Well you said anyone so here goes.
First pic I think you will do better without that quiver hanging on your arm.
Ok that was probably not much help. Second thought is what kind of bow is that? That looks nice.
I really can't tell a lot from the pic's or video because I am obviously not an expert. However, I do see a little and have had my problems with both issues. So here is what helped me.
On the bow going left, bow torque, I found it helped to get my bow arm extended all the way out. Not locked, but all the way out and elbow turned out. I gained some draw length with that, and it helped my arm not want to fully extend on the shot. Second was to give up on the full grip. I opened up the bottom three fingers. Try to put them with the tips on the face of the bow or back of the bow. I have a 3 pc TD LB and I shoot it best with the three bottom fingers tucked in with the backs on the grip. Try a bunch of stuff shooting blank bail to see what causes the bow to move at the target consistently on the shot.
It is hard to tell on the string arm alignment with the arrow from the side view. From above or high back angle would help me. However, from personal experience there were two causes of the hand moving away from the face. One was short drawing or collapsing. They kind of do the same thing to some extent. If the arm is not in line with the arrow the hand will move out as the arm moves back to alignment and on it moves back at all. The second problem for me was tension in the forearm and or hand. With the upper arm in line and good back tension I can't really pull farther back unless I pull with my hand and or forearm. When I do that I pull the hand away from the face even if the upper arm moves correctly. With the arm in line with the arrow, back tension, relaxed hand and forearm, I can't overdraw because I run out of shoulder blade pinch. On release my hand slides by my face and back or at lest stays on the face. For me recently the cupping of the hand has been the problem.
I hope I don't mess you up too much.