then in working on my form changes I made a mistake of forcing string arm vertical alignment.  The two together really caused a lot of problems  That nock height and arrow spine couldn't solve within reasonable adjustment range.